RebekahsZ

I have an LS2, but I have a camaro LS1 pan (I changed it). I like a flexible flat black airdam to make loading on the trailer easier ( I smack it ever time). My airdam wouldnt stop a rock. I made my cattle catcher solid and immoveable. Photos when back from welder. The rain FINALLY stopped so I can take him the car.

It is my understanding that you are gonna go thru everything you are now if you go with a short nose (lack of compatable stub axles and half-shafts). The R200 swap is proven and simple. If you go to a long nose R200, you will need to shorten your current driveshaft, or just buy one from JCI ($235?). I would avoid MM if you are already frustrated enough (unless you are into that sort of thing). Buy your 4-bolt companion flanges from Chequered Flag Racing, unless JMortensen still has some. What outer stub axle do you have (the one that goes thru the hub and gets torqued to over 200#)? It sucks you are going thru this, but if you got that car for the advertised price or less, you still got a good deal. So, hang in there. It's only money and you can't take it with you and the government won't let you pass it to your kids. In this country it is best to be "disabled" or plausibly destitute. Spend it all, then you can have 39% of mine. From what I hear I don't deserve it anyway.

By my measurements, I recommend reducing to 4" sump. Mine hangs to 1.5" below the crossmember. I measured with a pair of bubble levels and a straight edge..

On my z-car, the rear of the diff is mounted via the thin aluminum rear cover with just 2 studs screwed into it. The rear diff cover is held to the diff case with about 10 bolts that are torqued to like 12 foot pounds. My RT mount bolts to super thin sheetmetal in the tranny tunnel. Honestly, the stock diff mounting system is not real impressive, yet mine hasn't broken (neither has jnjdragracing with his wheelstands). I think SUNNYZ's system is gonna be fine. How about you guys get your welding machines out and build something or leave a brother alone while he toils away! I just hope he makes it cheap so we can do a group buy.

When did hybridz.org become hybridz.facebook? I thought it said "can't lick paste." My bad.

First place to check is the circuit breakers. There is one circuit breaker that tends to overheat and melt in the 240z-that killed most of the lights in my car. You will see a lot of early z's in junk yards with burned up circuit breaker housings and that is what killed it for mine. Had to external wire that circuit breaker and that fixed it! Good luck, I feel your pain.

You did good getting an R200 with axles for that price! You really want the 4-bolt axles and you will need companion flanges to match. You (may) need to shorten the zx-t axles. The only way to know is to go thu the axle length verification process that I have described. I really think the smartest way to verify that the set up is the correct length is to check with the CV boots pushed up on the shafts so you can actually look down into the outer CV housing to be sure. Some cars need shortened axle shafts and some don't. If you need shortened shafts, I'd put out a parts wanted post fishing for forum members who bought JMoretensen's shortened shafts but never got around to using them-I'm sure you understand that a lot of folks can get burned out on these projects! The zx-t axle shafts don't "float;" they are fixed axially in the inner CV and all the dynamic length adjustability happens only at the outer CV - there is a lot less movement in the system. I'm hitting mine with slicks, a T56 with a stock LS2 and so far, so good.

You really can't worry about how your car lines up to the fenders-your fenders have been cut and aftermarket flares have been installed. For rideheight, the best place to measure is the bottom of the rocker panels because that is a straight line. Plus 1/2 inch isn't gonna make or break you. My car isn't "square" at the fenders either and even my un-modified S10 truck isn't "square" from the factory. If you run out of interest in he diff/axle system that you have, the basic R200 system is a good option and is much simpler than what you have suffered thru. I've been in your situation and I feel your frustration-it is torture.

If you decide to remote your valve cover breathers, I have a nice aluminum Moroso puke tank you can have for the cost of mutual respect, shipping included.

So far no problems in the battery location, although my car doesn't see much rain and I rarely wash it. I have my PCM mounted to the inner fender with 4 sheetmetal screws using short pieces of rubber fuel hose as cushions. At least that keeps it under the little inspection lid and out of the rain, plus it is off the "floor." My thought was that by keeping all the wiring on the engine side of the firewall, it would be easier to disconnect from the chassis and pull the engine wiring harness and the engine as a unit for future servicing. I LOVE using "weather pack" connectors for all my wiring jobs.

