clarkspeed

A lot of the vintage guys run the V07. Some some openly, some secretly. Most vintage organizations don't measure displacement. I actually had 1 I swapped in and out but destroyed it a few years ago. I am no expert, but based on what I have seen, if you put that crank in turbo, don't try to max out the bore to 0.120. I saw a guy go through 4 blocks trying to get that combo to work. Kept blowing holes through the cylinder walls. Many of these old blocks don't have that much meat left in them.

I can comment on #6 also. The z-trix hood is extremely high quality and amazing light weight. I have one for the car I am building. There used to be a guy in Greensboro, NC under the old Japco Raceglass moniker that made hoods and hatches so thin, you had to add your own supports. I still have one of his hatches. I googled him but couldn't find anything. He was at a Volvo repair shop and made FG parts for many SCCA prepared cars. He must have had a ton of molds. I could say do your own, I have been tuning my FG skills for about a year now. I just did a door and I am confident I could do a hood. But man it is the most boring, repetitive, exhausting, messy, never ending thing I have done with a car. I didn't think I could hate anything more than body work, but this went way past it. And the results are nowhere close the the Z trix stuff. My surface finish was great,, but the WEIGHT was not.. The Z Trix stuff is rigid and still paper thin.. I assume he vacuum bags the stuff.. I still have an air dam to finish, because none exist for what I need.

I can comment on #5 and #6. I have run the Mischimoto with good results. I also ran cheap Griffin I think from some Ford app. I literally had to block parts of it on cool days to keep water temp above 160. My personal opinion, and there are a lot of opinions out there, dry sump is best. If not dry sump, then a good racing oil pan with trap doors , windage tray, AND an accusump is next best. And third is a stock oil pan with accusump. The car I have now has the latter but most cars I build are option 1 or 2.

Wow Cary, I didn't know you went that deep into data acquisition! Problem is when I start talking about this stuff,, people's eyes glaze over. I have my software split into 2 modules depending on which analysis I am doing. 1 is for driver performance with related KPI's. it looks at max use of G circle, racing lines, lap comparisons, throttle and brake use etc. It is combined with video feed. The other is car performance stuff like downforce, gearing, under/oversteer etc.. Both have lots of custom graphs and math channels that show problem areas as red. The KPI's provide important historical reference. I haven't tracked engine parameters much because I am out of channels, but intend in the future. I really like your idea of a simple 1 or 0 flag to scan. I may even be able to get that displayed before I get out of the car! Don't know I you saw my last post in the sim racing thread. I spent some covid time fabbing a cockpit display for time slip and slip rate. I have become dependent on this from sim racing. I think that will improve my lap times immensely.

This is going off topic, but here is a video I made last year of the screen I developed for my race car. The Race Technology stuff is all programmable which doesn't make it easy, but on the other hand you can develop a screen that shows anything you want. I used a video screen instead of their dash but may switch to a dash in the future. it is a little jerky this way. Ignore the track map on the left, it only shows up on later playback. The screen on the right is mounted in my peripherical view. The top lap time is best overall, the bottom is predicted. The top bar chart is % rate of time change, think instant feedback that you are gaining or losing time at that point on track. Brake harder, it goes green, miss an apex, it goes red, etc. The bottom graph is total lap delta to the best lap. and there is a counter above it showing how many seconds ahead/behind you are. Race Tech Display.mp4

As I was just posting on Aydins build thread and forgot to mention earlier in some threads, I have grown quite reliant on live time slip data when I practice and qualify in iracing. Jon does Asseta Corsa provide this? I just assumed it did. With time slip rate you can see immediately if you blew the turn or found a faster way. That's why I don't really want to pursue a driving coach, if I ever get to the point where I can't find more speed experimenting, then I will have plateau at a very high level. But of course consistency wins races, not ultimate lap times. And consistency comes with being very comfortable and confident at executing. But I think we were talking about data in one of your threads. The ability to see that time slip real time is much more important for the non-pro level driver. Instant feedback is a wonderful thing. Could even benefit at an Autocross. And you don't need to analyze data. Just the feedback in your peripheral vision or in your ear. There are a few systems out there that provide this. I upgraded my Race Technology stuff to do this in my car. There is a verbal unit out there that does this but I forgot the name. This is exactly how the pros operate. They experiment ALL the time and have the ability to analyze good/better/best with their head.

