Thumper

Please anybody?

bpr7es-11 gapped at .045" had them at .050" no problem but wanted to be on the safe side. This is at 19-18psi. Msd 6al, blaster 2 coil, and magnecore wires. It never misses a beat.

Looks like something out of the Jetson's.

Well two of my hydraulic lifters are making noise on my p90a. All the junkyards around me don't want to sell just the lifter only the whole head. Was wondering if anybody had two lifters lying around. The better the quality the better. I have tried running seafoam, tranny fluid, and removing them in soaking them in diesel fluid overnight but still ticking away. Thanks alot its really starting to get annoying.

http://album.hybridz.org/data/509/ted_vs_tubro_gsr_hatch_02.wmv Thats another one. Remeber this was in a safe and controlled area with friends at the end of the track and beginning so that no bystanders could be hurt.

http://album.hybridz.org/data/509/ted_vs_heads-cam-nitrous-DR-SS-Camaro_01.wmv http://album.hybridz.org/data/509/ted_vs_heads-cam-nitrous-DR-SS-Camaro_02.wmv First race camaro had a bad start. Second start I spun way too much. Please don't post in other forums. Thanks.

Looks like my miata with a hardtop and z headlights. Have you seen pictures of the new miata 06+ very similar. Nice looking car though just don't think it would be a good z.

I found some springs at local mom and pop hardware store, sears hardware, home depot, and lowes. Home depot had the one I wanted though. Make sure you bring your mbc inside because a small difference in diameter can make it bind. If you get too long of a spring then your boost will never go low enough even with your mbc unscrewed all the way. So I would by a two one really long and one slightly shorter then return the one you didn't need. Good luck and watch the boost gauge:twisted:

You can tell if the air ducting vacuum signal is leaking by adjusting the position of the air. Ex. At your feet, defroster, face and feet, and etc... If it works in ALL positions then this is not the leak. I would then check the brake booster as jmortensen said. Good luck

I noticed less of a spike when I put the boost reference off of the intake manifold. It also compinsates for the psi lost over the intercooler. What this does is instead of the boost controller trying to keep the wastegate at 16psi (which is 14psi after the intercooler), it will keep the wastegate at 14psi which is 14 at the intake manifold. So lets say you took the boost controller off of the turbo and put it on the manifold and you didn't touch the settings. You would then be running higher boost. The longer spring inside the boost controller will make it be weaker so that the difference between 12-14 psi will move the spring further in so that more air can get to the wastgate so it will move further. Basically making the wastegate more sensitive to excess boost. I have done all these mods on my z and still had a slight spike 19psi down to 17psi. But at first it was 18psi spike down to 15psi. I just installed a greddy profec B-spec I and boost response has been greatly improved, no spiking, and way less drop off. So if possible get an EBC. I would recommend a new greddy profec-B type S. Very easy to use and great response.

I would check the tranny fluid level. If you get an increase in gear noise all of sudden it usually means low fluid. About tinking it could be many things. I would check for lose connections, exhaust pipeing, etc... before I considered internal damage.

And the answer was... The automatic oil cooler plate. On automatic l28et's the came with a factory oil cooler. Most people remove this plate and put a nipple on so that the oil filter can go like the n/a and manual turbo cars. Since one day I want to run an oil cooler and I didn't have a nipple handy I decided to just block off the two holes where the supply and return line for oil cooler would have gone. Still you must say this should not have caused low oil pressure. But nay oem nissan designed the plate so that half the oil would go staight to the oil filter and the other half to the oil cooler, then oil filter. It was designed this way so that when the oil was cold and thick it would still flow enough around the restrictive oil cooler intill the oil thinned up enough to flow through the oil cooler. So 2 1/2 turbos, one bad lifter (maybe it will bleed back up), and possible engine damage (no smoke at start up or under acceleration yet) later I have found out the problem. Today is fix the problems day for me. Fixed two problems that have been plagueing me for awhile now. Enjoy the ride!!!

This is an FYI not a question. Long story short version is the lower one. For the last two weeks I have had an on/off problem with power when I would hit boost. Sometimes it would do it at 3500rpms and some times at 5500rpms. I hooked up a wideband o2 and it showed the engine going lean. In the neighborhood of 18:1 a/f YIKES Well I tried upping fuel pressure to 60psi at idle. I tried loosening the afm 10 more teeth and nothing helped the top-end. Ran a fuel pressure gauge and ducted taped it to my hood and etc... I have on and off worked on this problem for two weeks as I worked on other things. Then today after 2 hrs of working on this one problem I decided to do a search. OMG NOT A SEARCH!! I didn't do this earlier because I assumed that I would come up with lots of misfire, low fuel pressure, bad sensors, etc... and didn't want to sift through all that junk. Well the 4th post I opened up it was three pages long with about 6 people who have had the same problem. 5 minutes later I drove the car and it runs like a bat out of hell. You ask what was the problem? Long story short if you have miss, lack of power, or very lean condition under boost and you are running the stock efi CHECK YOUR ECU CONNECTIONS. The reason I didn't do this at first is because I had just recently removed the plugs cleaned them and put di-electric grease on them so I assumed they were good. NOPE I unpluged them and plugged them back in and presto all gone. This post is so that a few more people know about this and do not waste so much time and grief over it. Although I might have been the only one on this board who didn't know.

