randy 77zt

i can never figure out how to do this stuff in the ms files.its probably because i dont use a computor for anything but web surfing.i believe this uses microsoft note pad or somthing?this kind of stuff in the megasquirt has caused me hours of fiddling only to have to get the neighbor from across the street(works in i.t.) to have to do it for me.if you show me how-i will forget it later.my brain just doesnt grasp this kind of stuff very well.i grew up in the days of carburators and bigger hammers.i have a 2 year electronics degree but software drives me nuts.writing a program in binary wasnt my thing-when i was in school it was pre-windows days.

if you are new to ms you have less chance of a blowing up an engine by starting with a naturally aspirated engine.better to practice on the old engine.you can put all pretty much all the same efi stuff on the na engine-just tune it different on the ms.before i went turbo i had a stock 77 motor in my car.i put new injectors,recurved the distributor and did a major tune up-i drag raced some girls in a 94 v8 camaro and beat them good.

3 years ago or so i installed ms with a setup idea used by 1 other member.i put 3 magnets in the back of the flywheel with a cherry hall effect for a rpm pick up.then i used the ms to drive the stock zxt coil ignitor and used stock 81zxt dizzy.after blowing up an engine(my fault)i built a nice new stroker 2960 .after break in i found out during some garage tuning my old dizzy/oil pump drive set up has 4-5 degrees of slop -not good for tuning a turbo engine.time to move up to the 21st century.so i have started by getting my new company laptop to talk to my ms and reflashed the old ms 2.2 to 029y4.then reloaded maps and got the car going again.sourced some chevy ls truck coils from local wrecking yard=$120 for bracket,sub harness,coils as removed from engine.now for the question.i have figured out 2 ways to trigger it.choice #1 -remove the engine -put 2 more magnets in the flywheel to make the hall sensor put out a 6-1 pattern and run waste spark.i use a degree wheel and piston stop to locate the magnets-accuracy is important here.choice #2- leave the engine in and make the 81zxt dizzy into the second trigger.but i am wondering if the slop in the dizzy will show up in the timing output of the ms even though its just a secondary trigger to locate #1 cylinder.i have a sensor in stock to put in the dizzy all ready.choice #3- trigger the new cherry gear tooth sensor i got off of the old 81zxt 90 tooth wheel-just take some teeth out somewhere after i get the sensor mounted-easy enough sinve i have the a/c compressor bracket on and can use the old zxt crank pick up mounting holes to bolt another piece of metal to.i like using the cherry industrial sensors because the appear to be rugged and are easy to mount.i would assume that they put out a decent clean square wave -but i havent scoped 1.never any problems ever in 3 years though.or i could but a 6-1 pattern of magnets in that disc on the back of the 82/83 zxt crank pulley.i am not big on visable added parts though-thats why i like the flwheel trigger-its hidden and uses the least amount of added parts.

the weight of the engine might break the car in half

you cant beat porsche's engineering on the turbo sizing-or having kkk(i guess) building them custom turbos.most people select turbos for a big dyno number when selecting an aftermarkit turbo.in the present car market $30k can get you a very nice 2 year old car with about 30k miles that went for $40k to $60k new.

while trying to be politically correct all i can say is i have seen alot of 4 or 5 year old mercedes with pimp daddy wheels on them lately-and kid seats 2.all big s class.a buddy just got a porsche boxter cheap.its not a straight line screamer but its very fun to drive.if i was buying a fast car i would go with the vette over anything-the older i get the more i like instant torque with out waiting for turbos to spool up.a big hp number on a dyno from a small engine is useless on the street-something with a big v8 will allready have 3 or 4 car lengthes on you

when i installed my ms a few years back i also installed an odessey battery in back.i installed the ms and the relay board on the bulkhead behind the seats.the relay board is directly wired( + and ground) to the battery,the only input from the old z is +key on from the ignition switch.the old z wiring has lots of possable volt drop points.my b+ output from my alternator is wired direct to the battery terminal on the starter-short wire = less wire loss.i used 00 welding cable for the battery .i ran a 00 ground from the battery to 1 of the starter mounting bolts-so the starter has both sides direct wired from the battery.havent had any problems.when i installed ms i i didn want it cobbled to old z wiring.i spent alot of time upgrading the rest of the car.take your alternator to a good shop that can scope the output and check for bad diodes.my only problem with ms is me screwing up the software

that first link might help out with my problem of getting my fancy new company laptop to work with my antique 021s code on my ms.seems version 3 of megatune doesnt list that old code in the configurator.problem with ms-it seems like you have to be a computor it guy or at be able to use windows for more than web surfing.i have 10 thumbs on a computor-and an invisible force field that destroys every 1 i get onto.