I don't normally run a volt gauge, alt failures have been very rate for me. Oil temp is good, best to mount sensor in the pan. You can always add a Traqmate later if you want to analyze your driving and skip the dash. They go for around 400 used. They are fine for most basic analysis, like looking at speed vs. Distance graphs and g-force circles. Most people stop there. I need much more than that to analyze tire compounds, best gear ratios, understeer, etc. Etc. If you really just want to improve driving, a system that gives real time time slip data back to the driver is a must. Just forget about analyzing data.. Since I have been sim racing, I rely on it extensively. Just something that shows you real time how your rate of time slip compares to your best lap and actual lap or segment delta to best lap. Everytime you try something different in the car, you get immediate feedback if it worked. Some systems have easy to read bar charts and even a voice response in your ear.

I think Cary is referencing just 3/4 tubing with external bearings. Maybe even a rod end near the steering wheel. I struggled with this decision on the car I am building. In the end I went with the Sweet collapsible column for safety reasons but it is not so light. I am not sure what the rule book says for EP. Yea you can get into a lot of complexity on data/dash systems. If you decide to take the plunge maybe we talk on the phone. Yea dash + data is not so cheap. But it opens up a lot of potential. But the potential means nothing unless you can apply it. I think the cheapest solution is the Race Technology Dash 2. It will log 8 channels and the analysis software is pro level. If you just log oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp you have something to look at along with all the GPS and G force data. I had Greg put 1 in his LeMons race car for those reasons. You can easy add throttle position and the O2 sensors if you want and that is a pretty solid setup. Greg runs Traqmate in his EP car which drives me nuts. The software sucks. I have to put much of the data in Excel to analyze. But again, complex questions demand complex answers. If you go for something we can talk. I know a little about a lot of things, but data acquisition is something I know a little more about.

Now you are getting into some fun stuff! Greg runs races less than 1 hr so something to consider unless you have some big electrical demand. I am going to run a Geo Metro alt on my next engine as a small alternative, but I have not got to the engineering for that yet. AIM has a good product. Think about where you want to be in future state before purchase. I know quite a bit about data acquisition and I am officially Greg's race engineer BTW. Main questions are do you just just want a dash and how much data you you want to analyze? Are you just looking at driver performance or logging of multiple car parameters? Are you planning carbs or EFI system? They are both legal for EP.

It works very well.

Sorry I mis-posted

Looking good. Man that is a lot of welding. I don't see any holes in the firewall for the brake clutch MC's?

I wish I could tell which was fastest. The S30 Z really likes no bar on the rear. That is how Greg runs but in grippy turns he is always lifting a front wheel. The books will tell you that is traction lost, but you are making it up with sooner throttle..... so it depends. I think my chassis is stiff enough to treat it more like a full tube car. If you run without a rear bar, you just need to reduce the stiffness of the front bar accordingly, regardless of coil spring stiffness.

I try to challenge myself any way I can. I try to race cars with manual shifter as much as possible to practice heel and toe and I wear race boots. Even put myself at a big disadvantage sometimes by running races with no practice. At this point, I only race head to head. Yes it is a crap shoot in iRacing to avoid wreckage, but I find the better I get, the better I am at avoiding. In certain races, you are guaranteed a podium if you can qualify top 10 and stay out of trouble. I don't like driving the GT cars and faster. Too much electronic intervention and in iRacing the higher level you go, the more you are diving into setups. To win requires dedicating yourself to 1 or 2 cars and even paying for setups. I don't have time for that. My ultimate goal is to master that 67 Lotus GP car, what a handful, but those cats only race a couple days a week.. I own around 20 tracks and I do race multiple cars on each. I find my biggest gains come from stepping away for a couple of weeks. When I am really trying to find speed I find myself over driving. When I return to a track after some time off, with any car, I almost always set a new personal best. Just like in real racing, the magic happens at turn in. When I attack it with some kind of calm, confidence I always go faster. I don't have a lot of PC. I can look up specs if you like. Paid $700 for thr laptop on Amazon. Basically minimum vid card required for iRacing. I had to up my memory for the headset, but that is all. I got the Samsung VR headset new for $200. They may be cheaper now. They are rated very high for screen quality, but crappy for the hand sensors. You don't use the sensors when racing. It's pretty damn immersive. I can't ever go back to a monitor. As far as dizziness, I have a horrible inner ear. I get sick on roller coasters and every time I go to sea on a boat. It took me about 2 weeks to acclimate to 1hr+. Someday I may upgrade to DD and motion seat, but it is low on priority list. Maybe next pandemic.

