LooseRocks

In the pictures that's almost a dead on match.

Is that color more green like the pictures with the driver's/passenger's door? Or is it more aqua like the smuggler's door?

Those look great.

By that I take it the shop is doing the entire assembly of the short block then.

Did you have to send all your parts (bearings, rods, pistons, pins, rings) to your machinist for the dynamic balancing?

They've been out of stock for some time now. Not sure how much of an "option" it will be going forward. That's always the issue with after market parts for ancient cars. Sometimes companies just stop doing what they do. Hopefully it's just a carona supply chain issue or just waiting on another batch to be built.

Is it possible to operate without the speed input? If you feel that it's not too dangerous, can you try it out and let us know how it feels a various speeds?

Are you using speed input?

That's great. I hate it when kits aren't as complete as they should be. Thanks.

What was the PN for the EPS joint? Where did you purchase it?

Looking forward to this install.

It's not truly smog exempt like the pre '69 cars. It just doesn't have to be smog tested ('75s or earlier). It still has to have OEM equipment. The 71 had EGR and smog pump. But they don't check when you register it. Just don't bring it to the DMV when you register it so they can't look at it (unlikely a DMV guy is going to want to take a peek). But if it ever has to get inspected it will not be legal in CA.

I guess I'll just clean up the plastic neck and see if it will seal with just the clamp. Thanks.

When I removed the tank there seems to be some sort of waxy glue like substance between the plastic filler neck and the metal neck on the tank. Does anybody know what that stuff is? Where I can get some or have advise on a suitable replacement?

I have not explored it but I don't know that you can get from inside the rocker into the rear quarter panel area. And if you could you would have to consider that you're going to need to push a connector through there. The other option is to de-pin the connector to run the wire and then re-body it once it has popped out where it needs to. I'm doing a complete rewire myself and will use the OEM route. It already has metal clips to retain the harness and the harness will be covered by the trim anyways.

What do you mean by "in the cabin"? It sort of already runs in the cabin. The 240z OEM rear chassis harness drops from the upper right foot well area (where the engine bay harness enters) and runs down and along the rockers inside the cabin. A branch goes to the parking brake at the passenger seat cross member. It then goes into the large lower hole in your picture and runs between the fender and the wheel arch. A branch goes to the overhead lamp and window defroster. This runs under the cover that’s above the seat. It pop back into the trunk near the passenger tail-light. It runs behind the panel at the rear of the trunk to the driver's tail light. A branch goes through the trunk for the fuel sender and a dead circuit for a fuel pump in the 240z's case. It ends behind the driver’s rear wheel well at the power antenna. There’s also a branch there for the tiny OEM speaker if equipped. If you’re doing a complete rewire you can do whatever you want.

On the 240, it runs right there just against the rockers. Not inside the rockers. There are metal tabs to hold it against the rockers.

ATP is a Garrett distributor so that’s pretty much all they’ve got. They carry the full line from the most ancient (less expensive) to the latest G-Serides ($TX). Their selection for Garrett is pretty much the complete line. Almost everything comes in T4 and there are some T3. If one of the standard ones is not listed you can assemble your own. You can select just about any super-core and put a T3 or T4 turbine housing with the AR you want on it. I have never done business with them but they seem to have a decent reputation. For a more eclectic selection (Borg Warner, Garrett, Precision, Tial, Turbonetics, …), check out realstreetperformance.com. They don’t carry everything from every turbo supplier but they have a really good selection. I have also not purchased stuff from them but worked with one of their guys on putting together a source for G-Series turbo manifold. The guy I was talking to was a pleasure to work with. In the end it was a no-go but still really nice to work with people who seem to give a crap. If you need something and it’s not on their site but is from a supplier that they use they can probably get it for you.

I noticed that the link you attached for the 2J did not specify if the OEM ECU does or does not have an immobilizer. If you plan on using the OEM ECU, you do NOT want it if it does. It should specifically say that it does not. Something like: https://www.jdmenginebay.com/toyota/jdm-2jzgte-2jzge-motors/5395

Aren't you worried about ground impact with your splitter?

Narration sucks but information is good.

You're overestimating how much force a splitter can generate. Even with a very efficient splitter you're going to be generating very little force compared to the strength of that monster of a front beam you created. Unless you're going to do some crazy front wing like a hill climb car, I doubt you would be able to overcome 1" angle much less something like rollbar tube. You could go with something more flimsy and add support the "wings" of the bumper from the body panels with some of those fancy fasteners for removable body panels. There's a guy on youtube (kyle.engineers). He has some really videos on how much force automotive aerodynamics really generate.

Cal, it looks like he turned the 240z hub and pressed the ring on. The upright also looks like it's 240z. Hey manninen, have you spun it and put a scope on the sensor output? Curious to see if your pickup is seeing the tone ring.

Is that setup up and working?

Cut your spacer to the same oval shape of the foot plate of the brace. Coat the spacer with a little primer and enamel. Put it between the foot plate and the bracket holding the bushing. Even if you run into a little galvanic corrosion it won't be your frame rail. In my raised Outback, I've have 1" think aluminum spacers between the strut top and the body and between the rear suspension stabilizer brace and the body for over 10 years. There's no paint on the spacers. They do sit on the factory paint that comes on the body and braces (shiny black enamel). It's my DD and my snowmobile for skiing. Granted it lives in Norther CA but So far no rust.