clarkspeed

That is interesting. In my old car I had a cage build out of aluminum angle iron. I had a dude where I used to work tig it all up. It was beautiful, strong, and light and dropped right off with 4 bolts. I don't have the luxury of a full weld/fab/machine shop anymore. So steel for now, fast and easy. I may regret it later.

That header is gorgeous! I think you would have a hard time doing 2 v-bands with it because of clearance. I think slip on collector with v-band downstream. Plus the collector needs to be a certain distance from the valves for max extraction, which is probably just after the 2 pipes terminate. You can search for it. The stroker for vintage depends on the rules which you will probably break with that crank. If you race as an IMSA GTU, no problem, 3.0 is allowed. Otherwise, you will want an org that does not care about such trivial things.

Yes all Jon said above. I normally use black button head Allen screws with lock nuts and washer under nut. 10-32 I think or 8's I can't remember. Whatever you do don't tighten too much. Just snug.

I just looked for a local plastic and composite retailer. 4x4 will not work, must be 4x8 for the front. Most people that sell that kind of stuff can order any thickness. Start with little oversize on the cut out and slowly work your way down by fitting and sharpie marks. You can trim with a sander, die grinder, or skill saw or all 3. Once you work with it you will want to use the stuff everywhere. Trick with windshield is try to get perfectly smooth transition to metal for least wind resistance.

Yea, weight is a struggle for me as well. It's hard to tell what is added vs. Subtracted on my hack job. My shell with cage weighed 500lb before I started. When I take it off the stand I will weigh again. I can comment on the Lexan. I always do mine myself. I buy 1/8 generic polycarbonate, I think SCCA requires thicker. Cut it to a pattern little oversize of an old windshield makes it little easier. I trim the edges down until the face is just flush with metal. Spray paint a 2" flat black ring around the inside perimeter. My new process is to drill the mount screws and mount with a little spacer out of vacuum hose to get the right height. Use lock nuts.. Tape up the outside very well to seal to the window frame and tape 3 or 4 inches on the inside. Spray foam insulation around the inside. Trim it along with the inside tape. 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the screws to lock solid. If done correct you can't see anything from outside and about a 1/2 foam filled gap on inside. Polycarbonate is very easy to work with, you can't crack it. I don't think mine has any fancy coatings. As long as you are careful cleaning it with right products and don't get any chemicals on ti, it will last a long time. Not like you are dirt track racing or something. And if you need to bend it 45 or 90 degrees just heat it up carefully. Too hot and it will bubble.

The radiator will have a serious slant forward. So it looks like the shroud will not be very large. I thought aluminum but it is still open for now. It has to slot into the opening in the Gnose. I gotta get it off the rotisserie and fit the nose to figure it out. I am more worried about getting engine air and oil cooler air. Each side of the shroud I hope?

The G-nose came with this crazy body kit I bought. It is exactly 4" wider than stock to match the 2" extended fenders. I decided to do the dam in glass to match what everyone was running back in the day. Like the BSR cars and Frisselle. It needed a few curves here and there that I could not get with pure aluminum fab. And if you have ever seen aluminum air dams, they look little getto. Funny that a lot of people did that back in the day too. My overall idea was to incorporate a lexan lower strip on the bottom that I could adjust up or down to achieve the lowest possible clearance. Lexan is the perfect material for the bottom of an air dam.

These are some pics on progress with the air dam. I kept looking at this wide body G-Nose trying to figure out a way to create a mold. Then I realized it is a fairly simple shape and if I took a sheet of thin aluminum I could hand roll it to get the correct contour. And even better, it would be a nice smooth finish to pull the final part without much correction. I ended up using 2 sheets riveted together so there is a small crease in the middle. I am smoothing the crease with body filler and rounding the corners so there is a nice smooth transition when I lay the cloth. As you can see I laid a ton of glass for this mold and added big cardboard ribs to make it rigid. I figure I will pull 2 or 3 air dams to start but it will always be available to pull more. I have been working on it on the side while I am trying to finish up other stuff. Dirty work.

