randy 77zt

i must have made a lucky guess at pick&pull when i got those rods-its alot of work getting parts that way.but i found an 810 with the head off so pulled the pan and pushed the pistons out .i think i paid about $100 for 6 pistons and rods-pick&pull always has this ridiculus core charge.i collect parts from pick&pull-kind of like a wine collection for nissan freaks.

2 years ago i spent the day at westech in socal with a friend watching his new bbc boat engine get dynoed.steve(the dyno operator)had many great stories to tell about dyno failures.even showed us a dent in the dyno room door.i am not in that kind of income tax bracket to have my engines dynoed but being a gearhead i always wanted to check out a good day of dyno work.after that i figured out that a mega-dollar engine should probably have a dyno day before install-you will make back the money spent on the dyno in savings by not blowing up the new motor trying to run wfo on a poor tune.plus the days of work and downtime .

this post could break the no politics rule very easy but maybe we should try to figure out ways of improving the government.it doesnt seem like the common person is represented anymore-i will leave it at that.

i have pulled 25-26 mpg on freeway with my l28et 77z.thats with a megasquirt run from a innovate motorsports wide band set up.along time ago before the turbo engine i did a major tune up on the old l28.new injectors ,removed smog junk and built a recurved distributor-can was kind of fast that way and drove very well.its all in the tuning.freeway i run 14.3-14.5 af with about 35 degrees advance.

thats a euro balence tube-i think courtesy nissan sells those-but anything new wont be cheap.if you find a balence tube minus egr you can plug up excess ports with brass plugs-all are standard pipe thread.try local hardware store.

rebello bores the stock su's-i have been at thunderhill running against a z with rebello stroker and su's-it ran even with my stock 81 turbo powered 77.i would guess to say that 2 bored out su would flow more than 500 cfm.if i was going to run carbs on a z it would be su.

i used a turbo specific fel-pro with arp studs-no problem.a piston broke first-was running 18+ psi boost .but i use a air grinder with 3m rotory prep pad to make sure the block is clean.the head had a .005 cut.aways use a straight edge to check the head.

i checked my 810 rods-the bolts are 9mm but neck down to 8.25 mm on the rod cap end.not a problem -i will change to arp bolts anyway.crank bearing is stock size.i am boring the small ends 1mm because i got a free set of vg30dett pistons and i am building a 2960 stroker for a turbo engine

anybody try this on l28et manifold?it would seem to be able to get to places you couldnt reach by hand.i have to remove my engine-it cracked a piston on too much boost.will be installing stroker bottem end -i think i will get it all done.

i got mine from later model 810-much more common in local pick&pulls

i am building stroker l28 out of pick&pull parts.crank is standard size but nissan shows select fit bearings.how do you get correct bearings?or just use aftermarkit bearings?most people seem to prefer oem nissan bearings.

i just use some liquid wrench and a small chisel-to tap it around to spin it out.

on my boat first i get it wet with hot water.then i spray on simple green.then scrub with one of those wood handle bristle brushes.then i rinse it off with a sponge dipped and rinsed out in a bucket of hot water.you dont use lots of water -just get the surface wet.wipe it dry and let air dry.then put on leather dressing.

resistor is 2.2k.this might not be correct set up for msd.the relay is a standard bosch relay.fidle=fast idle.on ms version 2.2 you could use this circuit for either idle control or spark control-that version could not do both.i have heard version 3.0 will do both.print a diagram of relay board from msefi and study it.there is a tiny metal jumper just to the right of idle relay in the pick-that has to be set correctly.

just an example-this is set up for running oem zxt coil/power transistor off of fidle wire.resistor is pull-up resistor.

having started with alot of l28 turbo parts led me dowm the turbo l28 path.but if i built another z it would be v8-there is no replacment for instant tire frying torque.its much easier to get the jump on a car with torque.

diesel has mechanical fuel injection-there is a solonoid valve on the injection pump that turns the fuel on and off with the key.diesel would only take about an hour to wire up.

my car is a 77.i run 81-83zxt alternator.you have to figure out 2 wires at old regulator-extend them to alternator.1 wire is the field and 1 trips that little red charge led in the volt meter.but when i installed my ms i put an odessey 950a drycell in the back with new home built cables.the ms is mounted to the bulkhead behind the seat.the wires to ms are very short and ms relay board is wired directly to the battery-gorund and +.there is a ground and + wire running to the starter-both #2 welding cable.the + from the alternator runs directly to the battery cable connection on the starter.

i bought my ms/relay board/stim combo from diy.no problem on the ms but i think the relay board might have a cold solder joint-it wont fire the fuel pump unless you slightly wiggle the relay.

i have the oem nissan 81zxt supplement manual-not needed since i went to megasquirt.might be for sale

on my turbo engine i use 240mm act street disc and pressure plate-it hasnt slipped under high boost conditions but engine broke a piston on dyno day.for a long time i used a stock daiken clutch kit.daiken was oem supplier to nissan.i got the kit at one of those 1 day clutch shops.it worked good but wouldnt hold the motor on the dyno.it cut loose and overheated but came back after cool off with no ill effects.if i was running under 200 rwhp i would just get a good oem style NEW clutch.no kragen rebuilt junk.

i use a 81-83 internally regulated alternator-i modded the wiring.try running with alternator disconected

i used to install these years ago-if you are really serious about set up the way to go is to get some kind of wide band a/f gauge system installed -you will use this on any engine you install in the car.i use innovate motor sports set up-thier website is very educational.73 240 and 74 260 had crappy flat top su's.goto twm website-i think they make a efi throttle body-injector to go on su manifold.also check distributor function-total advance curve.alot of old z's have locked up advance from worn parts.

scam bay-i listed my boat for sale with them and a week later some other @#$%head had my boat listed for sale again with my pics.i bid on a bmw r1200gs motorcycle and i missed it but i got 4 last chance offers from 4 different emails.then i bid on a honda s2000-it was supposed to be at a dealer in az-called the dealer up and they had the car but never heard of the guy that placed the ad on ebay and told me they never sold cars on ebay. i just sold a pipe that i didnt use anymore for my motorcycle but i sold it on a motorcycle website -not ebay.i just went through a hassle with ebay about my account being hijacked.i have only bought 2 things on ebay-but have met nothing but scams when trying to deal on there.