I am having a 3/16" thick, 1.5" tall wedge-shaped "cattle catcher" welded onto the bottom of my front crossmember in order to deflect any rocks or beer bottles that I may encounter in the road or on the track. I already have a few marks on my LS1 Camaro oilpan, which hangs 1/5" below the crossmember with the JCI mount system. Luckily none of the impacts have been of sufficient force to cause a breakage.

That's incredible!

Think about where the balls are in the cage, relative to the end of your available travel (with your mind: make the CV housings see-thru). You've had it apart, so you know what things look like. Then, relax your springs either by lowering your coilover collar, or by taking the suspension apart and removing the springs and re-assembling without springs. Then, disconnect your CV axles at the outboard end (near the hub). Put a jack under your spindle pins. Put one hand on the outer CV and one hand on the jack handle. Jack the suspension all the way up, wiggling the CV as you go. Honestly, the gap should change very little. If you run out of wiggle room (no gap), the axle is too long. If the gap becomes excessive (you will have to imagine where the balls are), then your axle is too short. If you are unsure if the axle is too short, push the CV boot up the axle so you can actually see where the balls are with your eyes. If all the clearances check out, replace the boot and bolt up the axle, replace your spring and go do some burn-outs.

I put my PCM in the battery location since my battery is in the trunk/hatch. See my thread, there should be photos.

You guys live in NJ/NY! Why do you need A/C? Traffic? I don't have mufflers, heater or wipers and I'm fine-you need to move to where it is warmer, kinder and gentler. I'm more interested in where to put a gun rack than where to put an A/C system!

You are doing such a nice job on the chassis, you owe it to yourself to skip straight to an lsx motor. Super jealous of your cage.

Super sweet!

Super nice looking cars. I'm a fan of silver.

It's never finished, is it? Glad you've got it running.

I THINK in the stock LS vehicle, the low-speed fan comes on at 210 and the high speed fan doesn't come on until 239. If you only have one fan, it is usually wired to the low-speed wire. I think these engines were made to run hot.

Finished the front droop limiter brackets (will take to be welded on Monday). Finished frame rail reinforcement plates/jacking points. Removed straight "cattle catcher" to protect oilpan and fabbed a triangular cattle catcher (to pitch road debris to the side rather than trappping it under my front crossmember. Cleaned garage. Helped my buddy with his AC Cobra replica. Took my daughter to supper. Tomorrow is to put together sketches for driveshaft loop to take to my fabricator so he can get all the welding done for me when I drop car off for the week. Big goal for tomorrow is to put together my exhaust parts list.

There has been a mustache bar on ebay within the last week. See if it is still out there.

Looking good!

I just went out to my car and did some measuring. The top of my welded-on seat for the threaded collar is at 6" above the junction of the strut tube and the cast-iron portion at the bottom. My threaded collars are 5" tall. My front springs are 8" tall in the relaxed position and are 225# rate. There is approximately 1" of strut tube visible above the threaded collar. This was a great combination when I had stock top-hat insulators like you are using. With my tire tucked nicely into the wheelwell with about 5" ground clearance at the front of the rocker panel, the lower seat was positioned right in the middle of the adjustment range. No coil binding or bottom-out. Now that I have camber plates (which have a much thinner upper spring seat) my car is too low even if I adjust the lower seat to the top of the collar. So, I just ordered new 10" springs from johnc at Betamotorsports (support your hybridz vendors!) to re-center my lower seat on the threaded collar at the same ride height. When folks buy from z-specialty guys like johnc, or Ground Control you are more likely to have a plug-and-play, trouble-free install; when you buy from "coilovers.com" hoping to save a few bucks there is no telling what you will get (pay-me now or pay-me later). Hope my measurements help to confirm what you have put together. That is one very strong styrofoam cooler! And, your conversion looks super clean.

You are an ANIMAL! And, you must like spagetti...