randy 77zt

thanks for info-i bought a preasembled megasquirt and i am installing it into my 77z/81zxt .i dont know if i am going to use 81zxt stuff or buy new hall sensor and trigger off of flywheel like xander.i found info on the circuit using gm 4 pin hei module to output correct rpm signal for megasquirt.i have 2 of the 81zxt cas sensor units.

summit catalog has some gizmos that plug into o2 sensor plugs that put out a correct signal to keep ecm happy.made by caspers electronics.guys use these on mustangs &camaros,vettes with the (off road) exhaust systems.if you have a obd2 reader you can check the output of the rear 02 sensors.if you feed that to ecm you will fool it into thinking cats are installed.i think its easier to avoid the radio shack thing and just buy the caspers part.

would like to try a 3.1/3.2 l l28 with high compression,good ported head,cam, a good aftermarkit efi system..the thought of getting rid of all that turbo plumbing sounds good.a friend of mine has a 260 with a 3.1 rebello motor with bored su's-i can pull him close to exit of corner but when his car winds up it pulls hard.i have a 77 with stock 280zxt power.

turbo is a t4 60-1/t3 stage 5 on a stock manifold.was running it oem nissan 280zxt efi system.a waste of time.updating to megasquirt with large intercooler and 42lb injectors.

maybe if the head was used for mold making purposes after it was put together?i dont know much about casting.has anybody tried a rb headgaskit on l28 block?

there is an adjustment on the air flow meter to lean it out -you will have to do this while connected to the machine.

i have a thermalarc 180 amp mig-if i dont use it much i have to weld on some scrap before i weld.i like welding thick stuff better than auto bodies.i converted an old boat trailer in a trailer for my z-that old iron welds easy.

this would probably fool the smog techs in comifornia-they dont check to see if ecm is oem.if you do a very good job of tuning the megasquirt and run a high flow cat and have egr hooked up -it will probably blow numbers like a late model car with obd2.just remember that extra hc out the tail pipe is money you spent on gas that didnt get burned.the cat's job is to burn up any unburnt hc that the engine missed.the egr system gets rid of oxides of nitrogen.this is caused by high combustion chamber temps.temps can be lowered by ign timing or introduction of inert gas(exhaust) or a combo of both.trying to get oem nissan efi system to pass smog is a hassle.how good can 20+ year old parts be.

pull a spark plug and see if it is fuel fouled.

i dont think 20mpg-the problem with a truck is aerodynamics.i think the 6th in the t56 will be to high unless you have a 4.10 or better rear gear.late model corvettes get 25+ mpg on cruise conditions but it slides through the air.chevy makes a 383 box motor designed for truck replacement engine.the t56 might work with a 4.56 rear gear.you would have to drive it with a vacuem gauge.use the tpi manifold with a some kind of tunable efi and a wide band o2.my 96 ford half ton van with 351 gets between 14 and 15 mpg towing my car on a very light 1 axle trailer.i am happy with that.you dont have the crappy oxygenated gas that commifornia has.

t5 are easy to build-buy the parts and find a good local guy to do it.i build my own trans.

if you dont drag race and use the clutch properly(apply power after releasing clutch)the na trans is fine.i use a 82 na trans behind my turbo motor.82-83 na trans has best ratios for sports car type driving and best 5th gear for freeway.if you look at a ratio chart you will see that early (75-78) z 5 speeds had a big gap between 2d & 3rd and 5th wasnt much of an od gear vs 82/83 na trans.i like the na trans because it shifts smooth with redline mtl in it-has a good precise click-click but not heavy.car has been used for driver schools on tracks -laguna,sears point.i have a 82 zxt t5 bellhousing .i tried to bolt a wc t5 to it but it will take some machining-it wont bolt together.since i am beefing up my hp with new engine and efi system i will find out if the trans can take 350 or so hp.i think it will work if i dont drag race.its shock loading that destroys parts.

i quit going to nasa events in norcal because of not getting my money's worth of track time.a lot of smaller clubs popped up that usually only have 50 or 60 cars .much better.

