clarkspeed

Not sure I understand. Wouldn't motion ratio factor into this? Interesting that the spring rates go up when the tire spring rate goes up.

I also run bias ply tires, so almost no rear camber and that helps a lot. Back when I ran radials I tried to run as little rear camber as possible and still keep the temps under control.

Hey this forum is getting interesting again! Dan I think you are on the right track. My setup is not much different than yours. I run a little higher front RC (I hope you measured to the ball joint center!), lighter springs, smaller front sway bar, and custom valved Bilsteins. I haven't autocrossed in a few years but I would think you would want a little softer setup than a road race one. My rear frequency is 125cps and that seems to be the upper limit for me and it looks like you are about the same. I wouldn't want to autox my setup. My car didn't start rotating and biting out of the corner until I got rid of the rear sway bar and softened my shocks. I was running 100 compresion and that was too much. Looking at the internet, those Koni's look like about 160 in compression. So they are more or less acting like additional spring, which would be ok if you were driving a stock based car. The 8611's I think will adjust compression to something more reasonable.

Dan, Tom and I will be at Sebring in 2 weeks with SVRA. You should come down. I can put you on crew list.

I think John Thomas runs 100lb ballast in passenger floorboard in FP. He's a small guy, but that car is light! On the other hand, he could probably win a Nat championship in an El Camino. Dan if you ever need help with set up you can swing over to Orlando.

As posted 1000 times on this forum, spend money wisely on the head. That is where the power is. The extra cubic inches can enhance that especially with the torque curve. ITB's are less priority. Especially for street engine.

Gnosez, you are so correct. Driving skills are monumentally more important. And i think one advantage to the S30 is abilty to get 50/50.f/r pretty easy.

I'm building a tube frame up now and did the same calculations. It takes a big move to get 50/50 l/r. I think I will center the engine and live with it.

For that budget you can build anything you want. IMHO a stroker doesn't cost much more and if you limit to 3L .060 over you want have trouble with finding a block. Maybe a little care with assembly. Those that have built them did so for a reason, and I assume they would do it again for the same reason.

That's hefty. Good thing you have the power to compensate.

I also have one for sale. Will send you pics.

Wow lot of passion on this thread. I eliminated all of my steering play by re-clocking all the splined joints. The column was tight already so no problem there. So it can be done. So I guess I fall into the " find another column" club. I set my toe with strings on flat surface. My main reason for fixing it was everytime I locked the wheel when setting toe, I found I was chasing the adjustment. I probably had 1/4 inch of slack before I started but never noticed when driving. So per JohnC's post, it was fixed for repeatability and future time savings.

Order it from NISMO

I've been thinking about some front control arm ideas for a new race car that I am building (future build thread). I wanted to use as many off the shelf circle track parts as possible. This combo seems to work. 1. Allstar 56292 Screw in Ball joint Holder http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=221&part=ALL56292&add=no 2. Moog K772 style ball joint, many options including adjustable and low friction. 3. Combine with swaged tubing, clevis, and rodends of course for the CA and TC rod The steering knuckle needs to be modified with 1.5"/ft (7deg) ball joint reamer and my aluminum bump steer spacers would need a little work to get the nut to clear. I haven't checked if this combo interferes with rotor or wheel yet. Any thoughts?

Where can one get a Quatermaster twin disc setup for $500?

The old Nissan Motorsport set up pulled oil from side of the pan straight into pump bypassing the block feed. I like this idea but have been unable to source the pump plate to convert. But I've had no problems with my motorsport oil pan and accusump combo with fresh turbo pump. You can lighten the rockers yourself. I trimmed and polished like the "how to modify" book. I won't comment too much on the tensoiner other than I have yet to encounter a problem where such an engineered solution is required for road race applications.

With around 250hp good tune and running 10/10 I burn around 4 gal in 20 minutes.

That's my white #62 next to Tom's car. I won 2nd place for 260z, not sure why, Tom's car looks much nicer than mine. Nice event held at a beautiful location.

We are bringing out the race cars. All prepped and ready for Daytona. Hope it doesn't rain.

Thanks for testing. Any wagers?

I wouldn't run those screens in the picture above. They look very restrictive.

I agree, and will not even begin to elaborate on my Chinese contracts. Atypical yes, but impossible to procure there, no. Although everyone still underestimates the time and investment required, MSD's problem?

Well my Chinese sourced Ipad and Iphone work just fine. Anyway, I hope they pull through and continue to develop products.

Fine work and good payback.

You have a big problem somewhere that has nothing to do with internal vs. External oiling of cam. Even a small amount of oil pressure up top should prevent this damage. Either a blockage or path that allows oil to escape. Does the cam have the ends plugged?