clarkspeed

Nothing wrong with insurance. You could put in a 500lb Nascar cage too. Those giant rotors are just not worth the unsprung weight gain for me.

Keep in mind, tires make your car stop, not the brakes. I havent posted that in awhile. Kits with 12" rotors and Wilwood calipers are pure overkill, and having designed a set for myself using smaller and lighter components, I can say it is not cheap going the Wilwood route, regardless of size. I haven't purchased from them, but the Silvermine stuff looks attractive to me for anything under 150mph.

I never knew that phenomena existed or ever thought about it. You would that SAE and automakers would have plenty of data on the subject. As far as cooling, I run a Ford double pass radiator with the oil cooler mounted in front of it. After I sealed off the front, my water temps went to 150 at Daytona on a 95 degree day. I installed another 190 thermostat with 1 hole drilled instead of 2, blocked 1/2 the grill, and got the temps rock steady at 190. I have been taping off the grill to block as much air as possible from going into the box and still keeping the 190, barely. However my oil temps have remained steady this entire time at around 240-250. They seem independent of water temp.

I was running stock efi and cam in an 82 ZX with a ported out 75 manifold. Everyone who drove it was amazed at the power it had. I would keep the compression low and run cheap gas for daily driving.

That's a good set up. I built one to drive 140 miles a day with a P79. Just fresh engine, blended the ports into the valves, port matched the manifold, weber big throat, headers, 2-1/2 exhaust with cheap 3" Catalytic converter. Ran like hell on 87 octane. 23mpg.

Why do the LCA's have to be adjustable? More track? The TTT stuff is HD but that means more weight. That's a tough failure. Good luck.

I sprayed mine with a gun and industrial paint. Didn't prime first and still get a lot of chips in it. But you don't need expensive paint since UV protection is not an issue. Painting a cage is the hardest thing I have ever painted. Impossible to keep the gun distance even, get 360 degree tube coverage, while paint is blowing back in your face. You will not want to do multiple coats. Plan on taking some time to do it. Powder coating is the way to go for pro results.

I shopped the eastwood also. Ended up buying the Thermal Arc 181. Couldn't be happier. And I can TIG if I want.

Grinding back the LCA is common for running the AZC big brakes. I've never seen anyone with boots burning either. When the car is level there should be enough air gap. I don't run TTT control arms, but I doubt mounting from bottom is a problem.

All is good if you don't over cam it and keep the power and torque down at low rpms.

Measure it on the car. Straight edge and cheap digital angle gauge from Harbor freight or phone app level. I've driven some fast cars without any adjustment.

Holy teeth chatter Batman! There can't be many shocks on the market that can handle that. I may have to do some experiments with my tube frame car in the future to explore this. It should be fairly rigid, light, and gobs of grip on 12" slicks.

I rotated a ball joint about 50 times. The center sits about 0.5" above the control arm flat. It makes a difference if you are measuring RC. I measured everything out last year and put into SusProg3d. Not sure if my referance points would match what you are looking for. What are you going to use for motion analysis?

Not sure I understand. Wouldn't motion ratio factor into this? Interesting that the spring rates go up when the tire spring rate goes up.

I also run bias ply tires, so almost no rear camber and that helps a lot. Back when I ran radials I tried to run as little rear camber as possible and still keep the temps under control.

Hey this forum is getting interesting again! Dan I think you are on the right track. My setup is not much different than yours. I run a little higher front RC (I hope you measured to the ball joint center!), lighter springs, smaller front sway bar, and custom valved Bilsteins. I haven't autocrossed in a few years but I would think you would want a little softer setup than a road race one. My rear frequency is 125cps and that seems to be the upper limit for me and it looks like you are about the same. I wouldn't want to autox my setup. My car didn't start rotating and biting out of the corner until I got rid of the rear sway bar and softened my shocks. I was running 100 compresion and that was too much. Looking at the internet, those Koni's look like about 160 in compression. So they are more or less acting like additional spring, which would be ok if you were driving a stock based car. The 8611's I think will adjust compression to something more reasonable.

Dan, Tom and I will be at Sebring in 2 weeks with SVRA. You should come down. I can put you on crew list.

I think John Thomas runs 100lb ballast in passenger floorboard in FP. He's a small guy, but that car is light! On the other hand, he could probably win a Nat championship in an El Camino. Dan if you ever need help with set up you can swing over to Orlando.

As posted 1000 times on this forum, spend money wisely on the head. That is where the power is. The extra cubic inches can enhance that especially with the torque curve. ITB's are less priority. Especially for street engine.

Gnosez, you are so correct. Driving skills are monumentally more important. And i think one advantage to the S30 is abilty to get 50/50.f/r pretty easy.

I'm building a tube frame up now and did the same calculations. It takes a big move to get 50/50 l/r. I think I will center the engine and live with it.

For that budget you can build anything you want. IMHO a stroker doesn't cost much more and if you limit to 3L .060 over you want have trouble with finding a block. Maybe a little care with assembly. Those that have built them did so for a reason, and I assume they would do it again for the same reason.

That's hefty. Good thing you have the power to compensate.

I also have one for sale. Will send you pics.

Wow lot of passion on this thread. I eliminated all of my steering play by re-clocking all the splined joints. The column was tight already so no problem there. So it can be done. So I guess I fall into the " find another column" club. I set my toe with strings on flat surface. My main reason for fixing it was everytime I locked the wheel when setting toe, I found I was chasing the adjustment. I probably had 1/4 inch of slack before I started but never noticed when driving. So per JohnC's post, it was fixed for repeatability and future time savings.