ctc

I don't think you looked every where on the internet, Start here and read all of the threads on these two pages L-Series Hybridz FAQ Buy, borrow or steal these books, reading is not just for the internet, these will be your Datsun bibles for engine building http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049 My linkhttp://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y Deciede what you want to acheive and work backwards or forwards from there. If you want strong NA motor, build it and when you want to go turbo, sell it and start over. Your best bet is to by an L28ET that is already running, and start there. Whole set up could be had for under $1000 and will most likely be around the same price as swapping pistons into a L28E motor. Now to answer the quetions you asked, Yes stock dish or flat top pistons will work with either N/A or turbo, difference is compression ratio, different tuning will be required. Strong NA and turbo motors are mutually exclusive. Turbo short block run as NA will be down on power. Strong NA motor with turbo will have too high compression for turbo, without proper tuning.

Try these guys, should be able to get you what you need. http://www.otomoto.com.au/ Second link, from VicZCar, BenZed is the owner of shop linked above, I believe http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=4072.0

Depends on piston type forged or cast? You can search here on HybridZ for what clearances to run with cast or forged pistons. Take the pistons to the machine shop with the block. Have the block matched to the pistons, standard practice of any good engine builder / machine shop. I would sonic check the block for cylinder wall thickness when boring over 88mm, but I tend to be conservative.

Search more, there is a thread with pictures and a direct comparison of the pistons you asked about.

Mike, question for you, Do you know if the Paeco part of the cast has anything to do with these guys? Paeco history It was a company owned by Carl Stringfellow and apperently sold parts to SCCA racers. Edit, from this post, at lease the current Paeco knows nothing about this head. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/62691-l6-heads-pics-and-descriptions/

Read this link,Duesenberg head for Jay Leno to give you an idea of low production number casting costs. You can also search on the OS twin cam head to see what they want for their new twin cam head. I'll simplify the quote from about halfway down the article "The new heads look terrific; I bought the first one. They sell for $42,000 each with the valves installed. Jim's not going to make a lot of money on this project. But he's doing something important." I know it's not apples to apples, but cost depends on volume. Also think of it this way, Engineer gets paid ~$50 an hour, Machinist gets ~$20 an hour, Assume 160 engineering hours and double those hours for shop time and you are at $15,000 for a bare casting. I pulled the hours number out of my rear, but they are realistic and represent a months labor by one guy and months worth of shop time for 2 guys. Now add in cams, valves, intakes, exhaust, cooling manifolds, head gaskest......... and the cost adds up pretty quick. Also, try to find a foundary that will even work with such low volume and the cost ussually goes up. Also this discussion on custom cast cylinder heads, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/64439-holy-grail-teaser/page__st__40 My 2 cents on the question asked. Also, I don't want my comments to distract from the brilliance and hard work that has already gone into that head. Looks to be top notch engineering and foundary work. I wish there was some way to produce that head with a realistic price. Maybe those HybridZ'ers with contacts in China could make inquiries.

There is a website Wangan Midnight Expressway, that is dedicated to the manga. It used to have pdf's for download. There are interesting discussions there and even a few hybrid familiar names in the posts. I don't want to get into a purist fight on HybridZ, so make your devil z how you want it. Since we are necro bench racing anyway, my hybrid devil z will be a LS7 powered and an automatic. Insert emoticon here.

Second thought, what is you fuel pump voltage doing at full throttle. Might have pressure, but not flow?

Double check the afm connector and wiring back to the ecu. I had a similar problem on a Bosche L-jet system ( very close to Nissan system), that would cause the ecu to recive a different signal than the afm was putting out. Only found it when we installed a custom break out box at the ecu, to see real time ecu signals. Also might need to ohm out all the afm to ecu wires.

When you say "burning oil" how much consumption are we talking? How many quarts per how many miles? Second question, have you checked for oil dropping onto the exhaust or other hot part? I have had that happen to me. Oil spray onto exhaust from lose banjo when pressure was high, but forward speed prevented visible smoke. Once stopped residue oil burned off, but pressure was too low to squirt. Also, if you do not have the catch can routed back to the intake you have the possibility of smoke. Almost every car that I have owned with just a valve cover breather smoked at one point or another from the breather.

