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Ok I will try to answer the questions to the best of my knowledge. Understeer is at all times. Under power it will understeer more When it understeers I slow down, because unless I powerslide the car will understeer I am not braking at all at corner entry No I am not trail braking I have a dozen or so solo II events in my miata never raced this z Front 225/50 yoko es100 Rear 225/60 bfgoodrich sports both on the stock turbo rim 15x6 Tire pressure is set at 32psi all around My alignment is unknown will check b4 I make any adjustments I have a 3.9 open diff will soon be upgrading to 3.36 open I have not driven this car at the track yet. The understeer problem is from some spirited driving so far. The rear sway bar endlinks were a just tad loose. I have tightened them so when the car is driving again I'll see if that helps. I see that arizona sway bar kits come with a 29mm front sway bar so i'm starting to agree with john that its not the sway bar. Although could it be that I have over-tightened my endlinks on the front sway bar? I have not had much chance to play with the settings. Only reason i'm concerned is how unbalanced the car feels. My 83' 280zx was a neutral handler. And this car feels like a sedan fwd. Thanks for your time.

I do like the reducer cone. But I do not like the 90 bend then the 90 then the 60 then two 30's. I would rather run a 2.5" with two 45's similar to the downpipe scottie made awhile back. Picture stolen from wigenout-s30 post:twak: So I think i'm going to try to squeeze the 2.5" pipe right next to the tranny like scottie did. And if I can run 3" yay but I won't lose any sleep if I don't.

Yep it was attached to the intake manifold, teed-off from my autometer gauge. My autometer gauge was reading about 1psi lower than their machine though. I only put it up too 23psi for the dyno on the street I ran 20psi.

The answer is about 10hp and 10lb-tq. I was just looking at my old dyno graphs and noticed my boost setting was higher than I thought. It looks like it peaked at 23.15 and then dropped to 18psi by 6100rpm. The run before was at 20.47psi then drop to 16.5psi This was on my old engine that I didn't love like I should have. The lighter line, that can barely be seen, is the lower boost setting. The dip in power at 5200rpm on the 23psi run was from a loose connector on my ignition module. This is still with the boost controller dialed down the t3 can put out more air it seems. I would not think much more though and obviously it is just a super heated hair dyrer at this boost level, but none the less I thought this was interesting. The engine specs were: 83' l28et P90a w/ hydraulic lifters Starion Intercooler Homemade MBC 1Gbov 2" intercooler piping 60mm throttle body 370cc injectors on a jsk fuel rail Walbro 255 fuel pump Aftermarket 1:1 FPR Stock efi with modded afm Everything else was stock

I have been reading alot of old posts and came to the same conclusion. I think I will go ahead and run 2.5" intill I clear the tranny then run 3" the rest of the way. Thanks

I have a 74 260z. It has tokico adjustable struts with suspension techniques springs. It has energy suspension bushings on everything except the t/c rods. The sway bars are I believe suspension techniques. The front is 1 1/8" and the rear is 7/8" The front swap bar has brand new endlinks and the sway bar mounts have been reinforced. The rear sway bar endlinks are in good shape and are tight. My problem is the car pushes way too much. It will only oversteer if persuaded to with lots of throttle. My guess is that the front sway bar is too stiff and this is causing the understeer. Any other thoughts what would cause understeer? If it is my front sway bar what are ways I can loosen it up? I have not had my car aligned yet so I am unsure of specs. This will be the first thing I do before I start adjusting other aspects. Also the struts are set at 2 in front and 1 in rear and are in good shape. Thanks

Ok i'm getting ready to install my engine. I am going to fabricate a dp for it once its installed. I am running the stock t3 turbo on 74 260z with the n/a 5-spd tranny. I have a 3" mandrel bent exhaust with a 3" straight through muffler. I will have about 250-280hp. My next purchase, which will be around christmas, will be a new turbo so I will have to make a new dp when I up the power anyways. I just cut off the stock dp from the flange. I will be reusing the stock flange. As I see it I have three options. A. Run a 2.5" dp with two 45 degree angles B. Have one 45 degree angle as a 2.5" then b4 the next 45 increase it to 3" C. Run about 1" of 2.5" piping then increase it too 3" while making the first 45 degree angle I have both the 2.5" and 3" mandrel bent piping. I have also ported the exhaust manifold and turbo. The dp hole and flange has been enlarged by 1/16". So what do you guys think is the added complexity and difficutly factor going to be worth it to run the 3" system or should I just be happy with my 2.5"? Thanks

