emeraldlion

Yeah just mildly. But he asked if you could swap in a 302 and if the rear diff could handle the power so I couldn't resist. Like I said I will never turn down direction. I'll check mongo's threads and message him. Thanks again.

Wow, and I had a new guy jump on me and call me sarcastic. Thanks for the direction Paul but not exactly what I meant. You're right I wasn't specific enough. An auto xmember and 2.25 flange. Maybe it is ridiculous of me to think that a member may have pieces they didn't use. I always appreciate help and suggestions though.

Just Doo it. Then let us know how it turns out

Looking to buy a JTR trans crossmember or something similar to it as well as the diff flange if anyone has one sitting around.

You're telling me. Half my 62 vw van is bondoglass and bondohair, lol. That is going to be one sexy behind in no time. I'm hoping mine will be as presentable in the next couple of months. I'm currently in the process of removing my duckbill/bumper lip.

Looking good. I have to admit I don't much care for the 2+2 but yours brings the stock up a point in my book. Great looking color scheme. Swap looks like it's progressing well. Good luck getting her finished. Make sure you post a classic youtube vid with camera on ground behind exhaust muffler while you walk around and rev(j/k).

There are some that may be MORE sarcastic than I am. If it was something that hasn't been gone over hundreds of times in threads already it may have been different.

I agree and as such I should have started there. Going to go try and get my head screwed on right, will be back tomorrow hopefully slightly more on course.

225/50/15- I'm a fan of sidewall and white lettering(all hail the cooper cobra) 1st gen camaro or mustang?

alright I guess I just don't understand what I'm saying that is so off charts. I have always understood that a larger turbo pushing 20psi will create more power than a small turbo pushing 20 psi. I have also been brought to understand that more power creates more strain or wear on engine parts and that's what I was referring to. If that's incorrect I apologize. I didn't think about the heat issue. Again I'm SORRY if this has caused any misinformation.

I was hoping to go with the big block but after much consideration I think the small block will work better. start with a 360 block most likely and pair it to the a518. As far as I've read sanderson makes a block hugger header for the mopar as well. You're right the go fast parts may be cheaper for the chevy. But as for strictly the conversion this engine drops in and bolts onto the stock datsun towers. You can use the JTR crossmember and the chevy trans mount bolts to the a518. Using a mopar driveshaft from a518 car and the JTR r200 flange adapter, that only leaves the wiring. I may have to use aftermarket gauges but oh well.

Sorry it was kinda worded poorly. I was referring to the fact that the power created by the same 20psi is going to differ and the strain on the physical engine from power levels will be less. At the time my mind wasn't even thinking about the heat generated by the turbo when it should be the biggest consideration. Sorry

Wow. Did you bother to read ANY of the faq section or stickies? Ok. Welcome to the forum. Your swap has been done many times, and yes the rear end can handle fairly stock levels of power. I would next like to direct you to the WONDERFUL FAQ forum section. IT has threads for pretty much everything you might need. Searching the subforum of the ford v8 section will get you all you need. There are a few personal websites built by individuals who did the ford swap. There is a member who makes the mount cradle for the SBF. You will be much better received here if you do your own research first and then come back with half a clue and begin asking questions pertinent to specific issues you may be having.

Yeah pretty much follow the jtr recommendations the engine is going to be a hair forward and the a518 is several inches longer so we'll see how it works out. I'll be using the JTR tranny crossmember and chevy tranny mounts because they actually fit the a518. So far I'm not seeing why more people haven't done this. I'm hoping I'm not in for some huge suprise hurdle when I start to drop the combo in

I was planning on not filling the holes for the tow hook or the bumper connector on the side fender and just putting in chromed alan headed bolts as place holders. It isn't the smoothest but it doesn't look bad. Did it in a volkswagen I had will try to find the picture. I wanted to do this so if I ever sold it the next owner would have choice of putting a bumper on if wanted.

So here's the thing about boost and why you can't just ask "can it handle xpsi of boost" It's not the boost that kills the engine it's the power level and the presence of detonation that will kill your engine. If you build a solid 8:1 CR engine and have excellent tuning with an intercooler and a quality turbo you should be able to make more than enough horsepower reliably I edited this post to remove a statement that as stated was inaccurate(sorry everyone)

I'm starting to find out very few frequent this side of the v8 swap and I might be mostly on my own.

So the few quality threads there are on the mopar swap seem to have the concensus that utilizing the stock block adapter and mopar biscuit mount place the block fairly close to the firewall, maybe not JTR sbc close but near it. My next concern was vertical positioning of the block in the bay. I found a post by a member who had started this swap and it shows two different mounting ears to connect to block. If you consider the fact that the mopar rubber biscuit allows for some minor y axis swivel and offset plus minor slotting of mounting holes similar to slotting datsun tower per JTR you might be able to create some optimal mounting. Based on these two it appears as if you could save an inch or so by utilizing the car mount but it creates a horizontal offset. Do you think this will help? I'd prefer to not have to run a cowl hood if possible or at least as small of a cowl as possible. The reason I'd like to go with the big block is the larger bore and stronger block, let's face it for future mods there is no replacement. Once I get these small issues ironed out be expecting a full mopar swap thread in the project section

Functional or no I like the look.

Beautiful. Thanks Deja. This was the only hitch in the mopar swap that I hadn't figured out. The only one left is I'm not exactly sure where to clerance the tunnel because of different dimensions between a518 and 700r4 but that's just a matter of trial and error when dropping engine.

So I'm venturing into an area I haven't dealt with much being ujoints driveshafts etc. Planning on bolting in mopar power and I was wondering if I can use the mopar driveshaft (shortened) and buy a ujoint that will attach to the datsun driveshaft flange that JTR sells to bolt up to the r200. Looked on summit and wasn't sure. Was hoping you guys might shed some insight.

Wow those are some INTENSE flares. Car looks great! good job

^HAHA! That's exactly what I was thinking. I just would not want the idea of them pointing and making sarcastic comments in my mind at that moment.

Definitely not. Although I did see a porsche flat six in a 60's volkswagen van though. Started off horizontally opposed and porsche designed engine, but the 3. whatever was definitely an upgrade.

I was just looking at those and thinking Man that would make for a cheap turbo swap, but I think I'll stay v8. Plus all the way in mckinney and it would have been a drive. Congrats on stealing those