Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Everything posted by clarkspeed

  1. I think my springs are in the 250-275 range if I remember correctly and car weighs around 2450 empty. Springs are just a little stiff for auto-cross work, a little soft for hard track work, and torture for street drive. Just the right compromise for me. I run Carerra's and love them. Non-adjustable, but it's one less thing I need to worry about. Mystrut nut came loose at Sebring and the thing slapped around in the tube at weird load angles for 20 minutes. I took it out and still couldn't push the rod down with my hand. My struts are 8 years old, with a lot of abuse, and they are s
  2. Make sure your manifold, adapter, TB's and filters will fit into the engine bay. The space fills up fast. My TWM setup barely makes it.
  3. I don't think it is from water. Everything looked like it was sealing and there was no leak path from the water passages. I still had great compression and no signs of a gasket leak although I suspect it would be coming soon. This head has about 1-2K miles since I last took it off. I am wondering if the copper gasket sealer reacted somehow with the aluminum.
  4. Has anyone ever seen a head erode like this? The head has only been run for a few months. 4 out of 5 cylinders show some signs of this. Most of it is at the head gasket seal but some of it worked into the chamber. There were no signs of water leakage.
  5. I'm not sure about your electronics, but it could be mechanical. I had the same problem. Turned out my distributer/oil drive shaft ate itself alive. The crank gear is steel and so is the shaft gear, if you push high RPM's niether one will give. Nissan comp made a brass gear for the crank to solve this problem on the race engines. If there are metal shavings in your oil, better pull it.
  6. I had actually bought a set of 40mm Webers and when I priced getting them tuned I backed off and sold them on e-bay. I knew they would be marginal for my engine, I think they had the 36mm chokes. I knew if I went with the TWM/FI set up, I could build any engine I wanted underneath and push button tuning is free. Did I mention my induction noise is louder than my exhaust? Very pleasing to the ear.
  7. The Cannon manifold seems to act more like independent runners. 6 little engines if you will. Although the cross-over tube has a rather large id, >1/4", each runner "pulses" vacuum with valve lift. The only way to get a steady vacuum reading is to run all 6 together into a small manifold (1/2 id tubing, 1-2' long, minimum).
  8. "However, if you sum the vacuum signals from all of the cylinders together, you will get a much better signal than your current setup does, especially at low rpm. " I had all the vac signals tied into a chamber when I first started tuning. It gave me a little boost to about 10"HG at idle, and around 13" at low speed. It was not enough for the SDS MAP tuning after 2 months of trying. When I switched to TPS it fell right in with about 30 minutes of driving. For track use and even most street driving, the TPS load sensing works surprisingly good. I could hook the vac system ba
  9. I’ve seen a few posts recently on the pros/cons of converting to FI and benefits of a TWM set-up. I don’t get a chance to contribute as much as I would like to this forum due to lack of time (usually working on my Z) but I wanted to write a few words on my latest adventure. Engine: What you see in the pictures is a L28, N47 head, flat tops, 1mm gasket, 490†cam, and mild/medium porting. This is NOT a street car. It sees Solo and Open track. My goal is a very quick Z running on pump gas ($). Air: Attached is an old Cannon intake with 3 x 50mm TWM throttle bodies. Atta
  10. I sold my 81 last year. It had 6 into 3" header. 3" in/out cat. 3" Dynomax race muffler (glass pack) before the axle. The system finished out with a 6" dia. round Dynomax straight through race muffler. It all had to empty on the drivers side. I would think a Flowmaster would fit also.
  11. Dang! And to think I rolled mine with a hammer, dolly, and 2" pc of pipe.
  12. Dan, If you have a jig and still interested in duplicating, Let me know.
  13. Get the book, How to Build and Power Tune Weber & Dellorto: Dcoe, Dco/Sp & Dhla Carburettors (Speedpro) . It's better than the Haynes book and available on Amazon.
  14. You will never get huge power out of that engine without losing the streetability, unless you go turbo. But you can make a nice street car. I just sold my "experiment in free breathing" 81 280Zx. I used a big K&N into 3" tubing before the AFM. 70mm throttle body into a heavy ported 75' intake manifold. Match ported the head to the manifold and pocket ported around the valves before a fresh valve job. Used a 6 into 3" header and ran 3" Cadalytic Converter, glass pack, and race muffler. It made a very strong street car that could dust off most other 4 and 6 cylinder cars. It came ali
  15. Ive got a set of triple 40's I'm getting ready to put on e-bay if you are interested. No manifold. I bought the set for my race car and then read everything I could about them. After pricing what it would take to tune them out I decided to go with an EFI system instead. Weber parts are not cheap!! There is a good book on them and worth the investment, "How to Build and Power Tune Weber & Dellorto: Dcoe, Dco/Sp & Dhla Carburettors" (not the HP book). From people I know that run them, 40 are great for the street, 45, 48 or 50's for all out race.
  16. I run the Ground Control Coil Overs. If you run with their camber plates also the install fits up well. Otherwise you will end up fabricating a mount for the 3 stud towers. I don't think the brand of coil over matters much. Just the fact that you switch to the 2-1/2" springs and can adjust them is the only thing that makes a difference. BEWARE of your ride height. If you lower the car much, shortened struts are a must. Bottoming is a quick way to destroy a set of struts.
  17. The one I bought is a 0 580 254 982 for a BMW. The one I had before was a 0 580 254 957. I don't know what it fit. Both of these pumps have the larger casing and look just like the 0 580 254 979 pump made for a 911. The only difference appears to be the inlet and outlet configurations which changes the part number. Anyway, I'm not pushing huge amounts of fuel like the big boys are but they seem to be identical. Does anyone out there have flow charts for the Bosch pumps? I could find absolutly no information or cross reference to Bosch part numbers.
  18. Oh well, I ended up getting another big Bosch unit off e-bay for $40, new. I paid $160 for the last one and I already have a fitting for the outlet. I love e-bay! Thanks anyway, I may try the MSD or Walbro next time.
  19. Thanks DavyZ. It's amazing what can be done with a body hammer and dolly! I have seen custom flares hammered from sheet metal and welded on that looked pretty good also. Not stock looking, but not the huge overhang you get from the big fiberglass pieces.
  20. I wanted a very subtle flare on my Z also. Something that kept the same body lines but didn't really look like a flare. I ended up rolling out the inner fender lips and welding a piece of 3/16" round barstock to the edge for support. I gained about 1.5" of flare and almost 3" of clearance. Enough to get 245/45/16 tires under it. Looks stock unless you put it beside another Z. Here are some pics if you want to see: http://www.mindspring.com/~cstephens/zmain.htm
  21. Keep in mind that tires are always the limiting factor in stopping distance. The stickier the tire, the faster you will stop. Brake upgrades only improve the "feel" of the brakes, durability, and fade resistance. Big $$ can be better spent on tires and wheels if you really want to stop quicker. For little money, high temp fluid, Hi-Perf pads, and ss lines go along way toward eliminating fade and providing a firm pedal.
  22. Thanks Mike, $130 is not bad and if it works for you, it must supply some serious fuel.
  23. Who makes a good, dependable, economical, inline fuel pump? My Bosch unit froze up after sitting for a year so I need a new one. It pulled pretty good from the fuel cell but cost around $180. Anything out there better and CHEAPER. I'm running a NA race prepared Z with SDS FI system, less than 300HP.
  • Create New...