RebekahsZ

Coffee as a Hollywood sex symbol. I'll watch THAT movie!

Or use a center punch at 6:00 on the face of the drum about 5/8" from the rolled edge. Then drill a 5/8" hole in the face of the drum to get to the adjustment mechanism if you can't fix it thru the backing plate. A screwdriver thru that hole should release the mechanism. Then you can re-use the drum. The hole won't hurt it a bit. I've personally used each of the techniques I'm promoting.

Just hit the damn thing harder.

The adjuster hole is at the bottom. Put some penetrating oil around the hub/drum interface. Then use a heavy rubber dead low hammer to strike HARD on the drum at the point where the flat face rolls toward the fins. Right at that rolled portion. Hit it like you hate it. What have you got to lose?

Wow-looks great!

OK, its (NV3500) not the best transmission in the world compared to more expensive options. If you can get a T56 Magnum from somewhere like Rockland Standard Gear and have them put an F-body shifter extension on it, you can't beat that. I'm sure the NV3500 shifter is gonna come out of the console closer to the radio than the F-body T56. I guess it all depends on what you want. My next Z (I've got a line on another car in 2 weeks), will have a custom trans tunnel to allow me to alternate between a Powerglide and a Liberty DR5 clutchless. If the trans in my truck (NV3500) pukes, I'm gonna replace it with a T56 Magnum. But, it is doing fine with the NV3500 so far. I even drove it 2 hours with no oil in it. I then added oil and its doing fine. Is it the best (?)-no. Is it better than the VW bug I grew up driving-hell yeah! Maybe you guys should look in to old Muncie transmissions-there used to be tons of them around. You guys gotta remember that while your engine may make 350hp at 5200rpm, how much time do you really spend at 5200rpm? Almost none. You don't need a million-dollar tranny, so don't neglect any tranny that will fit. Look into whatever tranny the old Scarab was built around and see how they got the shifter to come into the tunnel in the proper place. Having something that fits the car is way more important than having a tranny with some fantasy torque capacity.

I have run the solid/delrin bushings. They are fine in the front, but they are SO loud in the rear, under your arse. They sound like rocks in a barrel banging around. Forget driving on a gravel road and keeping your teeth in your head. I went back to poly.

You guys really know how to beat a guy down; no good dead goes unpunished. OP, I will try to order a set from your vendor-it never hurts to have an extra set of a rare part laying around. Thank you for posting.

Thanks for keeping us updated-I'm hoping to copy you in a couple years.

Good grief! It may be time to move this thread over to the suspension (tires) forum. Guys, the way you hook up with an LS is not related to tire size. It's controlled by your right foot and maybe your left foot. It's not size that matters, it's what you do with it! I used to do smoky donuts in a 40hp VW for goodness sake!

Here are a couple I'm considering if buying new: http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Ingersoll-Rand-2475N7.5-Air-Compressor/p707.html http://www.bendpak.com/Air-Compressors/LS580V-601 Off to ebay and craigslist to see what is out there. Learning about these rotary-style compressors is interesting. However, I am somewhat constrained by space. Most of them have horizontal tanks. I'm wondering what my options are to slim them up to fit in my assigned space.....my assigned space has the following measurements: _____ wide, _______ deep, ______tall (to be filled in tomorrow). Here are a few examples I found: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polar-Air-Eaton-Compressor-7-5HP-Single-Phase-Rotary-Screw-W-60-Gallon-Tank-/361484736083?hash=item542a2b5653:m:mJYjaYDlLbUqUvUQSSJs44Q http://www.ebay.com/itm/QUINCY-ROTARY-SCREW-COMPRESSOR-40-HP-AIR-END-REBUILD-/161354568956?hash=item25917b54fc:g:4pkAAOSwirZTsw~y http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPAIR-ROTARY-SCREW-COMPRESSOR-15-HP-AIR-END-REBUILD-/161354567315?hash=item25917b4e93:g:RvIAAOSwh6xTsw9L http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-Copco-10-HP-Base-Mounted-Rotary-Screw-Air-Compressor-208-230-460-3-60-/121725545673?hash=item1c57686cc9:g:SsAAAOSwMmBVxh3E I'm not seeing a tank on a lot of these....I really think I goofed when I built the shop, having only enough space to go with an upright piston-compressor.

Lifts are on a flatbed somewhere between California and Alabama! Installation is scheduled for Feb 18. I can barely contain myself! Now to get a compressor ordered.

I put my OBD port between the passengers knees just sheet metal screwed to the bottom of the dash. You will need access to this port during tuning and trouble shooting and you will need somewhere to lay down your laptop. Your pedal bracket is beautiful! WAIT to do your flares till you have car on the ground at ride height with your ultimate suspension and the wheels/tired you plan to run. Leave room for suspension travel. Many guys mount them too low because they have the wheels off the ground when they mark.

Have you considered the trusty T5? You won't be at 400hp on a 100% duty cycle. I bet it would hold up fine. And the car may have come with one.

Can't wait to see this at ZAttack!

I run a Borla XR-1 oval 3" straight thru in the stock location on my Z. It is more quiet than my truck which runs a 3" Magnaflow, which has to be turned off going thru a drivethru for my order to be heard.

Red glass pack so you can run a Cherry Bomb or Clay Smith sticker without feeling like a poser.

That would be so hard in the rain!

Since your car is down for the engine work: order the tires, have them mounted on your existing wheels and see how they fit. The only thing you lose is the mounting fee, and a few scratches on your rims. I have a buddy with a 350/350 280Z who runs 26"X10" slicks on 15X8 wheels on stock springs with un-cut fenders and he only scrapes sometimes...on the tread, not the sidewall. I think he's crazy. And I spank him even when he red-lights. He's usually had a few drinks, so he has an excuse. He just blew up his second open diff. Its the cross-shaft that keeps failing, then he locks up the diff and snaps a half-shaft and all hell breaks loose. He told me he really made a mess of it earlier this fall.

EasTnZ- I usually get my slicks from either Summit or Jegs (depending on which has free shipping at the time) or MacCormick Racing. With the 26" slick, you will likely just barely shift into 4th before the finish line. With 28" slicks I can stay in 3rd but its a little down in the rpm range. I found some discontinued 27" slicks that I will try, hoping to be right on the shift light going thru the timers in 3rd. Unfortunately, the 8.5 is the only tire that I can fit inside stock fenders. I tried going up to a 9" slick and the carcass is just wide enough to rub-and the sidewall on a slick is like paper thin-no rubbing allowed! You can't judge at static ride height whether a slick is gonna rub or not-the car will really squat under traction when you drop the clutch as all 2600-ish pounds rocks back onto the rear wheels. And there are guys in the 8s in the quarter on 8.5" slicks. Its not the width, its the compound that makes you hook up. And a little spin without wheel hop is your best friend.

Pm me, this isn't my thread.

Send a pic of your MaxJax?

Ok, thanks. I have no opinion on street tires-too many different options to consider.

Would you consider getting another slip yoke to try? At least that would prove if your current slip yoke is bad.... I ran my fuel pump power wire directly off the battery. The switching wire was the yellow one off the LS computer. I can't recall if that yellow wire is a gound or a power, but I used it to activate a fuel pump relay. I didn't know what a relay was before my engine swap!

Yes, it is. That's a good one. Barks and bangs some, but that's a good one.