i bulit a 3" with a magnaflow straight thru muffler where the cat converter was.used 2 3" 90 mandrel bends .nice sound-not too loud,cant hear it on the freeway except when you get on the throttle.

i would use the factory base with a k&n element and a custom cover-like aluminum plate

there is a company called z therapy that sells parts for the su's.usually dual webers were a kit with 2 downdraft dgv progressive 2bbl with cast 90 degree elbows to bolt on to stock manifold.good for being trouble free but not good for hp use.most of the time the dgv's are jetted lean on the secondary side.i would get some good parts for the su's-i used to put zx bottem ends under early z heads and carbs-if properly tuned(air fluel ratio checked,advance curve on dizzy checked) it was a fast car.

hoov-how is your spanish?you could always get a job overseas defense contracting.i worked in iraq last summer.had to get out of there-it was too boring

i always used to stay up late on sunday nights to watch wrc when speed(now nascar) channel carried it.much better to watch a wrc car get caught in a tree 20' up than watch bubba-car.

go with coil packs-i am taking out the dizzy on my zxt engine because of -+ 5 degree slop in the oil pump drive gears.with 15+ psi boost i need 100% accuracy

i hooked my ms up to the oem zxt coil/power transistor-works good

manual trans-80s or so mustang t5.the main problem with ford vs chevy-it was cylinder head flow.but the after market took care of this problem.

the mercury outboard coils fire every revolution-the motor was 2 stroke.i will be testing the wiring on them soon-i hope the pin configuration is the same as ls chevy .my goal is to use a minimum amount of external wiring.need to goto radio shack for a 555 chip to build a circuit to make a wave form to test the coils.

i have a gm factory 94 firebird camaro manual but would have to find it at my other shop.are you trying to trigger an ms unit with the opti-spark?i would probably just put 4 magnets in the dampener run a hall effect sensor and use the opti-spark for a dumb distributor.but that is fun in ms-there are a million ways to get something to work-i am working on dis ignition for my z right now.

did some reading on msefi.com.ended up on the digikey electronic parts website.since my ms is firing from hall effect sensor off of magnets on flywheel i think i will switch to a cherry ch414-nd hall effect gear tooth sensor -my ms is already working off of a cherry south pole magnet sensor.then run a toothed wheel onthe crank.then will use leds a,b,c to trigger in wasted spark. i like the cherry sensors because they are mounted in a threaded cylinder-its easy to mount.my machinist had some 60 tooth steel wheels laying around-got 1 for free.need a source for ls type ingnitor plugs though?suggestions please

have to ditch the distributor-its got slop in the drive workings and its just not up for my application.i have 6 cop units from a v6 mercury outboard motor.4 pin -looks like it wired like a gm ls type coil.i have an older ms 2.2 running ms&se.from my research it looks likei will have to build some kind of circiut so the ms can read a vr sensor.any results on this?

you guys have me all beat on low temps.left my z out over night behind harrah's in tahoe in winter.but that redline mtl sure shifted nice when very cold

back from iraq-got a job at home when i got home for r&r.probably should have stayed for another 3 monthes though.now i work on street sweepers that caltrans bought from allianz sweeper.i was working at b1/alasad.did not have to travel off base for work.it was very boring.but in the contracting busisness you never know what will happen.if you work and stay on a base all of the time nothing probably will happen.but if you go-outside of the wire -you can become a target.i learned alot about the lifestyle of contracting while in iraq.kind of a goldminer mentality.make $100k+ a year-then spend it on ladies and booze on r&r.just make sure you know what kind of work you will be doing-and where you will be doing it.

only mag i can stand is grassroots motorsports-those tuner mags seem like they are always selling the latest gizmo for a honda.i like mostly tech articles anyway.if you were to dyno test most of the stuff in the tuner mags you will see very little bang-for-your-buck value.i dont care how many play station units some kid has stuffed into his pimped out g35 that his daddy bought

i cut the crimps off of old factory hose and reused the fittings-got new hydraulic hose.used that low(250 psi) aeroquip stuff.just used hose clamps on it-no problems.used a dye grinder and cutting wheel

i am working as a military vehicle mechanic in iraq.worked ford dealerships as a tech for years-there isnt any money in auto repair any more.the pay(in california) hasnt gone up much since the 90s.but the price of everything else has doubled.so after being layed off i took a year off.working in this business is called contracting-you signed up for a 1 year contract.alot of things about it suck but its a great way to pay off bills fast-like my house.no more credit cards.it would be a great way for a uti grad to pay off a student loan and get some good experience.