I agree, mechanically, most of the parts last an exceptionally long time, even when abused. L6 engine with efi and all other. But it is a really old car now. Electrical things deteriorate over time. Electro-mechanical wear is an issue and unless preserved in a low humidity environment, corrosion at every connection. 98% of the time it is something simple to fix by troubleshooting with FSM, but sometimes, it will be very difficult to diagnose.

I laid out the entire electrical system in PowerPoint and put together a bill of material. I will purchase most from Waytek. I highly recommend. But I had a few surplus spare parts I loaded it with for the photo.

I loaded the switch panel with switches that light whan energized and circuit breakers.

Here are some shots of my test parts. It looks like most of my tolerances are around 0.010". I am starting an upgrade to hopefully bring that in. My goal is at least center drill hole locations within a few thousands. Surface finish can be as good as you want . The pics all all rough cuts without a finishing pass.

Another post. Getting much closer to my current state on the car. These photos show the electrical panel I 3d printed, tabs everywhere to secure wiring, window supports, panel to mount all the electrical components, and a pic of my messy shop.

Tell me about it. For my build I am trying to do all the work ahead of the spend. I only purchase parts that I need to weld around. My goal is to get to a completion state where I only need to final assemble and wire it up. I have this huge list of parts I will pull the trigger on as soon as I sell my other car. Most of that is shocks, wheels, tires, and gauges. But I am trying not to sell it so I can still race until this one is finished. That cross over point is getting closer. I am still not sure what I am going to do with the motor yet, but I have a few options.

Yea, I could see 320 duration as giving some vacuum issues. Then again, take my TPS values, they should get you close. Much of the low RPM, Iow load stuff is just to get it cranked easy. I recently purchased a 14point7 system to tie in with my data logger. I have not used it yet, but it was recommended to me buy a reputable tuner. The Innovate stuff is good too, but as in previous posts, goes back to how much data you want to collect and what do you want to collect it with.

Hell yes!

My 2 cents. You will probably learn just as much on the Megasquirt site as any book will give you. It is very extensive. I'm not sure you really need a TPS for ignition, most racers just run RPM (mechanical) advance. But I always liked adding some load advance because it does make things a little smoother on throttle transition and makes it "snappy" at throttle tip in. I would think you generate plenty of vacuum with SU's so a MAP sensor may be better than TPS for load? I don't know. I don't have any vacuum so I must use TPS for load. I run a curve similar to below with my EFI system. Pretty standard stuff, 32 degrees all in a 2750. I played with timing on the dyno and didn't get any real gains. More benefits playing with cam timing. You can convert my tps numbers to a % if you want. Should get you in ball park. Theoretically 12.5:1 is air/fuel for most power. I have always found 12.7-12.8 to work best and that is what I shoot for. Dial it in for full throttle at the dyno, but get a data logging O2 system so you can continue to fine tune it at events. I gradually fine tune low rpm and part throttle stuff over time or if you feel a stumble somewhere. Maybe you will get some better answers than mine. May need to post in L6 forum.

Here are some pics of the fuel cell area. The boxed in rear section was already in the car so I just made the panels to finish it out. I also fabricated a cage that will bolt from the bottom and has a removable top section.

Here are some photos of the body panels as I did a wheel check. These are 15x8 wheels with a 235-50-15 tire. I am planning on running 15x10 so it will be close. I really like this body kit, it is basically stock fenders extended out 2". It came with a cowl induction hood, G-nose, and a whale tail. I will run the G-nose with a custom air dam. I will probably sell the cowl hood. And I may consider the whale tail later.

I just ran some aluminum buttons that sit on top of my spring perch top hats. Holes and diameters seem about 0.010" off. But again I suspect the precision is fairly good and more a problem of accuracy. I think with the little practice I could dial this in if I need to. In the next few weeks I want to run some positional location tests to see how accurate I can center punch holes.

