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Don't discount the way coatings and squirters work in cooling the combustion chamber. I don't want to get into a flame war with cries of where is your test data, but fundamentally oil squirters and coatings are working at the combustion heat problem from the opposite sides of the problem (pun intended). Check out this link, Piston cooling and detonation, it's a lot of information, but it draws a link between pistion cooling (and mentions oil squirters) and possible reduction in detonation and potential increases in ignition timing. My understanding is coatings keep the heat in the combustion chamber doing two things 1) Protecting the piston from heat (durability) and 2) higher thermal efficency for more power. A draw back is that you now need to get that heat out somewhere else (exhaust, cylinder head cooling, ect). Oil squirters remove heat from the combustion directly. Just like increasing the cooling efficency of the head. The removal of this heat, while decreasing power might allow for more timing to be added and gain that power or more back. Understanding there are cost, practicality and other issues with any engineering solution, I would still be interested in the feasability of adding squirters to an L engine. I would also like to continue the discussion of benifits, drawbacks, pros and cons. What I hope we don't degenerate into is a "It can't or shouldn't be done" attitude. I'm all for discussing the down side of this solution or attempt to use oil squirters, but lets not starting talking about what's better or worse. I will also through this out there, heat flux (and temperature) have an effect on combustion dynamics. Cooling or not cooling the piston will effect how the combustion behaves. I am looking into squirters for the potential for more ignition timing.

Yes, they do. In How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine, it says to close the oil hole in the rod because the excess pressure will spray too much oil onto the piston and cylinder wall. Let me look at the geometry, but the oil squirts being discussed would would give a more direct consistent spray onto the piston not cylinder wall. I think the stock hole, being on the rod end, changes angle relative to the piston during a rotation of the crank and it would only oil one side. Just checked a set of stock rods and pistons. The oil hole in the rod is directed such that only one side of the piston gets the oil spray. Also the angle looks like it will spray only on the skirt and maybe below. Definitely not on the underside of the piston crown. Maybe the crown would get a little spray but nothing consistent, I don't think. On a plus note, the underside of the block at the bottom of the cylinder bore is pretty flat. Would be pretty easy to machine a flat to mount the squirter. Now just have to find an oil source. The main bearing feed is right there, but I would hesitate to tap pressure from the main bearings. Need to find my copy of the oil system diagram. That has the oil flow in the block if I remember correctly.

I'm sure you are going to take issue with this, but you are the one that turned it into a fight. You said two statements that were factually incorrect. 1) To add an oil drain for the turbo you would need to drill a hole and weld an adapter to your oil pan creating metal shavings and slag to go in to the pan. As pointed out, this is incorrect. HowlerMonkey did not weld his drain and did not create shavings. There are other ways to do this. 2)Your engine will be dead before it gets oil to the topend. Again as pointed out, this is incorrect as indicated by Six_Shooter. The problem is you made definative statements that are incorrect. When you expressed your opinion you said it as if it were a fact. I can't read science from warning with just text. It may not be the way you do it, but yours is not the only way. And as for you last statement, I would not port my head with it attached to the car. I think that would be stupid. I would retap a sparkplug hole with the head attached, something I would not have done only a little while ago. It was specifically explained how to do it on this very site. I read a lot and my opinions change. Magic!

HowlerMonkey on this site, added a turbo oil drain with the pan in the car. He did a write-up on it as well. It can be done, but you need to be VERY careful. And yes, make sure you don't get any shavings into the pan.

Research the Euro spec turbo cars. I believe they use a vacuum distibutor. There have been a couple threads on here about it or mentioning it.

This could be interesting. I have had the same thoughts myself. Might need to breakout one of my scrap blocks and have a look. I do remember Tony D alluding to mods that JeffP did to his oiling system in the context of cooling, so maybe he knows something about this topic. Can you get sizing specs on the Saab squirters?

The mystery pan is from a late 280zx. If you change to the later style pickup, that pan will fit. With the correct oil pump pickup all the bolt holes will line up. Sorry for not being more clear in my earlier post. I Assumed you knew there was three styles of L series pans. Front, mid and rear sump.

I just did some measurements and that pan will fit an L28. Lenght width, oil pick up and hole pattern is correct. Is your's warpped? What holes specifically don't fit? I'm at a loss. Best guess is it is a rear sump 280zx pan or something JDM.

Stupid question, but did you try the bolt pattern both ways. Might be a front sump pan?

LINK

This was covered in a thread a couple months back. With pictures of that cam and another.

Howler's set-up would not pass. Engine that is swapped has to be newer than the chassis.

Turbo AFM inlet and outlet are larger than the NA version. I can check when I get home, but I remeber the turbo AFM being 80mm or approximately 3".

To get a standard, non-historical, registration..... RB swap, I will be bold and say you will not be able to do that legally. L28ET swap, as long as the engine is stock (as it came in the 280zx), you can claim it as an engine swap under California law and take it to a BAR ref and with the proper 280ZX emissions equipment it can be legally registered. For historic registration.... There is a gray area regarding the terms "collector, special interest and histroical interest". Apperently with the correct supporting documentation, as mentioned above, one can get a historical exemption regardless of modifications. That's my take, target range is now open for shooting up my logic. I'll PM you off line and we can work through your situation if you would like. Contact Tony as well, he knows a considerable amount on this subject and knows some of the mechanics of process better than I. I eventually swapped a bone stock L28ET (out of a 1983 280ZX) into my 1977 JDM Skyline and the Ref agent gave me the ok to get the car registered. It will forever be smogged as a 1983 280zx because of the engine swap.