As Blu said, turbo is your best option (L28ET is bolt in) and can be made to live to 250K miles if you buy quality parts and keep the boost at reasonable levels. If you flog anything, it will break at some point. Design the system to handle a certain level of punshiment, that will set the budget. Don't just slam a collection of part together. If you get rid of requirement 2, an LSxx swap will meet pretty much all the other requirements. That will get you closest to your power, MPG and cost goals. It's you car, pick your engine and roll the dice. I would suggest you PM those who have posted swaps you are contmeplating and ask how they like it and what the problems are. And really, if you want S2000 performance, buy one. You will be ahead in the long run. If you want a hobby, swap an engine into a Z.

Yes there is. Two actually. How to rebuild your OHC Datsun engine and How to modify your Datsun OHC engine. Both are excellent.

Sorry, didn't mean to offend with the sob story comment. What I meant was that if you post that you are a college student looking for parts to get your car going again, people may be more inclined to give you a break on pricing. They might even send you what you need for the cost of shipping. I know that has happened on other forums as well as this one. I personally have not run the P79, but my understanding is that it is identical in performance to the P90. The P79 has liners (round ports) that some say wear prematurely in a turbo application and might break off and damage the turbo, but that seems to be internet lore more than fact. If you search here there are some people that have used the P79 in a turbo build, I suggest you look through those threads. Is the head from the old motor bad/warped? Why not just use it. If the problem with the old motor is the bolts into the block. All the other parts should still be ok to use. Take two bad motors and make one good one. Should be up and running for the price of a head gasket and seal kit. My 2 cents...

+1 It has been tried a few times, but I have yet to see anyone succeed. You must have pretty good fabrication skills to even try this. Built a few race car chassis have you? Fitting it to a full tube chassis would be easier. Search around, there is one thread I have seen about swapping in the rear suspension. Required custom rear floor pans and sub-frame.

My eye is untrained, but that looks like other detonation photos posted on here. How long did it run before noticing the "knock"? To save money use the head and pistons from the old motor. You didn't say but I assume they are still good. Other cheap options are a p79 head, cheaper than a p90, and used pistons. Post a sob story in the wanted section and I'm sure someone will help you out.

Did you look in the stickys in the turbo FAQ? The 82/83 diagrams are in there. Your harness has the same connections as my 82/83.

I had that problem and fixed it with a hand drill and harbor freight stud extractor. You might be surprised, you might be able to spin it out with with friction and a drill bit in reverse. Won't hurt to try, just be careful.

You need to fill the pump before bolting it on. If you didn't, put a fitting on the oil pressure tap and shoot oil into the block. That should fill the pump. FYI, you can't prime it like a chevy because the oil pump shaft locks with the crank. Would need to drop the pump to swap shafts and then might as well just prime it.

Might be a silly question, but did you replace the oil pump? If you did replace it, did you prime it properly?

BRAPP did write-up on the L28E vs L28ET. General conclusion was L28ET was slightly larger diameter runners. 1 to 3 mm if I remember correctly. Runners are the restriction for these manifolds not the throttle body. There is some benefit to having a step between the manifold and head as long as the head is larger diameter, but search to find it. There are some pretty big turbo numbers out there on ported stock intakes, but most involved splitting th intake, porting it and welding back together. For your "make shift" setup, stock or hand ported intake (of whatever flavor you have) should handle your needs without spending a lot of time chasing that last 3% of Hp.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/

Oil bypass check valve? Goes under the oil filter, if that's what it is.

Shake magic 8 ball..... Signs point to Yes! If you lock out the Ignition advance.

Deleted. Better info below

Yes, as long as the ECU gets the CAS signal from the crank. Please re-read and understand the L28ET swap sticky. Sounds like your shot gunning parts and not understanding why you need certain parts and what they do. With the '81 harness and ECU, I would just run your exsisting L28 distributor and the CAS on the pully. or, I found this post from Tony D on zcar.com Tony D Emperor Posts: 38793 I'm BAA AAA AAAD! 81CAS « Reply #12 on: July 11, 2005, 02:06:40 AM »81 CAS is totally interchangeable with the 82/83 unit. The 81 CAS has a signal shaping circuit that gives the EXACT same waveform as the later distributor. The 81CAS is magnetic, with waveforem shaping circuitry, the 82/83 is Optical---absolutely correct assumption.