randy 77zt

to bad rb30/rb25 setup wasnt so hard to get here in usa-the old l28 2 valve head is what slows l28 based motors dowm.

i have my track tires on old enkei wheels from pick&pull.i have spares for these but not a full second set.so i would get a new set of wheels for the street.the brake pad material comes out of the brakes and burns itself into the wheel coating anyway.

how hard do you want to work-how dirty can you stand to be?the local pick&pull is where i score my parts.i paid $200 for my diesel crank but that was in a short block that i had an apprentice pull and bring to the dealership where i worked as a tech.the apprentice made $80 for the pull job but to me it was worth not rolling on the ground at p&p.i stripped the crank out at work and avoided the greasy mess at my house.my l24 rods were pulled by my-i found a 810 with head allready pulled so i pulled the pan and got the pistons &rods.my pistons are 87mm vg30dett donated from member 510six.my machinest bushed the rods -the vg pins are 1mm bigger.my machinest bushed the rods,bored out 1 of my l28et blocks,balenced it,hottanked it ,assembled short block for $500 cash.so i probably got $1000 or $1200 in a 3l short block.if you just throw out your credit card somebody will be there for you.if you can load up tools and go out to local pick&pull you can save money.its all up to you.

high side pressure probably got too high-if you dont have a good fan or enough air through the condensor the high side will go too high.

i have an 8.8 irs diff assembly out of a 2004 explorer for free if anybody wants it-its a 3.55 open unit-but you have to pay for shipping-send me pm

my car is in pic #1-i did not enter it in the show-i call it my r&d car because its been getting alot of engine work done lately .getting about 900 miles on megasquirt powered 3.0 stroker engine.was doing some data logging-trying to get the engine dailed in for an open track day.i think my a/c needs another can of r12 though.

the reply was from some kid that was masterbating into japanese tuner mags

carbs-some of the newer carbs with removable air bleeds and other parts would let you tune all the rpm ranges.if you installed some kind of wide band o2 to log it then you would know what direction to go with jet adjustments.i can probably change jets faster than hooking up the laptop and fiddling my ms-i am a hammer jockey with software but have been working hard the last few days.i have been lusting for v8 torque-my l28et doesnt have enough bottem end torque.the air flow capability with the carb mainfold is probably more.

you will need more fuel to make it go.back in the day i used to work on vw diesel rabbits with mechanical injection.the local diesel injection pump shop will be your friend-they have machinery to dyno the pump and the injectors.they can change the nozzles on the injectors.plus a good exhaust temp gauge.probably a standard 280zxt turbo would work-but it wouldnt spool soon enough-a small garrett t25 might work.

after about 20 or 30 hours of work becuase of my lack of knowledge about computors(i usually only use them for web surfing)i finally got a corrected ve table from megalogviewer.it took 3 computors to get this done-because i am to cheap to get a good laptop.motor is a 2960 stroker made from pick&pull parts.earlier test drives with full throttle made the motor ping on 91 cali gas .tank was down to about 2 gallons so i dumped in a 5 gallon can sunoco 260 gt+ and went for a pedal to the metal death ride in the country at 12 am.injectors are 42lb/hr.the good gas killed the ping with 24 btdc under boost.i went on rc engineering website and got a computed hp of 386 with 92% duty cycle.the cam is some calcam regrind rescued from p&p.its .525 lift 111 lobe center unknown duration.head is n42 ported.intercooler is huge-80 degree intake temps at night.plans are for a good turbo cam-the cam that is in it doesnt spool the turbo up soon .extrude honed exhaust manifold and bigger injectors.

i been running the innovate xd16 kit (lc1 controller ,xd1 gauge) for over a year -i like it.i mounted the gauge on double stick velcro between the tach and speedo.the gauge always reads just what the megatune reads.now i get reminded how much i need to tune this thing-but at least it runs at 14.2-14.4 on the freeway and it gets good mpg.the lc-1 is running my ms on autotune function.

i have been running my car(old v.2.2 ms o21s )on the auto tune .the innovate lc1 is the input and i just wrote on the desired values on the af screen.i have the xd1 gauge running at the same time so i can watch what the ms is doing while driving.the autotune wont correct if you are way off on you fuel map valuesbut it does allow you to drive a poorly tuned car .it just seems like autotune is too slow.the megalogviewer and mstweek are supposed to generate new maps from your datlogs but i think this user is having some software problems and i will work on it some more.at tihis time i would be happy to get 1 of these programs to generate improved maps from my datalogs.part of the problem is me not wanting to buy a better lap top.

