randy 77zt

i tried installing a new liner and running aluminum wire in my mig(thermalarc 180) the wire wont pass through the liner-it bunches up at the drive motor.i used a spool gun in a welding class i took.it was pretty easy.

last summer i worked for lsi (subbed by kbr) in iraq.i worked on military trucks at al asad/b1.the reason we were a subcontractor to kbr is because kbr couldnt get the job done(as far as properly repairing the vehicles).i lived in kbr camp housing.basically it sucks-but if you have been unemployed for awhile its about the only game around if you want to get caught up on your old bills.lived in a tent for 4 monthes-but i hear thats a problem only at b1.most of the kbr employees seemed like they had easy jobs-the guys in construction basically just supervised tcn's(third country nationals).probelm with kbr is its such a big company they have too many rules about what you can and cant do-and they treat everybody like school kids.all the employess seemed to be pissed all of the time.example-when going thru bahgdad airport they marched us around in a line.kbr has a big overnight transit camp at camp liberty.its worse than any cheap hotel i have ever stayed at -5 guys in bunks in a 20' sea container.if you want to get into military contracting its a good place to start-its like everything else.you have to pay your dues.after being there i found out all the other companies were paying double what i was making as far as mechanics go-itt,osh kosh truck,general dynamics,mantech.the military is getting rid of all the old hummers and changing over to mraps vehicles.navistar just got a contract for mraps maintenance.when i came home on my second r&r a friend hooked me up with a job at home-so i didnt go back after 8 monthes over there.i would have not got the job i have now with out the experience i got over there.try a website called danger jobs .com-i would work for kbr i i could work for somebody else.

when i built my pick&pull ghetto stroker i found a 80something 810 with rods that had 9mm bolts-motor had head removed so i bought the pistons & rods.crank was diesel from pick&pull.pistons were donated by member 510six .they are stock nissan vg30dett.used stock nissan ring set for vg30dett.with n42 head compression ratio is supposed to be 8.2 to 1.engine is turboed.works out to 2960 cc.my machinist bushed the small end of the rods for the floating pins.motor has 2k miles no problems

compression test then do a cylinder leak down test.or you could be getting some oil from an external source(intake manifold gaskit,valve guides)

at least those wheels arent chrome pimp daddy wheels

i have had a ca smog license(expired ) and converted older cars-not with obd2 compliant engines.there is a z in sf bay that is fully legal-i talked to the owner at a z show day.he used the original gas tank-the obd2 motors go thru a gas tank purge cycle .some lsx motors have an electric air pump that is run during warmup.cat converters have to fit the chassis-that o2 sensor after the cat is a cat monitor 02 to check cat functon.its possable but you almost need the whole wrecked car to get all the little parts you might need.the factory service manual from gm will be needed for the wiring.its not impossable-just a lot of work

the problem with l28 vs modern engines is the cylinder head 2 valves vs 4.the only way to make up for this is by more cam shaft duration-and losing drivability.but at a 14.5 af on the freeway i have seen 26 mpg.more could be had with a 6th gear.sequential might make slightly more-but on a hobby car driven on weekends it would take years for a full cost recovery.a question relating to sequential injection-would it be better to boil the fuel into a smokey vapor by by squirting on to the back of a closed intake valve -or injecting during an open intake valve?

around where i live this kind of business practice is usually due to a bad meth habit

if you load the trailer with the the car at the back the trailer will jackknife if you have to panic stop the truck.tongue weight should be 10% of total trailer weight.safest setup is a weight distributing hitch and a trailer with brakes.take a look at travel trailers with load leveling bars hooked up.the trailer with the car on it might weigh more than the truck.best set up for helper springs are air bags-you can change the pressure and not have a bouncing unloaded truck.when i waas in high school my grand father sent me to get a borrowed backhoe with a rental car trailer.i was towiing with a 1/2 ton 4x2 pick up.a traffic light changed and i tried to stop for it.the trailer lifted the rear of the truck off of the ground-i decided to get off the brakes and blow the light.i used lots of side roads and kept the speed down to 25 mph.a friend of mine lost a car off of a trailer when it went into a shimmy at speed because the tongue was too light.best bet is a 3/4 ton truck-but if you rig the nissan correctly it will work.

a buddy hooked me up with a ride in his friends boat .did about 100 miles.this boat will run out to 105mph+.cruises nice at around 90mph.these boats are addicting to drive but turn into a very expensive habit.it got about 85 degrees today-good weather before the crowds come out and it is not safe to have a good time running at high speed.

back in the day i owned a little shade tree repair shop .i specialized in foriegn sports cars because nobody in this area liked to work on them.did a lot of early 280 z cracked exhaust manifolds.they cracked because the gas back in those days (early 80's) had no injector cleaner in it and the exhaust manifolds would run red hot from lean running condition.with some tlc-like some cleaned and tested injectors-that dyno number would be better.i ran a stock 280zxt motor in my 280 for a long time.when it was swapped i installed new injectors and a lot of new parts .the car was a daily driver-at 15 psi boost with a good exhaust the car ran real strong.

try a middle 90's ford ranger that has a 4.0 v6 -they had a very narrow 8.8 rear -usually with 3.55 ratio-or explorers too.

