RebekahsZ

No. Windshield and dash are out for cage upgrade. Door bars have to be removed prior to taking to cage guy and he had a backlog. Working on hot rod (1931 Ford coupe) mostly. I bought a mig welder and Im practicing. Once I feel like mig is good I will get a tig and get good with it. Target date got 200mph attention is 2020. Had such a great evening with you and your wife. Very impressive couple.

It never ceases to amaze me how much of a unibody S30 can be cut away without affecting it structurally! Your car is awesome-maybe better than before. Makes me wanna go run my car into some pea gravel and a safety net!

Wow! Awesome.

My old 240z never had retractible belts so I don't miss them-unless a passenger dings the rocker with them or slams them in the door.

Your solution is fine. Most of the time a little firewall flex is tolerable and most folks don't know if their car has any or not. The symptom I was having was insufficient clutch master cylinder stroke (because the firewall was moving away from my foot about 1/4 inch) and my push rod was just barely long enough. My support rods from the firewall to the inner fender fixed my poor disengagement problem. But the real problem was that my clutch push rod was too short. When I lengthened that, the problem of insufficient stroke was REALLY fixed, and I'm pretty sure that my clutch would have disengaged better and the firewall reinforcement might not have been necessary. Be confident in yourself. Lots of folks think that their way is the ONLY way. But whatever works is ok by me, and your car. If one thing doesn't work, keep at it til you win.

I have done something similar and been running it for years. Your solution looks good. My 240z had lots of firewall flex. I used rod ends and tubes to do essentially the same thing.

I used the JCI kit on my build and the install was straight forward. But I would use the Hoke kit if I were building now. Mainly because it leaves better clearance for turbo piping. I think your car looks fantastic. I'm now having to retrofit a cage in. Wish I had done it first.

Buy JOE's stuff-done.

Following

Thank you!

I'm gonna love you. What type of geometry do you plan for the rear suspension?

KAZU-would you be willing to post up the part numbers and sources for the pinto bumpsteer adjusters and the reemer that you used to open up the hole in the knuckle? And how do you know when to stop reeming-how deep to you go with the tapered reemer?

Dave at AZC has produced a bumpsteer kit for our cars and I just bought one. Since I spent all that time getting my front alignment "right," these will sit on the shelf for a while while I work on other aspects of the car. But here is a photo of the kit. Note: the inner tie rods are not part of the kit. These are Rare Parts PN: RP26575, which are both RH threads, so you need to request RH thread outer tie rods from Dave when you order your bumpsteer kit. I have these inner tie rods on my 240z and they fit great. Also of note: the bumpsteer adjuster is made too long on purpose with the expectation that you will trim off excess threads for wheel clearance after bumpsteering the car. The quick steer knuckles are sold separately.

I get a little oil leakage up thru the Allen bolt. Just a bit that I have to wipe off from time to time.

26-28psi, maybe(?)

I so totally wish I had gone this route.

Disregard-I found my courage and pushed from the top corner and it popped right out!

It's been 20+ years since I pulled this windshield last. Any tips? At which corner should I start pushing?

The wiring you will need is a fuse panel for items that you want got all the time, items got only with key on, and a ground. You will need relays for fans and fuel pump. Those are the car side of things that you will need regardless of what you do with the engine harness.

Sold off the gray 280z this morning. Making room for winter work on the blue car.

Celine Dion.

Yeah, just put more air in the rear tires and less in the fronts.

A Z handles best with equal tire size (height, width, weight) front and back. Any change from that is for looks, or is because you need to run whatever tires fit your car or budget. I run smaller tires on the front because I like how it looks. Name it and claim it.

That's right, Dave! And I peeled the zccjdm.com sticker off of it and forgot-74_, that's where my spoiler came from.

It is either a Retrospec "Downforce" spoiler or a clone. Mike Kelly had one on "Sasha-Gray." It had no mounting system, just a big plug of CF. I put aluminum rivet nuts in it and bolted thru the rear deck skin to mount it. Mine was warped and stands off the passenger fender about an inch while the driver side hits the fender and dings the paint. As a compromise, I made a thick gasket a sheet of 1/4" rubber from the local gasket and o-ring company to space the spoiler off, then put high density foam under the ends to take up the air space. There was a thread earlier this year by a guy who was upset because of poor composite part quality. I'm afraid it is what it is. We can either bitch about it, make parts ourselves, or learn to make aftermarket parts work.