Thumper

I just installed a l28et and a fuel cell with a walbro 255 fuel pump. The fuel cell is located at the very back in the middle of the car. I have the supply line running to the fuel pump to the passenger side of the car. The fuel pump is mounted 3" above and 4" forward of the fuel outlet. Should I relocate the fuel pump so it is not before the outlet and not above it? I am asking because I am having a slight surge above 4k that seems like I'm running out of fuel. I will hook up an lm-1 tonight to make sure that is indeed running lean and not an ignition problem. My theory is that since it is above the fuel outlet the fuel is having a hard time being sucked up from the fuel pump and pushed to the fuel rail. A flaw in my theory is I filled the cell up with 5 more gallons of fuel and it had the same slight surging above 4k. Thanks

No it does not matter what wire goes where on the injector. Also it doesn't matter what injector cap goes on what injector since they all fire at once.

I too am running the stock tach off of the tach output on the msd6al. Just run the stock wire over there and it should work. No resistor or diode needed.

Hey its not too ghetto. Its solid. Protects the cell from any and all road debris. And in a week or two it will be sealed from fumes. Oh yeah one more thing who's z is running. Yeah thats right mine.

Thanks. Looks like I will have to trace the wire so that I can see what yellow wire to hook it up. Oh fun:twisted:

I was able to get the 15/16" master cylinder and the brake booster from a 83 280zx to fit in my early 260z. I had to turn the brake boost upside down to make it fit but all the holes and linkage line up perfectly still.

Sweet, but I could take it... um, maybe not. I love how the dyno can't even read above 1500hp so they are estimating after that. So how much power does your car make? Well i'm not too sure since the dyno ONLY goes to 1500hp. I wonder if it would be fast at the track or it might just be a dyno queen.

Alittle while ago I played with my t3 turbo at 23psi. I compared it to 20psi and there was about 10hp and 10lb-tq different. The car did handle the 20psi at 2800rpm then dropping down to 18psi by 6k for about 2 months. I sold the engine and turbo after that so I am unsure on how much longer it would have lasted. I agree bastaad 18psi is just asking to replace the turbo. My recommendation would run 15psi. You would only loose 10hp or so but your power would be more smoother. Less torque but with almost same hp. Also there are people who have been running 15psi for a year or two on the stock t3. I would concentrate on cleaning up the a/f ratio alittle to get the more power you want. Good luck

Only time I really notice panty lines is when there aren't any. I am usually just staring at then think to myself hey I don't see any panty lines so either a. g-string/thong or b. NO panties. About the member thing i'm never thinking about a member when a girl is stiing in front of me with a mini skirt on.

Well I fixed my ecu problem. But in the process of "checking my connections" I cut my entire #2 plug off. I am unable to tell what solid wire is for the a/c and what wire is for my start signal. If anybody knows a way to trace it or what plug left, middle, or right on the ecu it would be greatly appreciated? The real question is it absolutely necessary to have the start signal? I know the ecu makes the car run really rich for the first 30 seconds. But if one was to not hook it up would the car not want to start? Thanks.

LOL thanks metro. I just fixed the problem and was coming back to let everyone know what was wrong. It was so simple the relay wasn't getting a 12 switch telling to it to turn on. Oh well I guess its better that I figured it out instead of someone telling me. Although the later would have been quicker and easier. Well now all i need to do is install my o2 sensor, fuel pump, and hook up fuel lines to my fuel cell and it should start. Nay it will start:rockon: Thanks again for all your help.

Congrats on court today. Hopefully next time they will be ready so that they won't waste yours and the courts time.

Update!!! Ok I have found out my ecu light is not turning on. So its either not getting power (unlikely) or its not getting a 12volt switch telling it to turn on (likely). I have narrowed it down to three locations. The first location is the #2 plug. I have the yellow wire hooked to starter solenoid. The yellow w/ white stripe on the power transistor. And the black and green wire grounded. The other wires are left stock. The other area it might be is the plug next to the #2 plug. It is a white connector with 5 wires attached to it and non of them are going anywhere. My third area my problem might be is over by the battery. I have the efi relay hooked up and then the brown and green wire hooked to the battery. Then there are 5 wires loose. I believe these wires went to the fuel relay. I am using the stock 260z body wiring harness to controll the starter, fuel pump, alt, and etc.... Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Getz thanks for the generosity. I know the owner of a local pick a part with lots of z's. So if need be I can just grab one and try it out. My ecu is an auto ecu but from what I've read there is no difference. Well it looks like my ecu is not getting turned on since my green light never comes on. Where does the ecu get a 12+ switched from. I thought it came from the #2 plug solid yellow. But moby says thats only for the start signal. So how does the ecu know the ignition is on. I do not think I have that hooked up so that should be my problem. Thanks.