Accolades and recognition will never be overstated for a project of this magnitude performed by 1 person.

Thanks guys! That is the kind of cool ideas I need for this thing. Only problem is I inherited a heavy 1/8 thk x 2.5 angle iron fuel cell frame in the deck. I hate looking at it. I will need to rethink this, but that is what I had in mind was a flat "protection" panel starting at the aft suspension mounts and terminating at the rear valence and somehow still capturing the envelope of the cell. I think if I keep things flat with no vanes I might be able to get away with it. That tilted cell would definitely make fuel pickup much easier!

The only tolerances I have checked were just spot checks to see if I was in the ball park. Seemed to be well within .010". I have not run anything that demands better than that but a lot depends on the style of cuts you do. I am most off in the Z axis, but that is due to my inconsistent way of setting 0. Eventually I will add stops to the machine to eliminate that problem. If you build the machine correctly, success with metals is quite easy. But after running it into the ground for a couple months, I have found consistency to be the main issue. Anything that can loosen up will loosen up and it is not always easy to identify the problem. But by modifying a few parts, lock-tite, and a maintenance schedule for tightening, I am getting much more consistent results. When I am happy with that I will concentrate more on accuracy and precision. Although a few people have done it, I would not use this for continuous production work in metal. But it seems OK for some nice 1-off parts. I think a few guys have used their large format machine for cutting sheet metal shapes out of 4x8's which I found interesting. Derek, I had to Google GP03. If you are referring to the walls that is just plywood. If you are referring to the machine parts, it is just a good quality 3d PLA filament. I think it is one of the most rigid materials you can print with. You just can't leave your machine out in the Florida sun.

Here are some photos of panel cutting and fitting. Once I was satisfied with the layout of all the interior bits I started planning out the panels. I used 18ga aluminum for interior panels and 18ga steel for the fire wall. I started at the front and went panel by panel working my way toward the back like a puzzle. I took my time and tried to bend or bead panels that seemed too floppy. It came out ok. I am actually thinking I need to clean up the original chassis some so it looks as good as the sheet metal section. I put everything in with clecos and drill all the holes for rivets. All the removable panels have 1/4 turn fasteners. I was a little concerned about getting a good seal from the engine bay, but it seems ok. I was not sure about either welding or riveting the fire wall but ended up drilling for rivets in case I need to rip it out later. I will probably seal all the riveted panels with RTV or similar. Once everything was fitted I pulled it all out and put on a shelf. I think I will install the firewall before I paint the chassis, but paint all the interior panels separate. I have been thinking a lot lately about colors since I am getting ready for paint. I think I will go with a light metallic grey for the interior and gloss black for all the suspension parts.

I have been geeking out on this thing for about 3 months now and posting on other forums and FB. I even have a magazine interested in seeing my setup. A 3D printing colleague told me about this possibility about 1.5 years ago and it sounded like total BS. So I started digging around the internet and found the V1 Engineering website and their MPCNC (mostly printed CNC). It has a very good support forum and some amazing project results for a small investment. So I took the plunge just to see what it could do. I slowly acquired all the parts over a 3-4 month period. When I finally had a break on my 3d printer I ran all the parts needed. I assembled this thing in a couple hours, ran a test print with a Sharpie pen, then ran some pockets in wood. I immediately put an aluminum plate on the bed and it went right through it. My eyes were, and still are as big as saucers everytime I use this thing. I have now progressed to mild steel and seem to be advancing the machine capability for the rest of the user base. Just like the 3d printer, I have suddenly found 50 projects I want to do, and so far, just ripping through them. Truth be told, it is not a simple process to produce parts and it is not super fast, but if you have either machining, programming, design, or 3d printing experience, you are already ahead. And if just cutting flat plate, even better. And the satisfaction of seeing a machine you built making chips is better than sex. Well not really, I exaggerate, but I think it is still super cool.