ctc

My understanding is incorrect! is that valve is temperature activated not pressure. It was used to speed warm up of the engine then closes as coolant temp comes up. It was described in one of the "do I loop my heater outlet" threads. I will double check my FSM when I get home.

Yup, that's why I'm only interest IF it has a rack. I have the drag link version in my Skyline but a Fairlady rack is a nice upgrade with a little work. Didn't want to get into the whole ball vs rack discussion in the thread.

If it has a power rack I would be interested in that part only, but not the whole car.

Keep us posted and/or start a build thread. Just by trying to explain it to others you figure a lot of things out. Those are the face palm moments.

Given the distance and the fact that it is an 81, here is what I would do.... Get mega squirt up and running on the L28E. This will get you over the wiring hurdle. It's not worth buying the turbo block without ALL the accessories (ecu, wire harnesses, coil, AFM). The L28E will handle low boost fine and will not need the lower compression of the turbo dished pistons. With engine management complete, find a turbo exhaust manifold and turbo, should only be a couple hundred dollars if you keep you eyes open. A little exhaust work, some intake piping and retune the software and there is your turbo setup. Next step is an intercooler and a boost controller and you are right where you want to be.

Since you are asking for suggestions, so first thing is to research on how stout the stock bottom end is both turbo and NA. Most engines will not require a re-build just to put on a turbo at low boost levels. As for the swap The wiring change to incorporate the L28ET, would IMHO, be significant enough that you wouldn't "go back" easilly if the swap doesn't go as planned. I would take one of two paths. 1) Buy a complete L28ET swap, that doesn't need a rebuild (most don't). Complete the swap and get it running. Then rebuild the L28E for turbo work as time and money permit. That will be the back-up plan. 2) Invest in a MegaSquirt or similar aftermarket ECU, wire it into the 76 using the L28E to get it working. Now purchase the parts to do a staged build of a turbo motor. At that point you will have the engine management to control whatever level of power you want to push it to. Engine management will be the key to any power level you would like to achieve.

Ecu, cam and head work would be where I go next. Also read up on the #5 cooling thread. For those power levels you are going to need some additional cooling to make it live.

Did a quick measurement on mine. Aisin impeller diameter measured 2.958" (75.133mm). It would not fit two stock covers I have. Impeller would contact the 7 o'clock area by the water inlet (?). For comparison, my stock pump impeller measured 2.741" (69.621mm) and spun freely. Mine have the grind marks as well. Looks like they ground off a previous serial number or manufacturer name.

So, if I understand, in July you paid X amount to the DMV and left with a one day tag to get your smog completed and a piece of paper that said fees paid. I assume you got that smog and then returned to the DMV to complete the registration process, correct? I also assume that while you where at the DMV you gave them your current address and contact info. A month later, the DMV withdraws penalty fees and you are upset. First, are you sure DMV didn't send you anything? Second, did you get anything in writing that said you didn't have to pay the back fees. I would talk with the supervisor at DMV that waived the back fees. Most likely Sacramento reversed that supervisor. Or you current registration is in the mail!

Curious when this is going to the tool shed, now that we are in fantasy bench racing land. I called a shop specializing in installing wet sleeves and was quoted around $6k for the block work alone, welded like mentioned above. For the coin one would drop on a "hybrid" engine such as this you could get proven power from someone like Rebello or PCM. Some like doing it the hard way, but maybe we should do our thinking in the shed from here on out.

Did you ohm out the new plug wires?

. If you are now talking turbo RB swap, the same money in an L28ET swap with head work will get you a lot farther.

Only reason in my opinion to destroke am L series engine is for class rules or you have the parts laying around. Bob Sharp did this back in the day to get 2.5 liters. Again my opinion, but on anything but a race engine limited by class rules these minor "tweaks" like square bores, rod/stoke length, this crank or that piston does not really matter. Like all engines, power is in how the engine breaths (airflow) and compression. For the L series, head work and compression will get you power on whatever bottom end you build.

I Think he means the e31 head from the 71 l24.

In all my searching l28 blocks are much more abundant than l24 blocks. i' ve got three in my garage i got free for hauling them away. For around $200 you should be able to get an l28 block that will take the 89mm pistons. Just have to look.

Have you check the resistance on the AFM for a dead spot? What about vacuum leaks?

Only way to register mine was to pull the JDM engine and install a USDM one. Being 1977, it was the only way to get smog compliance. I went L28ET because it was bolt-in and maintained the JDM vintage flavor where a V6 or V8 would not in my opinion. DMV had no problem with the VIN because it was past the 25 year federal import regs. They just wanted smog compliance.

Have you run the troubleshooting procedures in the FSM or are you shot gunning parts?

I am going through this on a 1977 Skyline that I am putting a L28ET into. Ref indicated that donor engine has to be from a CA emissions car. He needed proof of donor cars VIN. Best is to have the donor registered in your name and recently smogged, then show you removed the engine and disposed of the shell. You will need to help the ref out by having all the required information to explain that you know and understand the BAR regulations. By this I mean have the FSM emissions pages and be fluent in what emissions equipment is on the L28ET. Or find a shop to run the traps for you. Choice is time or money. FYI, whatever way you go, the local ref will need to push a special case like this through the main office. The ref will wait for direction before okaying any mods you plan to do. Took about four weeks for the ref to get direction from the main office, then it's been back and forth on what specific parts I need to bring over from the donor.

Have you down loaded the 81 FMS? Do you get power through the EFI relay in the run position and while cranking? cgsheen got in before me.

Was going too say on pavement that would be inpressive. Off road it comes from having a locker and suddenly gaining a lot of traction like bouncing a tire at max rev. Tire and axle stop, engine doesn't. Drive shaft or ring gear become weakest link.

I've done that on my 4x4 before. Wall mount for sure, unless you need the ends. Time for a carbon fiber one!

Double check your head gasket thickness as well if you changed it. That can cause contact on a tightly clearanced engine. When I built my stroker, I had to recut the pistons because of an error in compressed gasket thickness.

Don't know if you found this in your searching, but good description of what goes into driving the crank harmonics. They can also direct you to what damper and frequencies you need to address. You might want to give them a call. http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=4 I should also add that you need to be careful when applying American V8 tech to these engines. Mass produced Chevy's and Ford's are different animals compared to a long inline 6 cylinder with much different design principles. Use your V8 knowledge at your own risk with these engines. Some areas it applies, some it does not.

Go to the BHJ damper site and read all about it. Dampers on a datsun are for torsion issues (harmonics) on a properly balanced (rotational mass) crank. There are many threads here about the BHJ dampers and how they work as well. Saying what others are saying, stupid phone clipped the last few posts.