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In the aerospace industry I have seen experimental machines that "print" in aluminum and stainless steel. Hope you have access to something like that. If you are going to the trouble of CAD, start from scratch and optimize the design. If you have access to part scanning technology, find a head and have it scanned. Then you can import it into your software and put the water and oil passages in. Good luck with your project.

Didn't Honda make one? Lol

Since it is not your fault, get a lawyer. The other persons insurance company by law has to replace it for your valuation or make it whole again. They fix $35,000 Mercedes all day long. You need an advocate! Your insurance company should support you in this, as they will try to recover anything they pay you.

Cylinder head temp is the one in head. Other is knock. Same as the last time you asked this question in Nov of 2014. I even googled your other post for the win!

Looks like Bryan's site has issues. That is where they were posted.

Change to the 83 distributor and follow the wiring guide in the FAQ's. This will allow you to hook it up like stock. Use stock ignition for the 83 or search for the mod to use the HEI.

That gap definitely doesn't help force air through the radiator, but having some ducting from the side vents might. It would be a bear to build and seal, not to mention you would have to remove the ducting to work on the engine unless you have a larger access hatch in the rear deck. My guess is the area ratio between the gap and radiator relative to the side vent drops the velocity to near zero at the rad. Would be interesting to get a pressure reading in the vent relative to sealed engine bay. You could then figure rad velocity based on the areas.

Thanks for the measurements. Based on reading else where, I was coming to the conclusion that the air velocity was so low out of the side vents that it basically stagnates in the engine bay. I also read the original type 4 fan was designed to pull from a static air plenum.

This was the thread I was thinking about. Not exactly what you asked, but may provide ideas. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83459-laminova-intercooler-concept/

Wasn't there a thread on this about two years ago? I know TonyD chimed in on it. I'll try to dig it up.

Take a look at this guys build. Discussion on temps is half way down page 18 or 19. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=562094&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=360

Had to rush that post because my son needed me. I was asking if you were taking measurements of air pressure or coolant pressure. I have read that some Subi swaps have insufficient coolant system pressure to prevent boiling prior to the radiator. I would be interested in the pressure drop across the radiator if you are willing to share. I am an test engineer at a big windtunnel facility by trade. I have been wanting to break out a differential pressure gauge to measure air pressure in the engine bay for some time now. I have to stuff an intercooler and AC condenser back there when I get my diesel conversion finished.

Are you taking measurements on the air side or coolant side or both? I would be really interested in any air pressure/air flow measurements you might take

To each his own, I can see how someone could arrive there. Most workable solution from the water cooled bay guys are two honda civic radiators in series one on each side using the original cooling vents. Belly mount has been very good as well if you have the ground clearance. Not really telling you anything you don't know already probably, but the people on thesamba.com have already skinned this cat.

If you haven't already contact a guy named Jake Raby. He has been very successful with rear cooling solutions in Subi powered Bays. http://www.rabyenginedevelopment.com/ I'm going Brazilian cooling on my Bay with a TDi swap.

I know the VW guys get Vermont titles a lot. I'm not 100% on the process, but I think you can mail in a bill of sale and they will send title to you. Search a sight call thesamba.com for more info.

I purchased this set-up and it just arrived today. Overall, the build quality is not too bad for the price. There are one or two welds that look a little thin and on one flange they welded over a 1/8" gap and it looks like very little penetration. The ends that go into the flanges are not properly fit, with grind marks here and there. The flanges are not cut very well, like a band saw or grinder. Hardware is cheap, but I can replace bolts. Gaskets at the flanges might leak, we will see. The thing that most disappoints me is that although they advertise it will work with the stock down pipe, I don't see how. The front pipe doesn't use the Nissan fitment, instead, I will have to come upwith some kind of gasket or exhaust donut. At least the bolts line up! It will be awhile before I get this installed, so I can't comment on fitment. I bought it mainly for the cost of the parts and if I have to re-flange it and get some new hardware, I am still ahead. You get what you pay for, this is an inexpensive system and you can see where they cut corners. My guess is without doing something with the flanges, it will start leaking short order. This is an intermediate step in my exhaust system and I fell it will work in the short term and I can scavange the pipes for a proper system later.

My guess is the police aren't even looking anymore. Car returned, case closed. I know some VW guys that had their van stolen, they tracked it down and it took three phone calls to the police and a news report before the cops went and arrested the people who were using it to transport stolen goods.

Yes and install the pump lobe on the cam. Better to get an electric pump.

Start with the engine placement. Keep the 300zx engine and trans together and use the shifter location to position engine. Build mounts accordingly. If you have ball and knuckle steering, see if you have interferance with your proposed engine position. If you want to swap to rack and pinion steering, you will need to swap steering columns. Figure out drive shaft lengths, custom maybe required. Don't spend time on differential yet, save for after it's running. Use the 300zx ecu and harness, it will be an almost direct replacement for the 280zx engine harness. FMS will direct you to the subtle differences between the two. Should be straight forward. Get it running then mods. One thing at a time prevents project abandonment. Start a build thread.

Using a long drift, install a plug in the main galley between the dipstick hole and the new pickup location. On a factory front sump block, the main galley was not drilled as deep as the pad for the dip stick.

My buddy's 2000 Trans Am had a similar problem, with his emission system. Can't remember if it was a pump or solenoid, but it was loud and annoying.

Search around, a few have tried and abandoned before completion. There is one very successful swap performed by a shop specializing in that engine. They did it as a show piece. There is a tremendous amount of fab involved. RB is far easier, but if you have time and skills I say go for it.

With all the custom work, your guess is as god as mine for what is and is not connected. Have you ran the ground checks from the 280zx service manual?

There were ground wires that attach to the factory manifold, make sure those are grounded. Also, the stock ignitor grounds through the bracket. Make sure you have good ground strap on the engine and that the bracket has a good ground. Injectors are grounded through the ecu, should have +12 on the injectors at the ecu plug.