Cool Dave. When I went through some of this with my Skyline, I didn't have the advantage of a knowledgable club. You are in a better position than I was. I figured you knew what was involved, the Datsun 240K guys have to jump through hoops just to put on fender flares!

Dave, Section (a) of which vehicle code? VC 5004 (a)(3)? I see no definition for "Collector Vehicle" that does not lead you to section (b ) of VC 5051. VC 259 says what a collector vehicle is and points to VC 5051. VC 5051 defines a collector and then directs you to definition of special interest vehicle. How do you get around that? Are you trying to imply that in VC 5004 a collected, restored, maintained and operated 240Z with an RB or VK56 swap is of historic interest? What history are you trying to represent? I appologize if this sounds like I am picking a fight, but if any motor is USDM why not do the swap legally and over the table. It sounds like a lot of people are trying to skirt the law and find some loop hole to justify their JDM motors. Now, you can always do things illegally, but I have my own reasons to not endorse that route. I think alot of this comes down to intent. Are you really trying to get a one off, historic vehicle registered so you can take it to a club meet or are you trying to sneak the car you want to drive anytime through the system? You should see what the Austrailian guys have to go through when they modify their cars. We just have to deal with smog.....

For the question on what it exempts you from, I agree with Tony that it is a sniffer test only, compliant to the year of manufacture of your chassis. But, read Section 5051 for definition of special interest vehicle. It says UNALTERED FROM THE MANUFACTURE's ORIGINAL SPECIFICATIONS, (sorry to yell) so no engine swaps!

If the L28et is still close to stock, have it registered as a swap. You will have to have it smogged for year and model of engine though. I would call and ask to speak with a BAR ref. Don't give you vin number but explain your situation and ask what to do. Your situation is much improved with a USDM engine and the fact the swap was done out of state. It may even be fine as is.

I was just quoting what was told to me on the phone call to DMV that i made. Thanks for the updated info Tony. A question, would you help write or do you think that a club would support a letter claiming an RB swapped Z is historically interesring?

After talking to the DMV a couple years back on the collector car designation, here is my take; 1) Point of the collector car exemption is for one off customs, vintage cars that parts no longer exsist and some kit cars. One of the requirements as was pointed out in one of the threads is that you have to have collector insurance and can only use the car for parades, club functions or to take it to the shop. Now again, are they going to catch you driving it to the mall? But you are still not legal, draw your own analogy to speeding. 2) "and is of historic interest" is determined by an admistrator of the DMV. You submit your case (still don't know how you do that) and this guy gives you a thumbs up or thumbs down. From the person on the phone at the DMV they don't consider anything mass produced as historically interesting. Also, modification that are not period correct are not historical at all. Double standard, yes, but historical is historical. I know of one vintage 4-door JDM Hakoska that is on historic plates. That car is one of about 4 in the country. Draw your own conclusions. 3) The real point of the collector requirement as stated in #1 is to allow people that want to have a restored, car of historical interest, but can't find that super rare non-exsistant emissions part. The Scarab's might fall under this kind of designation, or a S20 powered Fairlady Z 432. It was a pain in the ass to get my car legal. I have a 1977 JDM Skyline, once I swaped in a 1982 L28ET from a 280zx, the ref was happy and I now have a BAR sticker that shows everything legal. No worries from CHP or the Smog boys.

There are many threads on here that covers this in depth (i.e. search), but I'll try to summarize. Your example is also complicated by the non-USDM engine example, so here goes. For California registration, the engine in the car must be (cars older than 1965 are exempt, but that does not apply to Z's): 1) As originally equiped for the year and make of the vehicle with ALL emmissions equipment in place and functioning. 2) If the vehicle has an engine swap from an equal year or newer USDM vehicle of the same class (i.e. no heavy truck motors in cars) the vehicle will be inspected by a BAR agent and given a emissions certification based on the year of the engine, provided ALL emmissions equipment from the donor vehicle are in place and functioning. 3) Any non-USDM engine will not pass a BAR inspection. So to to you example; 73' Datsun S30 with BCNR R33 drive train, can not be legally registered in California. The engine has never passed EPA evaluation. 73' Datsun S30 with orginal engine and smog pump and ALL other emissions equipment installed can be registered. The emboldedend remark is true. P.S. Some people rely on the DMV to be lazy. 1975 and older cars do not require a smog inspection, PRIOR to going to the DMV to get it registered. There is a chance that the guy at the DMV will be lazy and not look at the engine that is installed and only look at the VIN. In this case, you might slide by with getting plates, but it is by no means legal. If you are caught later with this swap, they will pull your registaration. See this link Got a referee ticket.....

You need to search and read more. Do your homework, all these questions have been answered if you search.

This was posted in non tech about 3 weeks ago, but the more the word gets out the better.

Start by reading the Factory Service Manual. Strangly it describes every system on the engine. Then search the internet for more information on how each of those systems function. Remember, that Nissan put each of those items on there for a reason. It would have been cheaper if they left it off, so it must do something. Read the emissions thread on here before you start thinking you don't need whats on there.

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