ctc
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Everything posted by ctc
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Truth or heresay? OS Giken to finally reproduce the TC24-B1 head
ctc replied to MazterDizazter's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
They have DLSM in aluminum. Problem is part size. Current about 1 cubic foot is the largest. We call it grown metal. Even have stainless. -
My opinion is for you to search the Powertrain FAQ's. That will tell you the major differences. Then ask your question again in a more detailed and focused direction. There is at least one thread if not two in the last few days that will answer your question. For a quick answer, they will interchange. But if it's a good idea to do that depends on what you want to do, which you haven't said.
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Search! It has been asked and answered a million times now.
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Tony, agreed that the horse power levels we are talking about (600+) are beyond the the original design intent. That is why we are talking about needing modification. I amend my statement to "I understand the L series cylinder head requires cooling modifications when pushed beyond 6X stock horsepower levels" I understand the FIA head at least and I assume the LY head as well innately have a cooling design similar to what has been discussed on this site and used sucessfuly by members here on modified production head castings. As you say, the LY and FIA heads are virtually unobtainium for most of us. What I was getting at was insight into how the RB head works or if there are any know required modification, like the L series, when pushing over 600hp on an RB. I have my hands full learning about the L series (what I have in my car) and quite honestly don't have the time to study all the idiosyncrasies of another series of engines. I know that people have put some really big power numbers though the RB's, but did not know how much modification was required on those engines.
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Forgive my ignorance of the RB engine, but i know the L series engine has head cooling issues. There has been discussion here about reversing the cooling flow by directing coolant into the head first then it the block and finally back to the radiator. Do you know of any similar cooling issues with the RB head? Was your choice to flow coolant into the block first based on being the most practical solution or was there another reason for this choice?
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Keep the egr, won't pass visual without it. It can also allow more timimg without detoniton. Randomly pulling of emissions equipment will hurt horsepower sometimes on these engines. You want clean and efficent combustion. Also, keep the cat. Go high flow if yours is dead. You do realize a Chevy ZR1 engine makes a ton of hp for a "smog" motor! Same principles apply. Smog does not equal less horsepower or bad. Get over that.
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A couple comments, because I went though something similar recently. 1) PITA : Not only do you need to do the swap every two years, but you need to store the motor and keep everything running. This was to much of a commitment for me. 2) Bad idea. It's one thing to cheat on a smog test, but switching VIN's will risk getting the car impounded and crushed. That's a line I wouldn't cross, but to each his own. 3)If you found a cool smog guy, pay him $200 bucks to to not sniff your car and pass it anyway. That's how most of the 240SX and RX7 guys do it. Although this is getting harder and harder. 4) L28ET is not really that hard to find. I weekly see adds on Craigslist for a non-running 280zx turbos in California. Figure about $1000 for a complete car, or a shipped engine off of ebay with all the necessary parts. Besides, you have already done it once. If it were me, I would go the MegaSquirt route. You can use the stock wiring harness that is in the car and if you want to get really trick, the guts of a MegaSquirt will fit in the stock ECU case. Use all the stock manifold parts. Then you can modify at will and upgrade the tune each time. Also do some research on emission and smog control devices. There is a great thread on here about emissions, just search for it. Remember, a well tuned car is a clean car. Only once you get really radical with the cam and lots of raw fuel in the exhaust do things get really out of hand. With a well tuned ECU and good fuel and igition control, you should be able to pass smog on a 35 year old car no problem. Is your car Federal emission or California, easy way to tell is if it has a stock O2 sensor. If it is a Cali car, then all the stock components are in place that you need. How is the corner smog guy going to tell the difference between a stock 02 sensor or a wide band? Believe me, if it's close and they can pass it they will take your money.
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Have you downloaded the Factory Service Manual? There is a complete troubleshooting guide in it that might give you a place to start. Search the Xenon S130 site for the FSM.
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1983 FSM has both systems in it (EF & EC page 61). ECCS is trouble shooting for the turbo ECU. 1983 FSM Link (Xenon s130) EF & EC Page 100 starts the AFM testing. I have read on another thread here, can't find it, of similar problems as you are describing. In that case it was the ECU connectors.
