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What was your cylinder wall thickness measured at?

What horsepower level do you think you will need? Budget??? Since you talked about the Chevy engine, is there a need/desire to stay with the Nissan motor. If there is, what about a VH41DE from the Late 90' Infinity Q45. 4.1L V8 out of the box, don't know about overbore. Mid two hundred hp with stock electronics, go after market ECU, up the injectors and you should be able to push some serious power. If you have money to though at the engine. High compression pistons, maybe custome cams. No after market support for this engine is the only draw back. Everything would need to be custom. My 2 cents.

This Nissan Service Bulletin is the only documentation I know of that shows a Federal/California as well a Manual/Auto trans breakdown of ECU P/N's. NTB93-167.pdf

Tony, I am not being argumentative here and I am just passing along what the Ref told me in person. The way he explained it, and I am paraphrasing, if you have a 49 state car with an L28E and want to swap in a different engine, let's say L28ET, the L28ET has to be from a California compliant car, or be able to show the swapped L28ET has all the California Emission parts installed (the ECU P/N as an example). This qualifies as an engine swap and makes the car with the swapped engine California Compliant and the BAR issues a new sticker stating such. It must remain a CA car from then on! If you have a 49 state car with an L28E and are replacing it with another L28E, this is not technically an engine swap, it is a replacement and you can use any 49 state compliant L28E. As you say, there is a grey area with a non-CA car (federal or non-USDM) when it comes to swapping in different engines. Is the Ref mis-informed? I don't know. What I do know is that the guy that needs to pass my car told me to do X and that is what I will do. I don't start quoting regulations to CHP officers when they pull me over either. Yes officer, sign name, take ticket, fight in court or pay. Have a nice day. For anyone that is working through this process I would not stress enough the "doing the legwork ahead of time", including talking with the Ref. If you just show up the inspection is rough, or doesn't happen at all!

Per the Ref I am working with, the swap has to come from a CA emissions certified vehicle and/or be able to show the CA emissions part number (The ECU Part # for example) if you are making a 49 state car CA compliant.

I was being serious! On a front sump car the dipstick is moved forward as well so that the oil is measured in the sump. On the block there should be a flat spot, just forward of the engine mount if I remember, that would have been drilled for the forward position of the dipstick. You might want to search for posts from people that have converted from front to rear sump or the other way round. Also if someone converted a rear sump block to front sump they may have blocked the rear oil pick-up internally in the block. I would advise you to blow some air or solvent through it to make sure it is open.

Is it just the pick up that is duplicated or are there two dipstick holes as well?

I need the stock exhaust pipe from the three bolt flang on the cast downpipe to the cat. Any body got one? Give me a price and photos. Shipping will be to Zip 90503 (Torrance, CA). PM me if you can help. Thank you, Chris

Not to muddy the waters too much on such a good thread, but this discussion also applies to 1975 and older cars imported into California from overseas. Ask me, I know from personal experiance. The DMV will not flag the car for smog inspection if it is 1975 or older. So you can register your 1972 Hakosuka, but if the CHP flag it for emissions compliance, or someone rats you out, you will have to take the car to the REF to get the registration and ticket cleared. Once the REF sees the triple carbs and non-US engine block, you are sunk. Only way out is to swap in a US engine and emissions equipment and have the car get a BAR engine swap sticker. This is what I am going through right now. I second the request to see if any of the RB swapped Z's have ever been stopped for emissions?

I don't think there is enough material in the main cap to get a two more main bolts installed. Have you opened up your block and looked at the main cap? I know on some V8's they have two additional bolts that splay out at 45 degrees but I have never heard of all 4 main bolt at 45 deg. Take a look at this photo I pulled of one of the stroker build websites, It would take a lot of machining to get more bolts in there. If you machined entirely new main caps and came in at 90 deg to each other like the old chrysler hemi engines it might work. That would take a lot of work, but this is Hybrid Z so have at it. Others have made a lot of power on stock main caps, 800+ hp, so if your's failed I don't think it was because of the main bearing cap unless it was installed wrong. My 2 cents....

I have a pair of these tail lights (JDM version) sitting on the shelf in my garage. Four different people have inquired about purchasing them. When I tell them the price, they all run. Remember, shipping to the US alone would add $50 to the price. Not many people are interested once they realize how much a conversion like this would cost using Nissan parts. Check prices on Yahoo Japan Auctions and see if you are still interested in doing this conversion. I think $200 for the pair plus shipping would be a deal. If you are in Japan, you might be able to pick them up cheaper and save on shipping. Some body once said the key to a good deal is being in the right place with the right amount of cash! Best bet for a budget change would be to scour the US junkyards for something you like and make it work.

Just got home and did some quick measurements on the Datsun pulleys I have. First the SBC chevy (Long Water Pump) info I got from this link SBC long water pump dual groove pulley Diameter - 6.3", Bolt circle - 2.3", Depth - 2.25" For the Datsun Pulley I have two; one L28ET and one unkown. L28ET - Diameter - 4.57", Bolt circle - 2.34", Depth - 2.80" Unkown Pulley (off L20E) - Diameter - 5.5", Bolt circle - 2.34, Depth - 2.8" So looking at the bolt patterns, they are very close. The diameter will effect pump rpm, larger diameter will spin slower at same rpm. The depth is the main issue, but there are a lot of custome SBC pulleys out there. For referance, Some more Datsun pulley, fan, water pump info......http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Water_pump

Small Block Chevy might work, I don't have one in front of me but they come in dual belt. Might need to mod the bolt pattern. Summit Racing has a few SBC dual pulley Canton Racing has a larger selection of specialty pulleys Canton Racing Pulleys Hope I don't lead you down the wrong path.

If that is the KAMEARI head gasket, it looks like it has cooling passages for an N42 Block. Which would make sense based on most high power JDM builds using the N42 block instead of the F54. I just verified a picture of the KAMEARI gasket against my N42 block and it looks correct. I don't know the best way to modify that gasket, someone else will have to answer that.

I've got an F54 Block, $150 take it. I live in Torrance. PM me if interested.

I need to get a California emissions ECU for a 1983 Manual Transmission L28ET, JECS P/N A18-605047 or A18-605581. Please let me know if you have one availble. Thank you, Chris.

Some JDM (Japan Domestic Market), not sold in US, N42 heads did not come with the ports for injectros or the bolt holes for the injected intake. I have such a N42 head on my stroker motor. Works great with individual throttle body EFI on a Cannon intake. Think tripple weber, but EFI. Search ITB on this sight and you will find a few examples.

50mm Mikuni Los Angeles craigslist Selling 3 re-built Mikuni 50mm race carbs. Link above is to my craigslist ad with pictures. Looking for $1500 OBO for the set. Chris

My posting is incorrect as noted by by BRAAP below. Thank you for the correction ...

John, Do you know why it failed? Were you using the special bolt/washer with the BHJ damper of the stock crank bolt?

Well, I wouldn't want to part out the L20 just yet, but if the time comes I might be willing to help out. For the right price of course. By the way, looking at your gallery photos, we have almost identical garages. I have an orange Fiat and silver Skyline, you have an orange Datsun and silver Fiat. Opposite ends of the country......was there a switch in the earths magnetic poles? It's early here and I'm not being very funny, the L20 build will be on the shelf until I get that S30. Chris