A to Z

11-10-2024 Turbo project update. I started on the interior, mounting the relay and boost pressure switch for the Snow Performance Water/Methanol injection, and then went ahead and removed the 432R stereo delete plate, and re-routed the wires for my A/F ratio gauge down to that area. I bought a 3 gauge pod panel from Milkfab Engineering to go in there. I will house my AEM A/F ratio gauge, my AEM boost gauge, and my J&S engine knock/ignition retard gauge. AFter that I went and started on the Crown intake plate. I decided to prep the piece for polishing by removing all the fins and stuff so it is smooth, and then I drilled and tapped for the Water/Methanol spray jets. Yeah, the holes aren't perfectly aligned...I double measured, dang......but I can make it look good once installed. I also worked on the aluminum block that mounts the carburetor to the turbo. I can't believe how rough cast it was inside the bore area. I can't believe the previous owner mounted it and used it like that. I went ahead and cleaned it up. So those 2 pieces are going to J&S Polishing in Colorado Springs in a day or two and will be a thing of beauty when I get them back. I have attached pics, and added a pic from Milkfab of a 280Z gauge pod with gauges, as they didn't have a 240Z pic, and the other pic is also from them, to get an idea. Thanks!

11-08-2023 Turbo Project Update: My Turbo it's a "Turbone M12" and my turbo oil lines arrived today, and I laid out the Snow Performance Water/Methanol injection Stage 1 kit today, and got it "sorted". Awaiting more parts. See attached pics.

"it's the Russians"

Thanks mate.

Performance Parts - Vintage Performance Developments

11-06-2024 Turbo project update: I have decided to not use the SU carburetor....I am switching to the Mikuni HSR 45mm carb. It's a motorcycle carb, and some of you have seen how guys use multiple ones instead of sidedraft carbs. I reached out to John at V Performance, and he is going to build and prep one for my setup. NO BUTTERFLIES! Butterflies in a draw through turbo cause a real vacuum problem, and is terribly hard on turbochargers, especially the seals. For years, guys have been adding "carbon seals" to combat this issue...this should combat the issue, and it has the benefits of having an accelerator pump, it's a true 45mm bore all teh way through and many other benefits. Here is an excerpt from a Corvair Forum from guys using it on their draw through Turbo Corvairs: Mikuni HSR carbs were last used in O.E. applications on Harley motorcycles and also Yamaha's. kmart356 over at Corvair Center has been a pioneer in using this carburetor, and he worked with the folks at Vintage Performance to make it happen! Slide carbs have always been a better carb than butterfly types because the fuel air ratio can track the actual airflow over a wide range of throttle openings and flow much more air for their size than a butterfly type can. They have a natural variable venturi as opposed to a fixed venturi and variable area like butterfly types. Also, because of the slide movement, area is gained in a proportional way instead of a wild magnetic hysterisis type curve that is typical of a butterfly opening. They were the last carburetors used in F1 before going to fuel injection!! Perhaps these would have been used in automotive applications more often long ago, but the big bugger in the old days was that the only other application for them were small displacement motorcycles and those did not need accelerator pumps so they didnt have them! The HSR's do have accelerator pumps and do lend themselves to automotive use. The HSR45 is an ideal fit for use on the F-flow Corvair Turbo, as it is nearly the same size as the turbo inlet!

Features: -High Quality Material, Cast Housing with Durable Steel -Boost Engine Horsepower Significantly -Increase Engine Power and Torque Outpout; -Maintain Combustion Chamber Pressure and Fuel/Air Load -Contructed with High Quality Material -Built for Durability and Strength OUR ADVANTAGE 1.100% BALANCING TEST, This Turbocharger you will receive has been balanced using the VSR machine technology. Through the comprehensive and high-precision static and dynamic balance detection technology, and reliability. 2. All of the materials we use are the best materials,and we believe that only the best materials will guarantee the life of the turbo. Turbine Wheel: the special K418 alloy to achieve stability under high temperatures up to 900 degrees Celsius, and never use K13 Inconel alloy. Turbine housing : Ductile iron QT450-10 can withstand temperatures up to 700 degrees Celsius Aluminum blades : Precision machining forging. The lightweight design enables reduced noise and increased response without compromising comfort or longevity *Factory direct price, ship worldwide; Offering any turbo part leading 2 years warranty under normal use, unlimited mileage. 2 YEARS WARRANTY Factory direct price, ship worldwide; Offering any turbo part leading 2 years warranty under normal use, unlimited mileage.

