Thumper

Tim, welcome to hybridz. All of you questions have been asked and answered many, many, many times in length. I would recommend searching for the answers and reading as much as possible. The quick answer is yes you need a fuel cell if you want to do it right. No you need to run bigger fuel lines for 300+hp. When you put the fuel cell in you can run different size fittings. Most go with 8an for supply, 6an for return, and 6an for the vent on the gas tank. Good luck.

Only problem with the hige end leaning it out is when the demand for air is the highest. So the turbo is trying harder at 5500rpms then it would be 3500 but at the same boost. So the turbo is shooting even hotter air then normal. So although you have less power there and it is more likely to ping at lower rpms because of this you still have the problem with hot air being shoved into the combustion chamber. Worse case senario 13:1 could be done probably with no ping. I have even done a run at 14:1 with no ping (on accident) But on safety side I would try for 12.5:1 at your shift point so 5500-5700. I too have the problem with a slight miss at idle and when slowing down in gear. If I richen it up it goes away but then a/f ratio is way too low. I will live with the slight miss for now. Soon meqasquirt soon.

I was just pondering how much the afm is a restriction in the stock efi system and then it dawned on me. I have never looked a the flap or top of the afm while it was being dynoed. At 15-18psi I wonder how close I am to maxing the afm out and how much a restricition it really is. So has anybody looked at there afm while doing a dyno? Even at lower boosts let me know. Thanks.

Hey bastaard just had a smiliar problem on my z last night. I just got her running and last night I turned the boost up too 17 spike and 15 hold. Right as the boost would spike it would stumble some of the times. I have the msd 6al w/ blaster 2 coil and magnecore wires. Only bad thing is I have some old bpr6es-11 spark plugs in there. I had them gaped at .050" then lowered them to .040 and the miss went away. I'm going to throw some new bp7es-11 in there today and put the gap at the the stock .043" It should be able to handle it. But I am fairly certain that you have a miss. About running rich have you played around with your afm spring. I am running the stock efi and a adjustable frp. The fpr is a 1:1. My a/f ratio is 12:1 when boost is building drops to 10.5:1 then goes to 11.4:1 I could lean it out alittle bit but I was just trying to get it close to what I wanted. I would try tightening the afm 3 teeth then upping fuel pressure 1 or 2 psi. This will make it more lean at idle, cruise, and boost build.

Garrett very nice numbers. Well I can't help technically but i can help with I was in the same place as you a week ago. Couldn't find this dang wire that I needed to hook up. Took 3 days to finally hook it up. But once it was running I forgot all about the troubles. So good luck and keep us posted it will all work out.

Looking nice. Can't wait intill its finished.

Hey 73turbo240z if you need an intercooler or rear-end let me know since my turbo is out of commision at the moment.

Nice but I might have made it out of galvanized pipe instead of pvc. That way it weights more like a real one and its a tad bit safer. I would also install a one way valve on the end to make sure no fluid goes the wrong way. Atleast now I know the next hey I'm bored lets start a project is going to be. Actually I just might not be crazy enough to do that. Then again...

Me i'm more of fire man. 8 zippos, 3 butane lighters, bags and bags of left over fireworks, and a butane torch. Now all i need is wwII flame thrower, and blow-torch.

Both hands and feet up in the air.

I forgot about the ecu adjusting the timing from the afm. I now know it is not cause by fuel. I have gone from 10:1 to 16:1 a/f ratio and it changes nothing. I am in the process of putting a 3" exhaust on and a 3.545 rear-end. So this will help. Also installing an npr intercooler so I can turn my timing back up had it retarded 2 degrees for long pulls in 4th. So this all should help i'll let you know tom how it goes.

I'm almost ready. Its running and on the road but the rear-end needs to be replaced and I have to redo my fuel cell box, change spark plugs, change oil, and make a 3" exhaust before I make the trip. Then just tune it alittle, fill with gas (take out a loan for that), and help build on3go's and 73turbo240z's z's.