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I quote from the this thread Custom Cylinder Head Building post #9 (the right honorable BRAPP) Me thinks thou does searcheth too little...... The cheapest option is to build what you have. The N-47 will be fine. A P79 core, should be easy to come by. Search on emissions here as well and you will be suprised how worth your time that head can really be. If you truely want the least cost into this motor and the most benefit. Spend time, not money, on research. A lot of people have already given you some very good options. Chris
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I would suggest start by reading the following thread 200+ WHP NA Build If it were me; Stock rebuild on the bottom end Megasquirt fuel injection Cylinder head porting and a rebuild Hotter cam Lots of guys on this site have done it. I might also suggest searching a little more as well. There are discussions of L28's with E31 heads, N42 combs, flat top vs dish pistons. It has all been gone over. FWIW, I went the stroker route and spent a ton of money and now am going turbo L28ET which I should have done from the start. For the cost of the stroker crank alone, you can pay for the Megasquirt. Remember with EFI you can always upgrade more later and add the turbo. It will always be cheaper to build what you have and enjoy it. Upgrade to more power later. Chris
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I have a K cam also. Came in a P79 head, don't know year or what car. Wanted to post slightly better picture.
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A v8 swap approved by a BAR ref will be legal.
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Yes, as long as it is not from a turbo zx.
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Forum Rules 1. The purpose of this site is to discuss TECHNICAL topics that pertain to the modification of the Datsun/Nissan Z cars (240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 300ZX, 350Z). No thoughtful modification that enhances performance or styling will be put down. The philosophy is one of "parts is parts" - it doesn't matter what automaker originally made the parts, if you think that using those parts on your Z will add to it's performance or cosmetic appeal. But the emphasis is on FUNCTION, not the addition of graphics, wings, etc. to only make the Z LOOK like it is a high performance car. However, everyone has their own ideas of what stylish modifications look good or bad. I think rule #1 lets in all styling/cosmetic modifications that are thoughtful with some emphasis on FUNCTION. I feel a suspension modification that lowers the car and compensates for correct suspension geometry is appropriate and meets the intent of rule #1. One which only addresses cosmetics should be handled individually by the moderators and opinions of those who respond to the post as to its merits in regards to rule #1. A sub-forum is not necessary and in my opinion would go against rule #1 and the ability of moderators to police threads that do not meet rule #1. My 2 cent......
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Do a search on your question about the RB head. Sharing some bolt locations is a long way from have a cylinder head that would work. This has all been covered. Think cams. If you want to discuss this more, I would recommend pm or a new thread.
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Sorry James, I can't get my spare off the down pipe without destroying it. FYI, nissanpartszone.com has them new for $50.
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Let me check when I get home tonight. I have one, need to check condition. Shipping zip code?
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Not to muddy the waters, but it was for my Kenmeri Skyline. Ref dinged me for a non-USDM block, as I put all the smog equipment from a 280z on my 2 liter JDM block. In the end he told me to swap in a complete 2.8 liter F54 block and he would sign it off.
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I have some experiance with the Ref and DMV system. The short answer is, YES by going to the Ref, the Ref should have flagged the vehicle VIN number in the DMV database. This is where the registration of the car becomes in question. If your car never went to a Ref station, I can see how the non-op line would work. Non-op the car, show court non-op status, clear ticket, go to DMV to transfer back to operational status. No Ref inspection required, because the age of the vehicle will prevent the DMV from flagging the vehicle for smog inspection. Now by going to Ref, he flagges the VIN in the DMV database. The DMV will now require the Ref to clear the vehicle before the DMV will do anything. In my case, an engine swap, the car was registered when I went to the Ref. He indicated the swap was not correct. He flagged the VIN number with the DMV and the DMV pulled the registation. Until I get a Ref to clear the DMV database, I am unable to register the car. As other have said, there might be legal ways around this, incomplete/incorrect inspection by the Ref, possibly others.
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Also consider, Kameari sells a package. You may need more than just a head. If you are not looking to drop a ton of money on a complete engine build to Kameari spec, I would go with one of the USDM engine builders/ head porters. As others have said, there are plenty of engine builds on this site making any power goal you want, without the Kameari head.
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Link to post on SU, TBI injection... Breezed over it, but has some good information. Tony D pointed out the GM way to go. I have read some other thread here discussing SU derived fuel injection systems, but did not book mark them. Link
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You could go EFI with the SU carb bodies. It has been discussed here a few times.
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Get the factory service manual for Q45 that you bought. That will explain a lot about the workings of the ECU and other components you will need. Also read the threads on the 350Z, VQ35 swaps in V6 sections all. While the components won't interchange their functions are same. Read up on how the body control module works.