Turbo Specifications: Exhaust Inlet (Turbo Manifold) Flange: T3 T4 4 bolt Flange Patterns Exhaust Outlet Flange: V-Band Flange (ID/OD: 2.5"/3.1") Turbine Side: Turbine Trim: 74.2 Turbine A/R: 0.63 Turbine Inducer: 64.8mm Turbine Exducer: 55.8mm Turbine exhaust outlet : 79mm Turbine exhaust inlet: 44.7mm（length）/85.8mm（width） Compressor Side:Compressor Trim: 48.1 Compressor A/R: 0.5 Compressor Inducer: 52.7mm Compressor Exducer: 76mm Compressor outlet:78 mm Compressor inlet:51.5 mm Bearing: Journal Bearing Cooling Type: Oil Cooled Wastegate: Internal Wastegate Thrust Bearings: 270 Degrees Hosepower: Up to 420 HP Turbo Type: Individual Condition: 100% Brand New Accessories: You will get exactly as shown as picture above Package Size: 30x 28x 24 cm Package Weight: 9180g

11-03-2024 Turbo project update. I Went ahead and snagged the turbo for my project. Ebay special... "T3/T4 T04E V-BAND Turbocharger Turbo .63 A/R with Internal Wastegate New" The seller is "TurboBoosts" which has a really good reputation. Good cheap unit for what I am doing, just putting around town in my toy a little bit Here is the link if interested https://www.ebay.com/itm/203047116629 Here are some pics

Man everything looks great! I have a Yoes oil spray bar, the one you have is HUGE in comparison! I do have a question though......running carburetors....why a fuel setup more in line with EFI?? Surely 3-4 psi / standard carb flow is sufficient, or are you overbuilding for the future? I don't even know HOW you found the HKS surge tank and stuff.

I was searching online, and this is the cheapest price I found for the Snow Performance Water/Methanol injection Stage 1 kit:

Click to watch video from the above post. V1.MOV

11-02-2024 Turbo project update. Since the turko kit I bought hasn't arrived yet, I started work on an aluminum plate heat barrier around my brake master cylinder. I also went ahead and ordered t a Snow Performance stage 1 water/methanol injection kit, that will make my 11.54 to 1 compression motor survive a little bit of boost on top of it all. I have also decided to go with an internal wastegate, and the video I posted earlier, shows a neat way to lower the boost setting on an internal wastegate with a spring and and a couple spacers. I now want to figure out how the throttle cable or hopefully rods will work for the single SU carb. Here is a quick video and then a few pics of the heat shield, keep in mind, it is NOT finished, just started. (video from today on post below this)

11-02-2024. Well, I found a new project. An old Crown Turbo kit in pieces, that I am going to clean up and install with a new Trubo, some water/methanol injection, and run it on my 11.54 to 1 compression stroker L series. I will keep the boost LOW. It is primarily for looks, and that little shot of power will be cool also. I am at high elevation, so the overall compression is lower, .....at 5 Psi I will be at 14.27 to 1 compression. I really only want 3 psi, no more, so that compression figure would be 12.7 to 1. Methanol water injection 50/50 mix will make the 91 octane act like it's 116 Performance (octane) rating.

First oil change today. 523 miles. I pulled the drain plug and the oil came out BLACK as expected. I had a buildup on the end of the plug, which I also expected being a fresh engine. Topped her off again, with the Risilone ZDDP and went from 10W30 to some thicker 20W50 cheap oil "O'Reilley's 20W50" (hey its got the ratings....) to see if it raises the oil pressure up a tad. So, this will stay in for 1,000 miles, then I will switch to a synthetic and a new filter of course. The rear main seal weeps a tiny bit on the ground, but very acceptable. Perhaps this thicker oil will stop that. Overall, the engine has performed as expected. So, for those that have been following along, this is a pretty good way to go for a Z car engine. Pics to follow. Cheers!

The Factory manual states 18 degrees at idle. I did 20. It runs GREAT! 91 octane fuel up here, which is 93 everywhere else, 11.5 to 1 compression...no pinging, pulls like a frieght train. When all else fails, follow the manual I guess. Everyone told me the "A" cam was too weak.....my exhaust manifold won't work......well, it WORKS. Its a quick Z car.

in a d? As in Datsun? what? we bore until 3/8 from the end and stop. that leaves a 3/8" thick shelf for the liner to rest on. If I bevel the top of the bores, it would allow for welding the top of the liners in. You could also weld the liners at the bottom at the step. cleanup decking and a clean up bore to smooth up the liner to step area and you're golden. Cooling could be a concern.

I know F54 has the siamesed bores, and the N42 does not. Both have a bore of 86mm. P30 is a 240/260 block, and has a bore of 83mm. Someone today told me he read somewhere that the N42 casting has better oiling than a P30 block. I also read that the N42 block has a higher nickel content than ANY other L6 block. SO.....If one were to bore out all 6 cylinders and sleeve it for BIG pistons, why wouldn't the P30 be just as good as say an N42 or even f54? Thanks in advance.

I consider it finished, in that, it is a ready to be driven at any moment. Small little projects as you said are never ending. If it ever gets to where nothing can be done, it will become another boring toy that just sits.

