ctc

Learn CAD and MATLab well. They will take you far.

As an engineer in the R&D test world, I would caution these methods like all tools need to be used properly. A lot of times the why is is not asked, because knowledge is lacking. My managers love to use the tools wrongly to justify the answers they already want to hear. We call it a budgeted witch hunt. The line about doing your work is the most appropriate. I don't know how many times I've ask senior engineers (I'm almost one myself, age wise too), why aren't we doing it "x" way and they hand me a twenty year old report of why it didn't work. Basic fundimentals can solve 90% of problems in my humble opinion.

It always amazes me what free time and a welder can produce.

As an AE with almost 20 years in field, I agree with clarkspeed. The job market is super tough right now. Aerospace job market is contracting and my company will hardly talk to anyone without experience. No experience, you better have really good references and or a personal contact. We just turned down an interview with a student who spent his summer building race trucks. Great skills, but no aerodynamic or CAD experience equals no interview. Harsh, but thems the breaks. We have one opening for every ten college grads we get resumes from. Just a data point, for what it's worth.

Is the 3mm ground concentric to the journal or offset? You most likely have a P30 crank with 3mm more stroke from offset grinding. P30's are a lot easier to come by than the diesel cranks these days. Run your set up through the OZ dat engine calculator http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ And see if you have a stroker or not. Looks like a 3 liter kit to me.

Can you post the results? Would like to see the levels.

Might try this site for help www.skylinesaustralia.com Would most likely have more experience with l20et

You might PM johnc. He has posted pics of a knifed edged crank on here. Don't know if it is his engine. There are a couple people on here with knife edged cranks, you might want to search them out.

Google around, there are pictures out there. Also you could try to contact Allan (sp) Thomas on this site or classiczcars.com. I forget his forum name at the moment.

Rather than welding, can you drill a bolt for a set screw or shear pin and then drill the nipple for a corresponding hole? That would allow you to pin the bolt in place and get a socket on the end.

Big vise grips?

Might also look at this solution http://community.ratsun.net/topic/5294-su-air-cleaners-for-a-ratsun-price/ And pipercross has an SU box that is only 40mm thick http://www.pipercross.net/competition/products_px500.asp

Third photo down. http://www.britishv8.org/triumph/glennmerrell.htm Stock Stag brake and clutch, do you have room off the SU's to turn 90 deg forward and then a cone filter? Maybe the front turn back 90 deg and route both to one filter?

Maybe something like this. Don't know the Datsun bore diameter off hand, but should not be hard to find. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection3.asp?utm_expid=10520551-7&Product=3507&utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pegasusautoracing.com%2Fgroup.asp%3FGroupID%3DMCTILT

Pictures would be helpful. Would a remote reservoir for the clutch master cylinder help?

The KA is a nice swap, but you still need the L series bellhousing. If switching from auto to the KA, you would need both manual transmissions, not just one. There are also some minor internal mods to get the KA to work with the L series bell housing. I have both transmissions in my garage. Z32 5sp as well that will eventually go behind my L28ET.

Once you source the pedals and master cylinder for the Stag, the rest will be all Datsun. You will obviously need a custom line from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Your pedals will be the hard part, the rest is on the level of swapping a clutch. Measure your driveshaft and post here. There is no telling what is in your car. Could be early, late or custom. Note: it can be less messy if you drain the manual trans before install, then fill it. Or get a tail shaft plug.

You could also tap them and use a pipe plug.

2.893 litres with the Ozdat calculator.

Try to find those engines in SoCal. I agree they are out there but not at that price. Or you have to wait around awhile to find one. At least we don't have snow. Francisco, Don't get me wrong I like strokers, I spent close to $7,000 on my stroker and am now on a turbo motor. If I had the $7,000 straight up for improvements on the turbo L28, I would be a lot farther ahead. Get an aftermarket ECU sorted out on the L28ET, before you look for more displacement. Small steps and keep the car drivable, you will enjoy it more.

Don't do the stroker. I started that way and now have the turbo. Money better spent upgrading the turbo.

I may need to post picture to explain, but the location where the oil pickup mounts to the block is different on the L28E and the L20ET. This is the pad you will need to have drilled. If you just drill the L28E block for the front dipstick mount you will drill into the main oil galley between the pick up and the pump. The proper thing to do, is to drill the front oil pickup location on the L28E, install a plug between the original L28E pick up location and the new one you had drilled. The drill the front dipstick mount on the L28E. As I indicated, I took a different route as I didn't have access to a machine shop. I will post a pic in a little while, but there are plenty of pics showing the oil pump pickup locations already on this sight.

I just swapped a L28ET into my GC110 Skyline. It was easier for me to modify the oil pick up tube to work with the front sump and not drill the pad on the L28ET block. I plugged the rear dipstick hole on the L28 and drilled a new hole one into the side of the block to work with the front sump. I used an aftermarket universal style dipstick. Incase you didn't know the l28et and l28e blocks are functionally the same.

Someone had a thread on here a few months back about being pulled over for non-stock exhaust. They had swapped in an RB and the exhaust was loud and obvious. Got a ticket to go to the Ref. They paid the fine instead, $700 I think, and DMV was non-the-wiser. Your issue will be bringing it from out of state. That requires smog and DMV VIN inspection. You didn't mention your year, 75 and older the DMV inspector most likely will not care what engine the car has. 76 and newer you are most likely SOL.

You might just want to make a new oil pick-up tube for the L28. It is consideraly less work than boring a block. I have an L28ET in my Skyline that I coverted to front sump. We now return you to the L20 thread you were reading.