to bad there isnt a website that tells where they are at.i have my car registered in the mountains.but if they opened my hood i would be screwed.one day about 4 years ago i called in sick and went to chiropractor .i drove my van that day.i found those guys doing roadside testing here in central ca.since i have a smog license i stopped to get a little info from the boss.the state of california sent those guys up here from riverside(400 miles away) and was putting them up in motels.your tax dollars at work.this was a weekday during normal working hours.since i registered my car in the mountains i got a jury duty summons up there though.i will have to drive 60 miles for jury duty.will have to take my motorcycle.problem with this is if chp officer wants to get technical he can write up an old (75 down) car for missing smog gear even though it doesnt have to have bi-annual smog inspection.IF you are nice to him and your hot rod isnt smoking or running rich(you tuned with wide band o2 right?) he might let you go.if his wife wouldnt put out last night your screwed.

went on megasquirt website-found a very good chart for hp vs injector size.got some 42 lb lucas disc injectors for 300 for a set.those mototron/siemans injectors are high impedance for your info if you ever need to buy any.ended up reading megasquirt website for about 3 hours last night.in a month or 2 i will know how much hp a stock l28et will make with proper airflow and fuel.

if possable keep it registered in iowa.if you try to register it in ca it will be a major hassle.i have a 77z with a turbo engine in it and have a california smog license.car will have to have all the zxt smog gear hooked up and operative and pass a sniffer test at a referee station.then they issue a sticker to put in the door jamb certifying the swap.plus car insurence is $ here.every 2 years car has to have smog inspection and it will be at a test only station.best advice is to stay out of california.

most newer cars have the pump hanging off of the fuel sender with a sock on the bottem to strain the fuel.pump and tank are installed as an assembly -its faster at the factory .hoses have snap on connectors and 1 plug for the wiring.older cars like 75 up z with efi had an EXTERNAL pump mounted to the body of the car with a hose feeding the pump.pump had to be mounted low so it would pick up fuel.i am installing a walbro gsl392 external inline pump on my 77 z.the threads on the walbro pump require you to buy adaptor fittings.i am running a 12mm hose barb on the inlet and a adaptor for 6an hose on the outlet side.i am building a custom fuel rail with an fittings.fuel system pressure side will be 6an or equal to 3/8 line.i have heard 5/16 line is good for up to 400hp at 40 psi so the 6an should not ever be maxed out with a l28 motor.

have a megasquirt coming-will car idle with 60lb injectors.goto mototron.com for info on injectors.i am going to use o-ring injectors.i am building a fuel rail for them on my drill press.have a 60-1/stage5 turbo and big intercooler.there is a guy selling them on ebay assembled.anybody try one of these/there are also ford 42lb injectors around cheap-like $300 for 8.

you cant tell me its that fresh that is was made with todays $55 a drum oil?spot price on wholesale market on cnbc was $1.50.so you add in taxes and profit.i guess i will be riding my motorcycle alot.

up to $50,000-i dont think so.go to moonlight bunny ranch website -more famous porn stars there.maybe some of you married guys could do a threesome with her.

a company called street&performance makes an adaptor fitting kit to put an fittings on lt1 fuel rail and return off of fuel pressure regulator.

got a naked bike-yamaha fz1.had to put ivan's jet kit and a pipe on it to make it healthy though.stock it would lean surge at 55 mph in 6th.it dynoed at 130 hp .since it was $3000 less than an r1 and i dont like riding bent over i am happy.stock tires not good.got metzler z6 on both ends-very good tires.then i put on a -1 tooth front sprocket.loosened up the suspension some because the roads around here arent smooth.bike works great now.got it for $7200 + tax & license new.

i put her in my watch list on ebay-i bet the bidding goes real high at the last minute.

my brakes-toy 4x4 with modern motorsports spacers and 84 300zx rotors drilled with porterfieild r4 pads.rear-84 300 zx rear rotors with design products billet brackits and willwood 2 piston calipers.porterfield r4s pads.no park brake.have a willwood proportion valve mounted next to shifter.master ylinder is stock 7/8.i run ford brake fluid.car has been on laguna seca,sears point,thunderhill with no problems.i dont baby the car either.i dont run the porterfiled r4 pads on the street though-i change to a regular type of replacement pad for better cold braking and longer life.the r4 front pads last about 3 days (6 hours) of track time.the brake line are all earl's.the rear kit was cool-cut backing plate off with a torch(i was going to pull the stub axles out) and bolt the kit on.

things to try-a 2mm head gaskit and a 160 thermostat.watch the advance curve/distributor set up.use a vacuem advance so it dumps some timing off when you hit the gas.