randy 77zt

willow springs=hot.kind of like cooling an off road race car.i have run track time at thunderhill at 100+ degree temps ..i would suggest making sure you dont have a bumper in front and maybe a louvered hood.maybe study the results of the wind tunnel experiment.and the oil cooler should not be mounted in front in front of the radiator.my car might over heat on next track day because i mounted a big intercooler in front the radiator-and it has factory a/c.z is kind of short on front end space.

some of the origianl exhaust manifolds had 2 pipes coming out.the original systems bolted to the stock oem manifolds.back in the day the quality on headers wasnt so good and you were better off with not messing with the exhaust manifold.they kind of sounded like old jaguar engines .if you have a 76-78 z you can hang a very big muffler where the cat convertor was.i run a 3" exhaust and have my muffler in the middle of the car.you really only need 2 mandrel bends and some pipe.

i usually just put it in my watch list-and dont bid -why drive the price up?

i get about 25-26 with a 2960 stroker,t3/t4 turbo,intercooler,42 lb injectorstrans is a 82 na trans and 3.7 rear.head is ported and has a huge cam in it

http://www.venus-auto.com -a buddy bought an rb20 from these guys -it runs good

lean running has something to do about swirl in the combustion chamber-newer cars are designed for this.i usually run about 14.3 to 14.7 for freeway.i heard long term lean running is hard on valve seats but everybody has thier own opinions on this.

when i worked as a dealer tech we used to blow them off -great fun.sometimes they will trigger the air bag light if internal resistance is out of spec.that means get a new 1 and 1 for me to blow up.there is a shorting bar in the connector shell to reduce the possability of static charge lighting it off.usually shipped fed-ex.with lots of markings on the package.

a vw would work but probably doesnt make much hp at 2500rpm or so-the fan and tin cools it just fine.nissan used to put a15 engines on forklifts-i drove 1 for a summer job in college.it ran all day in 115 degree heat no problem.if you need more hp or torque my suggestion is a 170 or 200ci ford straight 6.pretty much a tractor engine.

3.55 open out of 2004 explorer .wouldnt be to hard to install for the hard core hybid z member.these were replaced dut to faint hum noise at 45 to 47 mph-would not need repair for use and this has nothing to affect reliability.has a speed sensor on it.if i have to figure out how to ship it will cost money-its to heavy for ups

i pulled up at a stop light on my motorcycle today and a big rig pulled next to me -it had chinese tires on it.i was at napa auto parts and thier sale ad was showing big rig brake drums at $70 each.my point is-how many people are going to have to be killed from chinese junk parts.when the airlines start using chinese tires in thier landing gear?the reason we have a trade deficit is because we buy too much crap from them.but this is going to get political so i will stop now

i changed out a tbi 350 chevy in a 3/4 ton truck with 500,000+ miles on it.truck had a fold down repo rig in the bed and was on the road 12+ hours a day.truck had oil changed once a month.my 96 e 150 van has 177,000 and runs strong -uses 1 quart per 5,000 miles.between efi systems and better oil a car that has oil changes should last 200,000.its usually the auto trans that goes first

24" x 12" buy 3.5

i use turbo 240mm clutch with na 82 280zx trans in my 77 just fine.you might need to custom fab a down pipe-but just stuff the motor and see.a company called atp turbo has a lot of adaptors and pipe fittings to make down pipes.

found this on xo2 racing website-i have 1 of these.it seems to be working good as far as intake temps on datalogging.might be overkill and be causing some turbo lag though but i tend to overbuild sometimes.price is $177.i cut the ends off and had some cast 90's welded on to match the holes in the radiator core support.i paid about $100 -some guy was selling these on ebay 2 years back.some kind of chinese stuff but it works.

i have installed cams advanced on some engines i built for pick up trucks to get better bottem end torque.on l28 turbo if i advance the cam will it spool the turbo sooner?also need good source for adjustable cam gear-1 that is fast&easy.i have a custom cam coming but the problem is i am trying to get the turbo to have v8 like reaction time to throttle input

you will probably find the throttle shafts need to be rebuilt on the carbs.to sync the carbs i use a 3' piece of 5/32 vacuem line you stick 1 end in your ear and the other up to the bottem of the carb slide and listen to the sound of the air rushing through.use a mityvac and check the vacuem diaphram parts(distrubutor advance,air pump divertor valve) for leaks -these are usually ruptured on an old car and makes vacuem leaks.the carbs are really very simple-i had my own shop a few years back the specialized in z's.i built a few 240's with l28 bottem ends and 240 top ends-makes a nice simple car with a 82 or 83 non turbo trans.