Dang downloading double post. Why no delete button no one replied?

Unless the guy offers to pay, you more than likely will not get your money for garage rent since it was your choice too keep it in the garage. If you take the time you might be able to get a new title but its likely that in the middle of the process he will come and get the car. Or the third option tell the owner that in 1 week or a couple of days you will drive the car and park it at such and such place, lock the car, and mail the keys to him. Then you can forget all about it.

http://www.ugoto.com/videos/how_to_beat_high_gas_prices.html

Not as low as I thought. Can't wait to see it fully loaded though. You sissy just because you wake up at 5a.m. every morning doesn't give you an excuss not to work on your z. Sheesh kids these days.

Congrats Mike. Post some vids if you get a chance. Now take it easy don't break it in. Key word there is break:twisted:

This is on a 83' 280zx turbo motor. At idle the oil pressure is at 0. At 2000rpms it goes to 20psi and at 3500 rpms it goes to 30-35psi. This seems to be about 10psi low at all times. I have tried two different autometer mechanical gauges. One is known to work perfectly. I installed a used oil pump 3 weeks ago. I did not have an oil pressure gauge hooked up before this oil pump so I am unsure if this helped or not. The oil pump was on my friend's car for many months and he had no problems. But he also did not have a oil pressure guage hooked up. I used the old gasket from the oil pump when I installed it but there are no visible leaks. I primed the oil pump with oil when installing it. The oil pump is from a turbo engine. I just changed the oil and oil filter. With no difference. I think I have it narrowed down too a bad pickup screen or a worn oil pump spring. What do you guys think? Thanks

Well I found out my turbo was going out. It wasn't quite that gone but it was starting to lose boost. I went out and found a rebuilt one for a good price. Finished installing it and no more smoke at all. My concern now is why the first one went bad. I believe its an oil pressure problem so i'll see if I can find out where my problem is. I know the turbo is getting oil, since I removed the feed line while the car was running and oil came out. It was only a drip at idle but as soon as I reved the engine it came pouring out. We will see. Maybe clogged pick up screen or ...

My 260z carbed motor had the fidanza flywheel it its throttle response and able to rev was just the same as my 00' miata. The car felt much quicker in 1st and 2nd and it the car itself felt lighter. Within a week I got use to the lighter flywheel and daily drove this car for a month in houston traffic.

I ran the stock timing 24 degrees on the ghetto beast when I dynoed it at 20psi spike then down to 18psi and had no pinging. This was with the not so great starion intercooler and I was standing right next to the engine so I heard nothing. When I upped it too 23 spike and 20 psi there was slight pinging above 5500rpms. On my new car I have run 19spike down to 17psi on the stock 24 degrees timing (83 ecu) with an npr intercooler with no pinging. I am going to run the car with 28 degrees with 15psi and see if it doesn't ping. I'm looking to get back my boost response. Also this is in houston, texas summer heat where we have 95 degrees with 50-60% humidity. This is without the heat index.

Ok don't laugh. But back in my experimenting stages I took the a/c blower out of my dash and hooked it up to my intake on my 91 sentra se-r. It was compeltly sealed. I hooked it up to the stock wiring so I turned it on by switching a/c fan on 1,2,3,4 I never dynoed it but I did run it against my friends stock automatic eclipse gs-t. The first run was on setting 4 and I beat him by 3 car lengths. The second run was with it off and I beat him by 1 car length. We were always driving places together so we tested it many different times and with the fan on I would always just a tad bit more pull on him. I estimated 5hp difference. The leaf blower will put out alot more air the a/c blower so 10hp seems resonable. But imagine this. Your at the drag track. As you pull up to the staging lights you pop the hood, open it up, and grab the little cord and start the leaf blower. Then you lower the hood, hop in the car and stage. Just imagine the laughter from everybody.

If you are having problems with spiking. Something you can do is put a softer spring in there. Therefore the ball will move more of distance between 13psi and 15psi since the spring will compress more. The longest softest spring you can fit will make it less likely to spike but make spool up a tad bit slower.