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And not to end this discussion, but searching would have dug up this gem from the past...... Kameari idler discussion Again, one should always look at their engine as a combination of parts to achieve a goal.

My understand from discussion on this site and others is that the Kameari set up adds timing chain stability at RPM's that a normal street engine would not see. I remember seeing a video of a Kameari test, where they made a plexiglass front cover and videoed the timing chain slappping against the guide. They then installed their tensioner and chain slap was reduced to near zero with RPM's in excess of 10K. Again, from memory, a stock chain guide's life can be measured in minutes at RPM's greater than 10K. If the chain is hitting the guide it is causing friction and taking horsepower. On a maximum effort race engine that see RPM's above 9K regularly, stock parts will not cut it.

Yes, will be attached to your distributor.

I thought I have read here about valve clearance issues with the smaller bore of the L24. Will need to eye brow the block for clearance of the L28 valves. As for an adaptor plate, maybe talk with these guys: Extrudabody weld plate They could maybe help you out.

Bryan Blake of Blake Machine, Phoenix, Arizona

Pretty sure you need to run the turbo zx throw-out collar on this set up. I did but with a SPEC stage 1 turbo clutch. Did you measure the installed height of the pressure plate before you put it in? With the FSM and that distance you can calculate if you have the correct collar. I don't think a shorter push rod will help. From the way mine is installed the plunger in the slave cylinder will compensate for the rod length, provided it is not pushing out of the slave cylinder at full pedal travel, but fluid loss would tell you that.

Here's WHY, More velocity is good as is Total pressure. You should attempt to increase both. Fictional losses are an order of magnitude or more less than the gain for the increase in velocity. VE is dependant on the mass of air that gets into the engine. Mass flow is a function of area, desity and velocity. Mass flow can also be increased by increasing Total Pressure (what a turbo charger does). What you want to say is you need to increase momentum (mass times velocity) of the fuel air charge. This will increase torque, both peak and the rpm band it operates over. I agree with your statement on the pressure wave, but the term you are lookin for is inlet column inertia. Newton's second law, once the air gets moving it does not want to stop so it contiues to compress behind the intake valve until that valve opens. This is driven by "tuning" the length of the intake runner. I haven't brushed up on my physics, but would like to understand the background for the infinate discontinuity taper argument. I have always understood from fluid mechanics that the taper does three things; 1) it fights the frictional losses by increasing velocity (again more gain from the velocity than loss from friction) 2) it prevents the air from detaching from the walls and choking the intake flow (effective flow area) 3)prevents the fuel from falling out of suspension. Buy the way, on some engines, empirically about 7 degrees of taper is the maximum to prevent the airflow from detaching from the walls. So some where between no taper and 7 degrees is where you want to be.

These are the parts you are lacking. These are for an N/A AFM. The flange diameter is a hair over 2.75 inches and the square opening on the AFM side is 2 inches. If is was a tubo AFM the diameter is larger and the AFM opening is rectangular not square.

They do! I can take a picture of one when I get home from work. Is this for a Turbo or NA car? I might even have an extra one.

Purhapse you could write said FAQ as a thread in the relevant engine section and then have it nominated to sticky status?

Ah..... No. Turbo and N/A look the same. Turbo afm has bigger diameter flanges on the intake side. Can't remener the exact diameter. And a larger flapper valve. 300zx has tubular afm.

Most insurance companies will write a fixed value policy, especially on a car that old. It does not need to be a collector car policy. Just be willing to pay out the nose for it. I would try and talk with an independant insurance guy and find out what's availble. They will take your money!