on my car there was an untapped boss on tstat housing-i drilled it and tapped it for the gm sensor.tap is pipe thread-buy it at osh,lowes.megasquirt is about build it yourself-get ready with the welder,taps,drill press,cutoff saw,soldering iron-mucho tools

on a 75 the gauges are wired separate from efi wiring-you need to track your wiring down to memorize its functions.on my 77 there is a 5 wire connector that i used to get the key+ signal and the fuel pump is on that connector.i replaced all nissan oem efi wiring with new homemade harness and new plugs for injectors and sensors.all connections soldered and shrink tubed.the connector with key+ is located under steering column-it tied into oem ecm.the 240sx tps-i tore apart an oem 280z tps and made an adaptor plate from the back plate-i drilled and bolted the 240sx tps to the back plate of the 280z tps.i got a pigtail for the connector from pick&pull.my ms and relay box are located on the bulkhead behind the seats-less water there and easy access .

if rebello quoted $800 for that he must have been in a good mood that day.engine probably just needs a bottle brush hone and some rings and bearings if it was sitting for awhile.

himself-your in sac?if you come down to modesto i can show you some things on my 77 turbo.ms is a lot of work-to support the ms i rebuilt my fuel supply system,moved the battery(gell cell in back).most of the vacuem lines and junk on the motor gets tossed.best to use n42 intake.i have 2 years degree in electronics,ase master certified auto technician and find ms kind of a pain but i didnt want to spend the bucks for a manufactured system.but running back and forth reading web pages to figure out problems vs.having the info shipped with the ecm gets tiring-assuming the tech info shipped with a maunfactured ecm is correct.you will need some kind of wide band o2 system to get it tuned correctly.next is to figure out how work the ms config files.i am not a soft ware genius so working with these files took me many hours to figure out.the wiring is easy-throw out old nissan junk and start over.at this time i am trying to get the megalog viewer program to work so that it generates a corrected fuel map.the datalogs are spit out in excel-not user friendly for a non computor geek.my car runs as a daily driver but it is in a tuning stage at this time.

i run ms&s and trigger my ignition with the oem zxt transistor and coil.i connected the transistor to the fidle wire-i have an old ms unit v2.2.but newer 3.0 ms has onboard power transistor.make sure it is wired correctly the check the config file.

you have something else going on-when i had stock l23et in my 77 it wouldnt idle after washing the motor-it was water in tp switch connector.the old nissan efi takes some work to keep it running consistant

i have down loaded megalogviewer and mstweek3000.both dont seem very user friendly to me-just want to find out what members are doing to tune thier ms units.

interesting-i am still playing with old ms 2.2 but i would like to go cop ignition on my l28et without all the edis stuff.i have 6 cop units from 300hp merc outboard that have onboard transistors-looks kind of like chevy lsx cop units.these units fire at 6000+ rpm on a 2 stroke.will be upgrading some day.will have to read on cid #1 input or code wheel for ms 2 to sync it for dis ignition.

in some areas that dont meet federal air standards cars have to be smogged-and they are just as strict as california.reno and denver are such places.some places only look at emissions though-if you can make it better with aftermarket parts they allow them.

trying to find the horsepower.i havent used these programs until tonight.got some bugs fixed on my laptop to get it to read my ms.

20 year flat rate auto technician but i suck with moving files around and other normal windows functions.since i have worked flat rate for many years my blood pressure raises quickly when i cant kill it with a hammer or the ingersoll rand impact gun.so i wouldnt mine paying somebody to come over for a day-or trade for some parts.just built new motor -it has about 600 miles on it.i blew the last 1 up running a rough tune.i dont want to mess this 1 up

on my car i ran #10 wire from alternator directly to battery cable at starter terminal.it seems like old z's have voltage drops in many places.

look up z therapy for carb kits and throttle shaft kits.make sure any vacuem diaphragm operated parts(distributor advance,smog pump diverter valve)and leaking internally-think hole in diaphragm.check distributor for wear and advance curve.the idea is to get the car operating in as new condition.many things can be wrong in older car.