clarkspeed

Sounds like you are on the right track. I would say most successful EP 2.4L engines are built for 8k or better. They replace rods with Carillo or Pauter. Forged pistons. Nismo bearings. Deep oil pan with windage or throw in a dry sump. All kind of standard stuff, done to lower risk, if not preventing failure. Why are you running 91 octane? EP max is 12:1 compression. You need all of that.

You ARE the man!

Brake pads are very sensitive to the designed temperature range. And the temperature your brakes generate is dependent on many things obviously, but rotor/caliper combination is the hardest to predict. For AutoX I have seen some guys running some really lightweight stuff to reduce unsprung weight. I will assume they run a higher temp pad for this. But still you need something that develops close to max friction when cold. For track, cold temps are not an issue after 1\2 a lap. But finding the right temp match to pad is not easy if you are running aftermarket or custom setups. I recommend using a temp paint on the rotor to see where you are at and then choosing a pad compound to match. Then you can play with different suppliers to fine tune over time, but it shouldn't affect your times drastically.

Finally someone offers a decent brake upgrade kit without enormously too large rotors. Maybe others will follow.

Yes, the extra capacity helps, but really need trap doors to prevent pressure loss. Or run an accusump.

I love facebook also. I am a member vintage racing Z's, datsun classifieds, vintage imsa racing, race parts for sale in southeast, and maybe the most impressive is homebuilt cars from scratch. Its mindblowing and puts every build show on TV to shame. And I am only mentioning a few along with maintaining my own garage page. These communities are great, but no substitute for a good build thread or detailed model specific explanation or sticky you can find in a forum. Hell I put "forum" as a search term for every question I google about any vehicle. Hybridz really is a nitch group with limited audience. I am sure all the stuff better served by other platforms has all moved by this point. But I really hope that this group continues smaller but stronger.

This site is still pretty amazing. It is hard to believe how many generic auto terms I Google and HybridZ pops up in the search. And as far as dead, I think there are too many other distractions now so volume is understandably lower. HybridZ is the last place I would go for chatting, looking at pretty pictures, and meeting other Z people, but for hardcore tech questions, HybridZ still seems to be the best solution. Due to the lower volumes, responses take longer, but you can still message an expert if needed. As far as the community, look back at old posts and many of the "newbies" now have 10-15 years experience with this platform. Personally I have been building and racing these cars for 13 years now and I know a hell-of-lot more. For the most part, I solve my own problems now. But I still visit periodically and don't respond to threads that already have multiple correct answers or have detailed search results available. So what is the future of this forum? Technology is always advancing, venders come and go, parts become obsolete and then available again, and what was once an expensive solution can be applied for a fraction of the cost. And no matter what you have seen before, someone will innovate and set a new standard.

And I think 1 tire always locks up before the other one. But it should only be slight difference and not cause bad issues like changing lanes or something. I have never driven a car where both front tires lock at exactly the same time. I think corner weighting mostly balances L/R transitional and steady state cornering.

True. But car weight distribution is not always an easy thing to correct. We are kind of lucky with the S30 chassis that it is close to 50/50 F/R. But getting 50/50 L/R is not quite as easy. Anyway, I always start with front ride height even where I want to get my desired roll center and clearance. Then rear even although slightly higher. I then try to get the cross weights correct by adjusting the rear, and only tweak the front if needed. I dont know if this is right, but it always results in a tame handling car for me. Then at the track you can add/subtract more rake by adjusting the rear equal turns. I do this to balance aero issues. All adjustments with sway bar off, weight simulated for track, etc, etc.

Try Rick Bowers @ mojo performance over in Merritt Island This would be right up his alley. You should be able to reach him from this forum. He knows Datsuns and turbos and can program just about any EFI.

As stated above. Wilwood also offers a front hub that will fit. But the rear is either expensive custom stub axle or redrill the stock

I swapped in a Sweet column w flat steering wheel and adjustable mount. It will fit anyone.

Yes, devil in the details. Basically doing everything the rules allow and everything you would read in a balance and blueprint book. Every clearance checked and rechecked. Every tolerance maximized and duplicated. A lot of other SCCA classes and pro-racing follow the same recipe. And the best dyno proven parts that are open like exhaust. It is hard to get there building yourself but >200 at the crank is very possible on a 2.8, but don't underestimate running a 2.4. Higher rev limit with lighter weight is as fast and sometimes faster. I just refreshened a 2.4 ITS engine of unknown origin. Nothing special there. I did see a few things that looked "different" but provided no advantage. Not too many Z's running ITS now that the price has escalated.

Geometrically, I don't have a clue how to make that work. My suspension software does cover it, but it would take some thinking to understand what the trade offs are. I guess BMW uses some version of that Probably not that hard to implement. Officially it is called a "virtual A-arm". The "virtual pivot point" is the imaginary point where an extended T/C rod and control arm would intersect. Looks like you design for this to be close to the center of wheel to eliminate the scrub.

Looking good. I will be very interested to see how your weight comes out. The shell I started with looked much like yours now. It was missing firewall, all the floor tubing, work around the transmission tunnel, and no windshield. But had a full cage and front tubing similar to yours. It weighed in at 500lbs. I really really want mine to come in < 2k.

Well to answer the simple question, I recommend sourcing materials from your local auto paint supplier. They typically have a range of products depending on your budget, have plenty of advice, and might even be cheaper depending on the quality you desire. Plus you can run out and pick up another can when you need it. A small book can be written for each of the 6 topics above but it is possible to teach yourself. Just don't underestimate the time it takes to learn a skill and then apply it to a whole car. I think I spent close to 250 hours on the first car I painted. Painting is the easy part. You can spend 2 years prepping and 4 hours painting. Most shops will paint really cheap if you do all the prep and supply materials. Without going into too much depth, I would say don't strip unless you need to and you feel the foundation is not stable enough. I paint my race cars white with $40/gal industrial paint and they look great. But I wouldn't say white is easier than any other color to spray.

I like your approach. Very interesting selection of parts. I also looked at using the Mustang stuff, but never got around to test fitting parts.

Yes, and I will keep it secure with those same ty-wraps. I used the real thick ones.

Nissan was celebrated at the Mitty a couple weeks ago. There were some very cool cars there both on and off track. This is a video I made with photos and in car footage. Enjoy.

Did you happen to weigh them before mounting?

Man that looks a lot like my current project.

Big Jim @ Dover Cylinder in Orlando does all our work. Best in central FL. He has a very good eye for detail that you need. Don't know what machine he uses. 407_481_0088. Tell him you know me.

Note on SI valves. My head builder always has to straighten them before install. If you do that, they work fine. Ferrara and Manley were custom last time I checked.

Si valves

I agree with above. At 10:5 the stock N42/N47 is on the hairy edge of 93 pump gas no matter what cam you choose. Unless you can get 100 octane for free, not worth it. Otherwise leave it stock and just work on freeing up intake and exhaust.