Do some research on guys that have put PC's in their cars. You will want a complete mini computer in the car. Use wireless pad to control that computer, then wire all the inputs and outputs you need directly to the mini computer. Think wireless home entertainment system, controlled from one pad. Most of the wireless, pad, touch screen software drivers already exsist. Might have to go RF instead of Bluetooth, but who cares. I/O is easy as well, once you know were to look, think motion control and linear actuators. If I had to guess, total system cost to automate all the functions you are talking about would be about $7 to 8K in parts, then integration on top of that. Cost is relative, and depends on the designers creativity. Modern Nissan and other touch screen driven cars use a CAN bus system to control all the functions in the car. In Nissan lingo, the mini computer i mentioned above is the Body Control Unit (BCU). It interfaces with all the other ECUs in the car including the engine computer. It also controls most of the relays that will power whatever mechanical interfaces you want. You are basically going to have to replicate and install a CAN system on the car. Got luck!

Locktite changes the torque setting when you install the bolts. How would you compensate for that? I would rather have "dry" bolts properly torqued.

Get a security clearance and a job with a defense contractor. If you take your work home you go to jail! Lol.

Try this link L24 vs L28ET Either one will fit 240 with correct oil pickup. Rear sump was to clear stearing drag link on on 280ZX that is behind the cross member. 240 stearing is in front of cross member.

Top one is off a 280z (S30) and the other is off a 280zx (S130). 280z should fit a 240Z, but double check. I haven't specifically searched that.

Take your pick, $55 shipped

Google: Wind Tunnel Test Engineer for a couple descriptions of what I do. To answer your questions, go ask your faculty, other engineers and specificaly any companies you might want to work for, what engineers do. In the mean time, join an engineering professional society at your school (AIAA for AE's, SAE for ME's) and get involved. They have many competions where you build things hands on. They will also have speakers come in and tell you about what they do as engineers. Also, if you want to get through a tough class, find the smartest guy in class and ask for help. Make some friends and start a study group. You are not the only one struggling. Beleive me! Chris

I will give you my back ground and then ask my question of you. Growing up I always like airplanes, so in high school, I decieded to become an Aerospace Engineer. I went to Univeristy of Kansas for 4 years in there Aerospace program. I did not graduate. I fluked out my first two semesters, had to potition the engineering school to let me back in on probation. Scrapped by with a GPA just high enough to not get kicked out. After 4 years, I decieded to take a semester off, I was working full time while I was going to school, only way to pay for it. While working full time, I looked around and realized I didn't want a menial job for the rest of my life. I reapplied to a new engineering school, did not transfer any credits and started over. 3.5 years later I graduated BS Aerospace Engineering with a 3.75 GPA. I got a internship my last year doing computer programing for Learjet (makes business jets). That internship got me in the door, my boss knew I didn't want to do computer work the rest of my career, so he talked to the chief test pilot. As an intern, I was cheap labor, so the the chief test pilot let me switch to his department as a flight test engineer. I got to ride in the airplanes while testing things like the engines, fuel systems and pretty much everything. After graduating, he offered me a full time job. I worked that for 3 years, then as our company downsized I went looking for greener pastures. I now conduct wind tunnel testing on advanced military concepts for one of the big three defense contractors. All in all, not bad for 7 years of college and almost flunking out. So, end of lecture, now my question, Why do you want to be an engineer? What will the piece of paper give you that 20 years of hard work and fabrication skills wouldn't? What are you good at? Remember, aerospace engineers don't necessarily do a lot of wrenching, we direct others. The wind tunnel models are made by expert craftsmen in our shop. I could not hope to have their skill, but I also will not spend 30+ years working a trade. I do what I am good at, thinking about the problem and getting the solution. I leave it to others, most of the time, to actually implement the solution. Also, remember this, in college you learn the ability to learn, to overcome things that are difficult and determine the solution on your own. Sometime it works, sometimes not, but you learn. One last question, How crappy do you think the text book of life is?

Added some pics of the new stem I installed.

I used channel locks or vise grips. Trashed the old part getting it out. New steam from Nissan threaded back in no problem.

Which wire did you replace? Can you be more discriptive. Why did you replace it? Do you have the factory service manual from this web site: www.xenons30.com/

Read the rules and post in the correct forum.

That paint looks awesome! Would please tell us how much silver and or aluminum was mixed in? What color silver and aluminum or did you use metal flake?