also for emmissions-if you hold the throttle open but kill off the fuel injectors you clear the unburnt hc from the exhaust system.remember when cars had smog pumps?now modern cars use the drive by wire throttles for this.

motor turbo block ,ported n42 head,isky turbo cam,diesel crank,9mm 810 rods bushed on top and bored 1mm.vg30dett pistons-they were free,440cc lucas injectors.megasquirt efi,chinese 240 sx intercooler,60-1 compressor with stock tubine housing machined for stage 5 turbine wheel,innovate wide band ,new fuel line with walbro pump and gm high pressure filter,240 mm flywheel with act street kevlar clutch,82 na trans(better ratios for road courses)3.7 lsd.currently changing to gm lsx coils and headed to the dyno.block was bored 1 mm for the vg pistons-makes 2960cc.all ic piping fabbed at home

after 20+ years working in the auto repair industry i can give you a warning.having custom work done(engine swaps)is not a good idea.why?becuase most shops work from mitchell or chilton flat rate time manual.since there is no flat rate time for custom work the high probablity is you car will be dissassembled-the shop will find out they are in over their heads and they will either keep asking you for more money or you car will sit in a corner of the shop gathering dust-until you either tow it out or pay the shop more money.or if they finish it cheap it will be so botched you will end up redoing a bunch of work because it was just thrown together in a hurry-because they needed to be on some more profitable work.i sed to manage a little shop in hayward back in early 90's.we did project cars sometimes-but only for owners of busniesses that had commercial accounts with us becuase we got some money back from working on that companies trucks.best to do this work your self-or you must be rich enough to afford having a high end shop that does fab and race prep do it right the first time.there are many fly by night shops around that will blow smoke up your a$$ to get some business these days-but i would find customers cars that are actually on the road and ask about the shops work first.

i have a bell housing for a t5 but i didnt keep the trans.i dont like the ratio spread .i use a 82 zx na trans.used to work as a tech at a ford dealer.tried to put a 5.0 mustang trans on the zxt bell housing.no luck-the input bearing retainer on the wc t5 is bigger around-but a little turn on the lathe will fix it.if i ever have excess hp problems i will try to install a wc t5.t5 trans is easy to rebuild.usually just need synchros and bearings.

i think alot of members on here grab some metal,a tape measure,and a welder and go to it

i am guessing but i think that alot of cars use a water tank in back instead of a radiator.like 20 gallons or so.its enough to run the course .no radiator openings at all.the weight over the back wheels helps for traction-its not pavement.i dont think a light car is a big deal in this case.as far as a trans with big od ratio-there is a critical max speed on any driveshaft.i am not into math-but there is calculations for length and diameter.even if its perfectly balenced.i would get a ford 8.8 irs out of a late 90's tbird or lincoln mark 8 and not spin too many revs on the drive shaft-you can get a 2.8 ratio

try a 75 or 76 280 tank if you can find a good 1.

it will work-you just have to set up for time based cranking instead of trigger return.how many teeth are on oem toyota wheel?i just made a 30 tooth wheel out of old 81zxt 90 tooth wheel and tested it with running engine-timing was correct per the map.the thing with ms is read-read-read.i spend more time doing research than i do working on the car.

i am upgrading to chevy ls coils from my current system of using the 81 dizzy and ms firing the stock ignitor/coil.i was triggering from 3 magnets in my flywheel.i could have pulled the engine and put 2 more magnets in the flywheel for a 6-1 pattern but i decided to be lazy and use some parts i had laying around.i ground 60 teeth out of the 81zxt crank trigger wheel.then welded a tab on the a/c idler bracket for the sensor.i left all 30 teeth on and installed the dampner.i put the engine on tdc and found a tooth directly under the sensor so i made that tooth #0.i used the excel file to get my settings and it started first try.i am going to use the old flywheel set up for a tach drive since it puts out 3 pulses per rev.i have tried to break the project down into steps so the work can be checked as i go.

when i was working at b1/al asad iraq last summer the base commander shut down all vehicle traffic on the base becuase of dust storms/ unsafe driving conditions.had to stay in our sea container/break room for lunch.12 hours of nothing to do but eat mre's.mixing them to get something better is an art form.good thing the rent-a-cans were pumped twice a day.i kept some of ther main dish packets (the snacks were always raided first) for dinner in my cube when i didnt fell like taking the time to goto the defac(chow hall ) for dinner.i usually skipped dinner anyway-i ate a full lunch and breakfast.the mre's would be good to pack on my dirt bike when i goto baja for a week ride.

the car should be on a flat slab with the jack stands in the same spot each side so the car isnt welded up with a twist in it-easy way to check is by checking your door gaps.

i was in sydney last summer for 2 weeks and was checking out the holden pick-up.basically just the car with a bed on it.it really reminded me of the old chevy el camino with lsx power -complete with the 6 speed manual trans.you can buy those with no box and a bare rear chassis-there were alot of them around with aluminum commercial beds on them.a very fast dirt bike hauler.there were very few american style pick-up trucks there-itwas either buy a holden or a ford -like a ford ranchero.or go to a commercial 1.5 ton truck like a isuzu on nissan mini cab over.2004 to 2006 gto is on my short list of newer cars i would like to have-if i could afford 1

they should kill off buick,gmc,hummer instead