i am always a little crude but i like to keep it simple-stick a thermometer in the radiator neck and compare readings?i run 165 thermstat and usually see 175 to 180 on my ms around town.

will some body start importing holden badges-kind of like the infinity g35's running around with skyline badges on them?or the holden front bumper cover?

rx2 was the first usable rotary engined car.kind of low tech besides the engine.your basic front macpherson strut/live axle leaf spring 2 door coupe.but at that time the cars were very fast compared to everything else.if you try to turn the engines over put a little atf in the spark plug holes-or some of that marvel mystery oil.you might want to put some oil in and let it soak then move engine back and forth with a breaker bar on the crank. i would just put a battery on it and hit the starter.

i wrote my kpa numbers from the fuel map down on a piece of paper and converted them with a formula i found on a metric conversion site on the net-there are probably ways to change this on the ms screen but i dont like to play with this too much-it would take to much time to fix a screw up.

my fuel map screen had kpa on 1 axis-my brain doesnt work in kpa so i looked up a conversion formula to convert kpa to vacuem/boost in/hg -psi si i could better understand what i was doing.after that i plugged in my values in my a/f table and turned on the auto tune function-but you need to have your ms wired into a wideband o2 for that.that made the car driveable-i drove it this way for a few monthes but it is not perfect .i damaged some pistons on high boost this way.after building new bottem end i have been working on data logging-.i run a very old laptop with a floppy disc in the car and pull the floppy and download it into megalogviewer program.this program will correct your fuel map.it takes a 20 minute+ log and reworks the fuel map.problem is somewhere i read that you should do this with the autotune turned off-so i need to turn off auto turn and drive again and rerun that log into megalogviewer to see what comes out.i have an old desktop computor on a cart to wheel up to my car -the 17" monitor is easier on my old eyes.some people just look at the datlogs-my come out in excel -and correct the fuel map and test drive again.but the traffiic is too bad and i can only run hard at night.when you drive your car if you take a note of what vacuem readings you get at different rpm ranges you can guess on the af table enough to get the car useable-just be easy on boost.you have to run the car-datalog- adjust fuel map-drive again with a little more boost & log -adjust again.a 14/1 to 15/1 af at freeway speeds will get you very good mpg.i am seeing 25 to 26 at 70 to 80 mph.problem is my datlogging found that i am at 92% duty cycle with 15psi boost and 42lb injectors-time for more money.but calculated hp is at 400.figuring this stuff out took me some time because i am not a computor geek-and i am slightly hobbled by being to cheap to get a good laptop and i dont like working on a laptop.

my fuel map after some datalogging that was processed by megalogviewer.the megalogviewer runs on and old desktop computor i mounted on a service cart.car is a 2960cc stroker,cam,ported n42 head,big ic,440 c injectors,60-1/stage 5 t3 turbo

most of the auto makers went to synth oil for fuel milage-its not as thick.in the last few years the dealerships(ford/gm/chrysler)have seen a large increase in rear axle work.i think that nasty stinky old gl4 90wt will be just fine-how many years did old cars run on this stuff with no problems?we didnt fix many for axles till they started use synth oil when i worked as a dealer tech.but i have to confess i have some ford synth/friction modifier in my r200 lsd-it was chattering on turns with old 90wt.and i use redline mtl in my trans.

any pick&pull-i think there is 1 in hayward at the end of west winton.if you can come over to the valley stockton pick&pull is good

the fuse link block on my 77 always water in it in the winter.it seems there are voltage drops in many places in old z.when i installed my megasquirt i installed an odyssey dry cell in the back of the car.the car interior was dissassembled becuase i wanted a more complete update of the car to insure more reliability.i found this fuse block at local kragen's.i cut the wire harness open and got rid of original hot wire from starter to fuse link box.i cut off the fused circuits and stripped the wire harness tape to pull these wires into the car -you can pull the wires out of the harness and shorten them.i attached new fuse panel next to original fuse panel.the i ran some of that #8 stereo amp wire from the battery to the new fuse block.the 77 needs 4 circuits-the block has 6 .i am using all 6.1 for running laptop and 1 for direct wire/relay to speed up the hvac blower for more a/c cooling.the alternator has a piece of #8 going from output to the starter b+ for charging-in run a zxt alternator with internal regulator.lights and a/c work at night.