ctc

Does your 81 harness have the CAS sensor on the crank pulley? Which Ecu are you using? With the 81 crank angle sensor, you can use an Non-turbo distributor.

You could start by reading the engine weight FAQ. This thread is headed for the tool shed already.

Edit, see above

Alternator Re-wire Here is a link on how to wire a late style alternator in place of an externally regulated alternator. The link is for a 280z, so wires might not be the same color or type. Just use the wiring diagram for your 260z and make the necessary adjustments.

Give them a call. I couldn't find anything on the website, but they haven't updated it in like two years.

Apologies, I thought you where only asking about the wiring harness connections, as that was the question you asked. I assumed you had read and understood the swap thread in which it was posted.

Yes

You should really search this site more. No one will spoon feed you or hold your hand here. Get the turbo FSM and learn how to set timing. Read the thread just before this one one a turbo conversion with an NA block. Read and search, your answers are in the arcieves.

There are CARB legal twice pipe cats out there. Run the stock manifold into a 1-2 splitter, when you need to hit the smog station. Then swap back to the header. As stated the header will never be CA legal, but you can get the cat and everything behind it to be.

FSM says to fully tighten bolt initially and after several minutes of operating the engine re-tighten if necesaary. I take this to mean that you would not lossen them, simply re-torque in the correct sequence. I will let others enlighten me if I am misunderstanding the FSM.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/104797-turbo-igniter-required/page__p__980549__hl__hei__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=980549 Might try to contact randy 77zt, he might have insight on the HEI module

My linkhttp://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/77233-30-1-tooth-wheel-with-cherry-hall-effect-sensor/page__p__986937__hl__distributorless__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=986937 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105480-distributorless-ignition/page__p__986655__hl__distributorless__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=986655 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102458-my-edis-setup/page__p__958836__hl__distributorless__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=958836 Wow, that took a minute. Also research Mega Jolt. See link below http://www.millersmule.com/MillersMuleStore/en/edis/54-megajolt-advance-controller.html

The inginiton harness is seperate from the main harness that contains the ECU, fuel injector and other connectors. Before you do get flamed, read this swap thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/ ID's all the parts and has pictures of the connector and such.

Try searching. Diddler(sp) on here is using GSXR throttle bodies. Carbs would work on the same principle. Runner length has been discussed, both pros and cons. A few have gone crank trigger and don't need the distributor. Search, then ask very specific questions or this will end up in the tool shed.

Ok, so if I read the table on EF-13 in FSM, the fuel pump should not be on with the key in the run position (Ign On) because there is no oil pressure or alternator signal. The test would be to start the engine, disconnect the oil pressure sensor and the alternator wire (I'd just take the belt off before you start it). The engine should die from lack of fuel, as the pump would shut off. Also, based on the 1980 NA manual off of XenonS130, I do not see anywhere where there is a prime function in the fuel pump. Maybe your pump is working correctly? Could it be that the relay was previously stuck "On" and is now working properly. Your hard start my be somewhere else. I'm stumped, unless I am reading the manual wrong!

Again, my experiance only, It's legit to go CA into Federal body, but not the other way around. My Ref would not allow a Federal L28 motor swap into a California emissions car. He was relying on the VIN number only to prove compliance to CA emissions (Comp, cam, ect) and the exsistance of the correct emissions equipment. I am intentionally not going into the full detail of the swap, as it is covered in other threads on this sight.

Agreed John, the point I was trying to make, was that the engine needs to be California emissions compliant not US. My Ref specifically made me get the swap from a CA emissions car and I had to provide the VIN of the car. Once he ran the VIN, every thing was ok. If the VIN would have been for a federal car (say a federal 280z, not Cali), and I'm intentionaly not splitting that hair for the later models, he would not have approved the swap. My experiance only.

The cam tower will physically fit. You will need to follow the FSM instruction for setting up the head explicitly. Make sure you shim the towers if needed, check the lash pad thickness, and rocker wipe pattern. Nothing just "swaps" without checking.

I will quote you because your information is inaccurate or at least incomplete. If you only swap the bottoms of the distributor as indicated can be done, the design of the NA drive shaft will cause timing instabilities of up to 3 degs. If constantly having you timing change is acceptable, please go ahead and try this. Also a note on cam timing. Many on here have discussed the fact that the wheel in the CAS distributor is to small diameter to properly use for a cam timing signal. I suggest you search up on that. Timing traces have been posted of how inaccurate a cam timing signal would be.

This is incorrect. Per the last BAR ref I talked to the donor has to be California emission approved, so no federal motors (even L28's) are allowed.

Search the forum. Cam tower internal oil/external oil has been answered. Cam will not lower static compression.

If you have other wiring damage the wire itself may be bad. Two suggestions, 1) wire a light into the plug in the hatch, this will simulate a load. See how long it stays on. 2) inspect the wires from the plug back up the length of the car. Look for any damage or breaks. Or alternately run a second independent wire to the pump from a known good splice point. You didn't mention NA or Turbo or what year. Looking at the FSM from the 82 280ZX Turbo from Xenon S130, EF & EC page 66 notes 5 seconds of operation at the fuel pump relay. I would check for continuity across the relay when the key is turned. Also EF & EC page 67 indicate 9.8V applied to the pump expect under certain engine states. With a low battery this could translate to 7V where you measured. Just some thoughts.

Try eBay or Nissan parts zone for the drive. I got mine factory new from NissanPartZone.com

Not sure I understand your question, but why not just change the distributor drive shaft to the correct one for the L28ET distributor. L28ET distributor and driveshaft are direct replacement for the L28E distributor and driveshaft. What are you trying to avoid? The parts are reasonable in price and its a 1 hours swap. My understanding from reading other threads is you will see up to a 3 deg timing instability using the stock L28e driveshaft due to slop in the "half moon" tang that goes into the distributor. Swapping to the 1981 crank damper CAS sensor may be a better option if your going with Mega squirt, or just run a custom VR sensor.

You should spend some time searching on this site. All the points you touched on have been answered many times. There are even a few of your fellow countrymen if you look for them. Buy the book "How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" You also need to ask specific questions. It's your car, how do we know what you like. The 5 speed will fit. Tune up on the L26 you got is best money spent till the RB. Otherwise you are spending money twice.