I had the same problem on my su's and it turned out to be the floats. Get a clear tube and set the floats. This is more than likely it. If it was needles it would happen all the time no matter what gear. Since 3rd, 4th, and 5th last longer thus in the higher rpms longer the float runs out of gas. Only other problems would be bad float check valve or fuel pump. When you adjust the mixture nuts make sure to push the nozzle up because sometimes the choke lever will not fully seat them without alittle nudge.

Nah the 3.9 is an open diff. It is in great shape though no slop at all. Sounds good on the caravan. What day are you guys thinking about heading out?

On the stock t3 and stock efi the ghetto beast dynoed 280.9hp and 403.9tq. This was at 20psi droping to 18 by 5500rpm. And it even lastest a few months. But only a few.

I guess i'll add my to do list. Tommorrow I should knock a few out hopefully. - Finish porting the turbo and downpipe - Build a downpipe - Install fuel cell, fuel lines, and fuel pump - Install msd igntion, stock efi, and radio - Weld up the intake manifold holes from emission crap - Finish putting engine together mostly intake and exhaust manifold - Put on fidanza flywheel with clutch - Install engine with new engine mounts - Buy and install bov and intercooler - Install all the piping and bov - Install 280zx front brakes and redo rear drums - Hope that the hydraulic lifters in the head all hold pressure - Sell 3.9 diff and install 3.36 diff - Recharge a/c system - Hope the a/c system holds a charge - Register, Inspect, and get insurance on car - And drive and then repeat intill car is deamed half-way reliable:twak: - Paint the car without any runs or orange peel:twisted: - Drive to SEZ without broken car parts

???

Its probably sad but I would take the car over her. A girl like that and a guy like me wouldn't last long. I car like that and guy like me might not last long either but it would be from my doing or the trees fault. It was a nice suprise to see her driving the car the way it was made for.

Actually the 94+ models can get up to 210hp at the wheels with stock internals. This is with a off the shelf supercharger kit. The turbo kits can see 230hp. This is the limit of the stock internals though. So 180hp is believe able if he has the boost upgrade kit from jackson. If its just the reg kit then it should have around 160wrhp or 180 crank hp.

Also check the head temperature switch. It is on the passenger side of the engine near the fire wall. I would also check the coolant temp switch. Its on the thermostat housing. It is the passenger side sensor with two wires.

Well my friend and dad also thought it was girlie car then... I let them drive it. They don't talk anymore. Mine has an intake, exhaust, and header runs a 15.2@88mph. Top speed 137. But it really shines in suspension and brakes. It will out handle and stop most other sports cars. At solo II events a stock miata and stock c5 will turn about the same times depending on the course, even though lot less powerful. But then again i'm thinking about selling mine because its not fast enough. Damn 12 sec z.

This is just hypothetical because I can't afford a new engine. But we are agreed it does free up so hp. So do it at your own risk.

The movie "Office Space" comes to mind. I love that movie, i'm always tempted to try something like that but need the money to much.

I don't think those are wide enough:twisted: Makes my 245's seem seem like skinnies. Nice looking. Have you decided on what flares you are going to run?

Better have some big wheelie bars. Damn thats a big engine.

I have a fidanza flywheel that was used with a 225mm clutch and pressure plate in my 260z. I want to put my 240mm aftermarket pp and clutch on it. I would like to make sure there are no differences in thickness or anything else I cannot think of that would not allow me to do this. I have gone to fidanza's webpage and looked up the part numbers for non-turbo and turbo z's and they are the same. But I would like to know from someone who has used the flywheel with both the 225mm clutch and the 240mm clutch, or if you just confirm from another source please. My main reason I'm concerned is two other websites have listed a flywheel for the non-turbos but do not list the flywheel for the turbos. Thanks

I had a similar problem in my friends 240sx. We tried alot of different things and nothing helped. Finally he got sick of it and bought a complete energy suspension bushings for his car including diff and it went away. No bushing was broken just worn. If it only does it once awhile I would not worry about it. So how does the synthetic feel any little difference?