I really really like the VR. I started with it and a new gaming laptop. I tried to switch to a monitor or giant TV for comfort and could not. I think a giant curved monitor might work, but I am not going to invest in that if the VR works so well. I can look L & R 90+ degrees while racing which is just super cool in an open wheel car. The only real negatives eye sweat and I can't drink beer while racing. But it takes some acclimation, I started with 5 minutes, then 10 min, and so on to keep from getting sick. I have a bad inner ear, but I mastered it. I chose iRacing because they had specific tracks I wanted to master and cars that I am familiar with. Regrettably I have not had a chance to see if it makes me a better racer. But hopefully soon. It will be a definite advantage if I go to a new track. It definitely makes me a better race engineer for others because I know what to expect from the track.

Only if you build your own rig! Damn near all the pros sim race in some form or another. Besides I have way more geek point topics than this. Better adjust the scale.

More ass end work. I originally bought this 1" light weight hollow sway bar to mount in the front and not run a rear bar. That is normally how I build a Z up with basic unibody. But after thinking about it, I think this partial tube chassis will be rigid enough to go a different direction. So I decided to run slightly lighter springs with stronger sway bars both front and rear. So I moved this bar to the rear and will purchase a heavier bar for the front once I do all the math to calculate what size it will need to be. For the rear I purchased some weldable arm kits from Speedway Motors. I also built a bearing holder and used the 3D printed Delrin bearings I already have. 1/2" rod ends and clevis bolted to the control arm in the original location.

Here are some details of the differential mount. First I raised the stock cross beam to add some room because I think will need some space to raise the differential. Goal here is to keep the axles close parallel to reduce stress. If you can keep them relatively parallel during operation, the stock half shafts along with some good u-joints can handle just about anything a NA L6 can throw at them, therefore saving me some money over a CV conversion. Next I cut some metal out of the dog bone cross link to have better access to the oil change plugs. I added a brace to compensate. Then I used a cut up stock lower front diff mount to mate with the front cross member I am using. It will be hard bolted using the stock long diff bolts. Then last I built an adapter plate that bolts to the moustache bar and raises the diff up 1.9". I don't think I need that kind of lift, but if I add it in, I can bring it back down with some shims on the mustache bar mounts. The mustache bar will be also hard mounted to the stock studs with a rigid bushing.

Wow, not much posted in the Motorsports section for awhile. Anyone else out there sim racing? I built up a rig in winter of 2019 just before the pandemic hit. It was great timing. Anyway I run iRacing software and run in a few different series with different cars to challenge myself. Any way here are some pics of my rig that I built myself. I run Thrustmaster gear with a Samsung VR headset.

Depends on what material you print and where it I used. A good home printer can run carbon-nylon good for up to 500 degree F. Pro shops can print carbon polymers just as good as OEM intakes. And if you have the money, you can print aluminum or more. I saw a pic of a $5000 3d printed inconel exhaust last week.

Thanks for the kind words. It will have a straight shot of air down the tunnel to keep it cool AND I plan to add plenty of insulation to the surrounding panels. Yes this is a common technique used by tube frame GT cars. The car will have a flat bottom and I will try to squish that down as much as possible. I have used oval exhaust tubing in the past, but that didn't seem feasible for this build.

This is the strut tower brace I fabbed. It is made from something like .060 steel square so it is very light. That is why I added so many gussets and triangles. It seems very rigid. It will be hard bolted to towers and roll cage.

And here are some pics of the exhaust. To keep ground clearance I needed to wrap the exhaust around the transmission and it will exit on the passenger side rocker panel. I took a standard 6 into 2 header and fabbed a some turns and a collector. A couple of v-band clamps allow removal of the entire system. At some point in the future I need so sandblast this thing and coat it.

Honestly, I think it might have been the first race/setup book I ever bought, but I have yet to see anyone cover the basics as well. And yes there are some really funny old pictures in there, like 8 degrees camber or something. I think it has been revised a few times by now.

Ha, not sure that clutch saves 20 seconds, but it does help. Roll center not super critical. Just like most settings, you want to know where it is, and where it goes after you make changes because it influences what you feel on track. Again if you follow the advise you have so far you will be in the ball park.