clarkspeed

Some shops like to shave a head after it is warped instead of straightening. The head will be thinner on the ends and thicker in the middle. The combustion chambers will measure accordingly.

Reproducing this head could be much more cost effective using selective laser melting in the future. The technology is advancing rapidly. The prices are dropping each year for 1-off and prototype parts. Similar material properties and finishes to investment casting. Unlimited complexities. Amazing stuff.

I also recommend reading Bobistheoilguy forum. Everything you ever wanted to know.

Basic alignment then get some sticky autocross tires. They will cover up most minor handling problems and transform even the most mundane car into a race car. You can then work on improving driving skills. The downside is the tires will wear quickly on outside until you get enough camber for them.

I have raced 2 cars with the plates bolted underneath. No problems seen. I would do something extra if you wanted to put on top.

I run the same Fuel safe box with an external Bosch pump. I forgot to add gas before a practice session at Atlanta and ran out on track. I was able to limp a half lap back to pits. There was less than 1/4" of gas left in bottom of cell. It works great.

Impressive stuff! Thanks for sharing.

What # radiator cap are running? Moving up in pressure may help.

I just bolted up a similar oil pan on my fresh engine a few weeks ago. It's an older piece but I'm pretty sure it is of the Nissan Comp lineage. When i ran the engine we had leaks everywhere. Turns out the ARP main studs were hitting the pan causing a .030" gap. Couldn't see it with thick Nissan Comp gasket installed. So check the fit up before bolting down if you use the studs.

Simple white. And a little vinyl.

I've been chasing front end shake on the race car for a long time. Most recently thought the rack was bad on center but instead traced it to the splined steering shaft just below the coupling. I removed the shaft and rotated it a couple teeth and reinstalled. Seemed to engage the splines better and the movement was gone.

Unless you raise compression, you will regret it.

GoPro is hard to beat. Tom just got one and his video spliced with mine is in the Motorsport forum. Suction mount is very good and so is sound quality. There are also many others. Replay XD is also nice. But for those on a budget...I found a Veho Muvi pro on ebay for $30. They sell new on Amazon for $60. About the size of my thumb with a clip to mount. It was used for my in-car videos for the races I posted. Lots of sample videos on YouTube if you search. For these suspension videos, I have an older setup that was posted out on ITForums.com a few years ago before GoPro was popular. It's a Neuros Recorder 2 combined with a cheap bullet camera. I probably have $70-$80 in it. The camera has a mount I secure with sheet metal screws. And the recorder has a remote. But the quality is rough, suitable for an IPOD screen, or suspension analysis.

Well I finally got around to shooting some video of my rear suspension during a hot lap at Road Atlanta. The camera was a little shaky but can still see what is going on. It was mounted left rear facing forward. Most of the turns are right so much of the footage shows the left rear loaded. Looks to max about 2" compression and 1.5" rebound at the wheel by my calculations off the freeze frames.

I agree, the AFR's are way off. Fix the rich condition.

Set up cam with degree wheel. It's the only way to know what you have and get close to cam specs. If its a new build, I will also check piston to valve clearance at multiple cam angles so I will have no fear of trying different cam settings on the dyno. Often you can get by with stock sproket so save your money unless your measurements say you need it.

Keep stock crank, ATI or BHJ damper, balance everything, then race it.

$3500 for a custom crank isn't so bad compared to those $1600 Carillo rods. EP isn't cheap.

Sam at LNA could help. Just south of greensboro. Knows much about L6's.

Better check valve/wall clearance. I'm not sure those will fit into l28 040 over.

Yes torquing of fasteners is so critical but still an approximation at best. These are some methods NASA uses to narrow the variability and prevent yield: 1. Measuring the stretch. Typically used on large critical fasteners that are reused. 2. Measuring the running torque with a dial torque wrench. This number is then added back to the tightening torque to calculate the final torque value. Typically used when fasteners have a locking feature or interference incorporated into the design. 3. All new hardware with specified lubricant. I believe all flight fasteners are designed around one or more of these 3 methods.

Yes I agree with Tony here. I'm in Germany right now building engines of a different sort. Parts orders are specified clearly and inspected 100% upon receipt before "ownership". Rejects are responsibility of supplier. Nothing passes through. All of EU pretty much follows this practice. I assumed in earlier post you had already reconditioned the rods. As stated before, it is typically a routine process for rebuilds. So is balancing as far as I am concerned. If you are going to spend the time and money on a rebuild.......? So, if the rods are reconditioned you shouldn't have more than a few thou difference in piston heights. Especially after the pistons are cut. You can mix and match rods to get the final match. But that may be difficult if you are running press fit pins. I never said cut pistons to match. Back to your problem. Machining all pistons to match #4 is a possibility. 0.035" is not excessive clearance and is what many books and builders will recommend. My machinist insists this is the number to shoot for and he builds many race engines, but I don't always listen to him. It's not what you wanted, and I don't suggest you accept this, and I'm not exactly sure you machinist is competent, but it is possible. And to Tony's earlier post, I hardly think it's child's play to run 1:20's at Road Atlanta with a production based car. But you are entitled to your opinion.

Lazeum, I am in similar circumstance. I preassemble my engine, check a few clearances, then travel to Germany for a few weeks. Fly back, repeat. At this pace, I am shooting for a March completion even though I have all the parts sitting on the bench. As you said, CHECK EVERYTHING. I spent the last 2 days just measuring bearing clearances. As far as head gaskets, I found the most economical solution to be the 0.6mm metal gasket from Nisson Motorsports. You can order from them directly and they are available. About $150. You will need to cut the piston top to match and yes the machinist will need to remove the rods to chuck them. I think we paid $15/ea last year for this service. Check each piston's clearance individually and try to get all of them to match in height. Sometimes you can get slight variations in the rod lengths. As for the 200mph 510, that was an exaggeration in relation to the engineering, sophistication, and high level of build that the car displayed. It passed a lot of tube frame v8 monsters and had a multi-second lead within a few laps at Road Atlanta. My disclaimer to land speed record followers. It's high downforce aerodynamics would never allow over 150-160 I would guess, but it could get to that speed very quickly.

We race HSR since they stay mostly in the South East. They are much more about the show and full fields than picking on rules. They will allow just about anything to race and find a class for it. They now even have X classes for some of the stuff in between rules like EFI. I once saw a rotary turbo 510 that could run 200mph. Most all the classes seem to stretch the rules. The ex-Nascar guys are much faster than a Sprint Cup car, the Porsche's run $40,000 engines with titanium rods, and I'm not old enough to remember racing in the late 60's, but I doubt the front running Trans Am Mustangs and Camaro's sounded like Indy Cars going down the straight. I thought the tires were at least an equalizer, but lately I've seen slicks run in some of the production classes. I don't think there are many protests.

Yea Tony, but you can't snack on the modeling clay while you are working! I usually swap out the MLS gaskets after 4-5 "cycles" of installing and running so I have a few shop queens laying around. I have found they don't last forever if you do a lot of teardowns. We had one spring a leak last year after building and testing the engine in in sunny Florida, towing it to Atlanta and cranking it in 30 degree weather.