It was done.....then the stuff that was never touched decided it wanted to be "touched". Sure is nice and strong in the midrange with the diesel crank

Today I installed the gas tank. First I jacked up and drained the old tank, then went to removbe it, the nuts that hold the tank straps are 14mm. I recommend having a ratcheting open end box end wrench and a ratchet with extension and a deep well 14mm socket. Screwdrivers to remove the fuel lines, unplug the electricsand lower it down. You will have to pull it off of the filler neck, even though the clamp is loosened. Oh, and take pics of everything so you can refer to them on re-install. Once it was half way down, I was able to remove my singular vent hose. To put the new tank in, the rubber pieces I bought for it did NOT come with a sticky side, so I used some of my 3M VHB double sided tape and got them on. I then cut the plugs off the ports I do have and then just put the tank in the hole carefully getting the vent hose in and then getting one strap up and held on to take the weight off then push/pull the tank to get it in the correct spot and then get the filler neck started. I wasn't able to push the filler neck on...just able to get it started, so I put the other tank strap on, the closest to the end, and as I tightened it down, it pushed the filler neck on to where I needed it! Then it is just a process of tightening clamps. I found that instead of a screwdriver, an 8mm open end wrench worked better for tightening the filler neck clamp. I noticed that the drain plug in the new tank is 18mm, and the original was 19mm by the way. Putting the sensor in was easy enough, but I ended up doing it twice and draining the tank twice, as the ground pin, or the pin with the rubber at the base needs to be on top of the other post. When I filled the tank up, the gauge was reading backwards, so I qucikly drained the fuel, tapped the ring off & flipped the sensor and tightened it back on. Everything worked great from that point and Bob's your uncle . I have attached some pics of the days work. See attached.

So, I decided to cry uncle on patching and repairing my original 52 year old gas tank, and went ahead and ordered one from Chris Visscher at S30.world. He is very easy to work with, and the tank I received in the mail showed up just a few days after shipemnt from Europe to my doorstep in Colorado. So incredibly fast shipping. It appears from the box it was manufactured in Taiwan, and the ports that ARE on the tank have nice rubber plugs on them, and the tank comes with an additional drain plug, a nice unit all zinc plated. In the pics below you can see how it was shipped and I shined a light inside and grabbed a few pics for you to see how it looks on the inside. I also went ahead and snagged some new rubber bits to go on the tank to isolate it from the car....I found them on eBay motors via a quick search, Chris also sells them I believe. So, next will be install. I also snapped a pic of where you can locate the gas tank on eBay Motors if you wish to buy it through them, and I also provided the email addresses to reach them. I went through eBay motors, and quickly received an email from Chris wanting to know if I actually wanted all the vents on the tank or not, as the tank on eBay is US spec with all the ports. That was great, as I really didn't want all the ports, and it added that little extra bit of customer service that I like. See pics below, Cheers.

After noticing my temp was a bit higher than optimum via the dash temp gauge, I decided to embark upon installing a shroud in the hopes of dropping the operating temp of my engine. After looking online, I decided on the Shroud being sold by Motorsport Auto "The Z Store" . It is a copy of the factory shroud, but made in fiberglass. It is a nice piece, very smooth and has a nice shine to the gel coat. After much thought, I decided to make it a shroud I could install around the fan setup in the car so I wouldn't have to everything apart to get it on. The shroud came without the mounting holes NOT being drilled. So I cut the shroud into 4 pieces, and began determining where to drill the mounting holes. I ended up "wallowing" out the holes to I could have some movement in getting each of the 2 major side pieces mounted. Mounting screws...I was able to find some nice round head allen bolts and washers in my stash to make it looh good! I then started using plate aluminum I had kept from previous projects to make mounting pieces for the top and bottom pieces to join, and used basic 6/32 hardware to make it happen. The aluminum pieces were treated to a polishing, via my polishing attachemnt in my electric drill and the use of Mother's Mag Wheel Aluminum Polish. I was able to then go about adjusting and marking to get everything attached and when done, it was secure..... but the looks of it from the top were not what I had hoped for. So, I then cut and fabricated an aluminum cover piece for the top. I polished it out like I had the smaller pices and then attached across the top. Once finished I can see the slight marks from the metal shears ont he edges, which I will go back over with my ball peen hammer and a re-polish at a later time....I will of course have to mask it off as I polish it, but as far as being complete, it is done. Driving impressions after install are that it DID in fact lower operating temps. The TEMPO gauge needles used to be at 5 O'Clock, now it is just a hair past straight down, 6 O'clock! In the pics you can see I had to use some wire to hold the top up so as to clear tha fan for the drive tonight to a local car meet. The car attracted attention as it always seems to and many very nice compliemnts were had. I will have to also make a bracket on the top to hold it up so the fan clears the shroud. The pics attached should cover it. All in all, this is something any Z owner can do, if they don't ahve a shroud, and would like to give their engine a bit more cooling. Cheers!

Geez, thanks for saying something....I got the posts crossed! Appreciate the kind words. I don't need water tight, as the car is just a "nice day" toy!