clarkspeed

I use a Griffen double pass. It was from some Ford app that had the right width. I used aluminum tubing and silicone connectors from Silicon Intake Systems to custom plumb it.

OMG!

Absolutely. I'm not a lubrication engineer by any stretch, but can only repeat what oil company reps and professional engine builders have told me. The oil cushion on start up is quite critical to bearing wear on both passenger and race cars. There really is no protection until the shaft is rotating and a wedge is allowed to form.in the bearing. A thiner weight oil provides enhanced protection during this period and is faster to form the wedge. That's why you see so many passenger cars moving toward the 0W-5W multigrades and most race cars running multigrades. Of course a sump heater would make a difference also. BTW, I was also told there were only 3 synthetic oil base manufacturers, Exxon, Chevron, and BP. And only 4 additive manufacturers. The secret is in the mix of course, but it is not that big a secret. It's more of blending for a particular market or application. Diesel oils, like your Rotella, are blended with higher detergent additives. Race oils are blended more with additives that resist fuel contamination and the degregation that comes from it.

I just read this post. Low pressure could have been the oil pump. Make sure to change it out on rebuild. As far as oil, there is plenty of info on the web. Bobistheoilguy. How hard you push it on track and how much you spent on that engine should influence your decision. I stay away from additives and straight weight oils. Most damage happens on start up. For a severe duty L6 stick with a multi-grade at least 40w or more for higher temps and to allow margin for some degredation. 40W oil turns into 35W oil when contaminates are introduced.

This has me thinking again. What is the best way to quantify lateral g's? It's pretty much a normal distribution of data. At the Runoffs we saw almost identical G's from Hoosier R7 DOT's and slicks. Peaks at 1.8, but when I look at a smoothed plot the average is more like 1.25. And that is typically what I find when taking an average for 1/2 second or so continous loading.

LNA in Greensboro. Sam will build you some power.

I guess I just saw your earlier post, what RPM were you shifting at? It's not a trival task to have a 8k RPM engine with the big bore and stroke. Better to shoot for something that will deliver power < 7200RPM and use that big flat torque curve to your advantage coming out of the corners with a crappy ratio Nissan transmission. I'm sure it can be done if you pay attention to the details, and Rebello may report a high limit, but in the last couple of years I have seen 3 oversize engines wipe bearings when rev'd often over 7k. And one was mine. I know there are a lot of theories on this with vibration and all, but the simple solution is keep the rev's down.

Perfect

Balance the lower assembly, get the bearing clearances dead on, ARP rod bolts and main studs, accusump, then go race. Stuff happens sometimes.

Really? That is some serious downforce. That's much more than any of the cars I've worked with.

At far as caster and camber, Im setting up a car now on jack stands without hubs. A digital angle gauge on strut works fine for locating things.

I flip mine around all the time. Only use the 2 close holes and shaved the washers to fit together.

Double A arms are the best solution if legal, no doubt. Every purpose built race car has them for a reason. Better camber control. The Koni upper bushing wear is most common problem. Not sure why it happens in some cars and not others. Weight? I know some 240's that race forever on them. The Bilstein P30's are bullet proof. 450# is no problem. But not an easy task to get the valving right. But it easy to get sort of close.

On the engine, I also have a Nissan comp pan but have noticed my Accusump working in 6 and 7 before. Seems 6 loads the oil up on left side and then throwing it into 7 really pulls it out of sump. Noticed it most when my oil pump was marginal. As far as incident, that is tragic. A little oil can make a big problem. On other hand, a couple years ago a guy left his drain plug out and oiled down entire back straight. We ran the race with no problems. BB corvette was running 180 there. My guess is something broke. Especially if he made it to the brake zone. When I started HPDE many years ago I stuck with the priority of safety, reliability, and then speed. Hans, 5 pt harness, roll bar, and a single pc firesuit are not overkill.

These are the ones I fabricated using a simple jig. Used a 3/4 x 5/8 for the front rod end and 5/8 x 5/8 for others. Used QA1 rod ends and have about 4 or 5 race weekends on them so far with no problems. Also made some oil-lite bronze bearings for the inner pivot.

2nd the callout for Sun Central Z Club. In Orlando,I get all my work done at Dover Cylinder Head if you cant find anything over there.

Did the oil pressure drop? Turns 6 and 7 will put the oil on 1 side of pan.

Like the dash wiring. Plugs are a great addition.

Bob Leitzenger uses them to build his 510 L20's. I would say it is safe that they know what they are doing. They are well known in the vintage racing circles.

I paid $1200 for my first Quaife 10 years ago. Then they jumped up to $1500-1600. If you want one cheaper, just need the exchange rate to get better.

That head had a hair cut. Make sure you have correct lash pads installed. And if you notch block, be VERY careful when dropping in pistons so ring doesn't hang up there. Learned that lesson last year.

Nothing wrong with removing rear bar to help put power down, but it is typically combined with a reduction in front bar stiffness to reduce understeer.

DLM printing a head is possible. Nascar is doing a lot of prototyping with this method. But it is not cost effective and I would never call it cheap. Figure 3 to 4x cost of castings, but no tooling costs. Dereck's approach is still most economical. In addition, I've never seen a machine capable of printing anything that long. EOS are the most common. The only way to do it right is to section a head and laser scan. Otherwise you will be guessing much of the internal passages. If you could produce an exact 3d model, the printing is easy IF you are working with someone who knows how to run the machine and is familiar with aluminum alloys, not a bunch of grad students. And dont forget you still have the challenge of adding all the machine surfaces to the correct datums after printing. Not an easy task, just ask Derek.

Like Johnc said, you will need to balance your braking aggressivness with trying to get about 2 hours of life out of pads. You would be surprised what lap times you can get by rolling on and rolling off the pedal. Solid, consistent, threshold braking will only gain a .1 or .2 seconds on most turns and is usually the last thing a pro driver tries to squeeze out. From turn in to apex is where the magic happens.

Keep on Racin' [/url]">http://s734.photobucket.com/user/clarkspeed/media/Car%20Ass.jpg.html'>