No there would be no problems switching to synthetic. The benefits are less friction (more power and less wear and tear), and longer oil change interval. I downside is since synetic will clean out the gunk that has built over time you engine may start to leak or burn oil if your seals are not in good shape. About the clunking noise see if it is a loose exhaust or a bad cv shaft.

I will try to unplug the boost line and see if it comes faster. I think I had the the MBC installed backwards for the first test drive and I don't remember it spooling any quicker but its worth a try. I am running the stock t3 wastegate so I would have to thread it. I do not believe you can swap out springs on it. I'll let you know when I try it, thanks.

lol! Yeah thats true. That didn't come out the way I wanted it.

Between the houston z guys and my self we have had alot of different intercoolers on our z's. We have tried the starion, volvo, npr, and some others. We have yet to try the buick intercooler. The starion intercooler handled 18-19psi, the volvo handled 15psi, and the npr has yet to be maxed out. The volvo intercooler is the same dimensions as the npr, except it is thicker, and made of metal. So as sleeperZ and scottie pointed out the design and construction is the most important. Go home and tell your girlfriend or wife the hybridz says size doesn't always matter. I have done some searching on the buick one and would say it would fall between the npr and starion in my ranking. The only problem in my applicaton is that I would have to make custom endtanks or pipes to install. I do like however that is it is small (less blocking the radiator or condenser), and is black (less likely be seen by the mister ricer). And NPR's are getting harder and harder to find so this sounds like a good option for the most but radical z's 350hp+ or heavy road racing.

Nope it is reverse. There is a certain amount of air that bypasses the flap of the afm. So even if you completely close the flap the engien "should" continue to idle. When you close the flap manually all you are doing is telling the ecu that it is getting alot less air and it in turn gives it alot less fuel. So that is why it idles better. My guess is your car is running too rich. If you have never touched the afm then I would first look at the tps sensor, head temp sensor, fuel pressure. If the tps is not open at idle then the car will richen the fuel mixture at all times. If the head temp sensor is off then it will think the car is colder than it is so it will give it more fuel. Finally if the fuel pressure is higher the car will getting more fuel since the fuel injector will spray more fluid thru it during the time it is open. Look there first. Good luck.

Lucky SOB why I outta:x Nice find. Looks to be in good shape too.

Actually turbo creep is when boost goes higher than what I set. Usually the turbo spinning too fast caused by the wastegate not being able to bypass enough of the exhaust gases. I am talking about turbo lag. I believe my problem is caused by my injectors and stock efi. I think if I upgrade to meqasquirt the problem will go away, but I am unsure what is causing the problem. My exhaust manifold and turbo is heavily ported, and my downpipe is a custom 2.5" mandrel bent pipe. So this is not the cause. So any more input on what could be causeing this? I believe that this is a problem that others are having and thought to be normal. Thanks

+ cable goes on the top terminal of the two. The yellow switched power connect to the spade connection in between the two.

I would try for 12.0-12.5 That way you will not be running so rich that you lose power and gas mileage, but yet not so lean that you will harm the engine.

Nice Z. I think I have seen it somewhere on this site though. Anybody's?

I don't think that person even clicked on the post. Probably does not know what rasterbating is.

No ruffled feathers here. I have not heard too much about the buick intercooler. Do you have any numbers on how big it is? Just wondering how it would compare to a npr, starion, volvo, and etc...

No offense but you sound like someone who thinks because it is like this on my z at this boost level means that i'm right and everyone else including people with much more experience are wrong. I'm not saying I have the more experience then you, but I am saying that many people who do have more experience have said the mk3 intercooler is junk. Here is just ONE post/article about it. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98878&highlight=mk3 Also at 7psi the drop might not be big, but at 12-15 its huge. It also depends on where the wastegate gets it signal and where the autometer gets its signal. Even if it was in the correct location some turbos due to bigger exhaust, better intake piping, etc... will make 8-9psi with the wastegate stock.