Ok here is an update. My ecu green light never comes on. Not in the off position, on position, or starting. Does this mean that the problem is ecu isn't getting power? Or does it mean that ecu is not getting a signal from a sensor to turn the light on and to send a spark. At my efi relay my brown wire is getting a constant 12+. The other three wires coming from the efi relay are not getting any power. My guess is that one of the wires is a switch 12 to turn on the relay but I am unsure of what one this would be. Please please help i'm about too burn the stock efi and sell a kidney and buy megasquirt. I really don't have the money for megasquirt just yet so I would rather fix this. Thanks.

Well the car does turn over since I have the body wiring harness still attached. The transitor is getting a 12+ switched voltage but it is coming from the body wiring. I can not tell if the ecu is getting power. The other transistor wire yellow w/ white stripe is not getting any power even while cranking. Althought I am unsure if my digital volt meter has a fast enough refresh rate. I am unable to test if the injectors are firing since I have not installed my fuel pump or fuel cell. Thanks for you help.

I just finished installing my motor into my z:twisted: . Only problem is it does not have any spark. It has an 83' 280zxt ecu, distributor, and engine wiring harness. The engine wiring harness is hooked up too all sensors. Off of the no.2 plug I have the yellow solid wire hooked to a 12+ constant. The yellow w/white stripe wire to the power transitor. The black wire to a good ground. Also on the power tranistor I have a 12+ switched to the power transitor. Over by the battery I have a green relay. Then I have a 12 gauge green and brown wire connected to the positive terminal. I then have about five 16 gauge wires just loose. There is a white, green, black w/white stripe and a few others. I am unsure what these wires do and think this is my problem. I have a volt meter but I am unsure if it can detect the rapid voltage that the ecu sends to the transitor. When I install my fuel cell and pump I will check if the fuel injectors are firing. That way I will know if my ecu is getting power. I have the stock 260z body wiring harnes taking care of the alternator, starter, and fuel pump. Thanks for your help.

Update!!! - Install fuel cell and fuel pump - Install 280zx front brakes and redo rear drums - Hope that the hydraulic lifters in the head all hold pressure - Sell 3.9 diff and install 3.36 diff - Recharge a/c system - Hope the a/c system holds a charge - Register, Inspect, and get insurance on car - And drive and then repeat intill car is deamed half-way reliable:twak: - Paint the car without any runs or orange peel:twisted: - Drive to SEZ without broken car parts Oh and find out why its not getting spark... Looks like i'm almost ready. I think.

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Hey jersey are you going to make it to sez? If I get my drag radials on time I might be knocking on 11's door. We might have alittle race to see who gets there first. I'm thinking about cheating though and using a 35-50shot of nitrous:twisted: I guess I'll have to see what she will do b4 I think about juiceing. Good luck.

Its either the head temperature switch or the coolant temp switch. Coolant temp switch is located on the front of the engine near the thermostat. The head temp switch is the passenger side of the engine near the rear of the head. It is a two prong connector. I would check both of there resistances. Even if one is off just barely it can cause a big problem.

I have never heard that the p90a with hydraulic lifters having less lift then the p90. Also you do not need a custom cam to run hydraulic lifters. Only problems with hydraulic lifters is they tend to bleed down and not hold pressure as they get older and there are no replacements for them, and once the engine needs to start spinning over 6krpms you will have lots of rocker slap because the lifters can't keep up at that pace. But as long as you have the stock t3 on the engine you do not need to shift above 6k.

A couple of people on this site have made downpipes in the past. But the amount of time and the profit margin was to slim to justify continuing. As of right now if you want a downpipe you are stuck with either doing it yourself or buying it from MSA.http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=15-6037-8-9&Category_Code=PTC15 Since I'm a cheap bastard i'm doing it myself.

Thanks for the input johnc and auxilary. I have figured out what alignment settings I want to run. Only problem is my castor isn't adjustable. Oh well it is time for new t/c bushing anyways. Now I just need to save enough for adjustable t/c rods.

I did consider the tire compounds, but the bfgoodrich were bought for my old car when I wanted a taller final drive ratio. Since the rear tires are over an inch higher than the fronts it would look weird if I put them in front. Plus I will need all the traction I can get back there when my motor is up and running. I think i'm going to try to tune the understeer out through tire pressure, shock adjustment, and alignment.