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Looking good. I don't think you have a big enough turbo though. I do like the rims alot. Are those regular zg flares or carbon fiber can't tell from the picture. Also are you going to keep it yellow or...?

I'm not worthy. My z is not worth of being seen with your car. Oh well I guess it doesn't matter since you are going to be in my rearview mirror anyways. Looking good mike. The blue turned out better than I thought. Make sure you don't have anything underneath that car when you put the engine and other stuff on the car you might squish it. Even if its just a bolt. I hope its not too low and you have lost all your suspension travel. Good luck tom.

I believe that is highlights from the gumball rally if I'm not mistaken. The silver Mercedes won the unofficial race. They hold it every year once in america and then once in europe. This years was in europe. Just to enter the race it costs 40,000 GBP. I want to win the lotto so I could do it just one year.

Wow nice video. Only watched about 20 minutes of it though. Its an hour long. I love the nurnberger(sp) lap. He is just flying. And at the end thats insane. He just passes 200hp like it was nothing. Probably gets up to 230-240 I wonder how accurate the speedo is at that speed. Nice long vid.

Top Gear's website lists the Murcielago as 1650kg. What equals 3637.62lbs So that seems spot on with edmunds. From what I've found top gear is just about never wrong on there specs. Still sweet car. I'll take 2 please:twisted:

It is designed so that you can just unloosed the lower ones without removing too much. But sometimes the heat shield is bent and you can't do this. But you can loosen the lower ones and remove the top ones and the intake manifold will come off. Also if the intake is off of a 280zx then don't forget to remove the cover in the middle so you can get that bolt. Good luck.

I ran the stock j-pipe hooked up to a 240sx tb no problem. I did cut the stock connector and welded a new larger pipe on to it though so that it would be a straight 2.5" to 2.5".

Well I think I need new valve seals but wanted your guys opinions. Here are the symptons. Car smokes out of exhaust and alittle bit out of the valve cover breather upon deceleration. When idleing or accelerating no smoke. When you first start the car no smoke comes out. When the car is cold very little to no smoke. The smoke is very blue. The vacuum gauge shows 16 with little movement. The smoke gets worse the warmer the car gets. The pcv valve is in good shape. Any inputs or questions? Thanks

It might sound stupid but make sure the bolts are tigtned down on the distributor. At higher rpm they can come loose and walk around. Also check to make sure you rotor is good. If its bad it can also move around and effect timing.

I would get the street disc with the heavy duty pressure plate. I would also go and find a turbo flywheel and buy a turbo clutch. It is 15mm bigger and makes a world of difference. If your slave cylinder or master cylinder aren't in great shape then the heavy duty pressure plate will make them go out right away or faster. If in question I would get a slave cylinder and swap it out while your done there. I think they are $20 from most parts stores. That way you don't have to drive home in 3rd gear because you can't shift:twisted:

If its from a turbo car then its internally regulated. Also a way to find out is remove the external regulator or bypass it and hook up the alternator directly.

If its not electrical then it sounds like you are running to lean. I would check your tps, afm, and head temperature sensor. Also make sure you timing is set right.

All you have to do to install this is re-clock the compressor side, use the the 280zx wastegate or modify the 300zx wastegate, put the exhaust housing downpipe wastegate thingy ma gig on instead of the stock 300zx one (or just use the 300zx downpipe, and put a longer rubber hose on the drain tube.

Thanks I think i'm going to try 1/16" toe-in on the rear, and no toe in front. One of my pet peeves is a skittish car at highway+ speeds. I will also be looking to replace my t/c rod bushings too and I probably will shim them while i'm at it. I looking at max 4 degrees but will probably do 2 since this car will mostly be driven on city streets and I have quick steer knuckles. I'll let you know what my alignment numbers are when I get a chance to take this thing in.

Actually I did get an alignment after I got the suspension upgraded. Or atleast the PO did. I just bought this car so I am unsure if the alignment is still good. I don't think I am going to run that much toe-in. From what I've read 0 toe-in is best. Maybe 0.2 degrees for help with understeer. I will see my specs soon enough. I just wanted to make sure everything was in good shape and nothing needed to be replaced.

Spill the beans. Trust me it can't be worse than me trying to get my car to start for three days when my only problem was the efi relay was not being turned on:twak:

I have only used a LM-1 wideband, but I have heard that an egt is more of an educated guess. Once you know what temp your exhaust runs usually then you can tell if you are running hotter or colder to see you a/f ratio afterwards. Then again with an egt you can also tell what ignition timing is doing to your exhaust temps. But for tuning a/f ratio and nowing exactly what you are running I don't think you can beat an wideband O2.

Ok I haven't had the money to do an alignment just yet but have gotten rid of the understeer almost completely. I loosened the front sway bar just a tad (I was smooshing the endlinks way too much), tightened the rear sway bar (they were alittle too loose), and then I upped the front psi to 32psi cold keeping the rears at 30 psi. This seem to help alot. I will get the alignment done in the next few weeks and I will fix the brake booster so I should be ready for my first track event soon:twisted: Only problem with the stock efi i'm having too much boost lag:x I need Megasquirt.

Looking good. Can't wait to see it when its done.

Hook up a vacuum gauge and see if what kind of vacuum you are getting. Also check to make sure the brake booster is holding vacuum.

Check head temp switch, coolant switch, tps switch, and for vacuum leaks. Also make sure you don't have the start signal coming from number 2 plug going to a constant 12+. It needs to be going to the start signal.

Its either your afm or you have a leak in your intake piping some where. Check all hoses, bov, egr, aac, both nipples on turbo, and etc...

I have run both jacobs and magnecores. Not a big difference except I have found jacobs ignition systems suck on imports compared too msd so I stopped using there products. Long story short I got shafted of $250.00 when I was 17 so $250.00 was like $2500.00 now. So I with either run magnecore or Tuscan wires. The tuscans are very rare. I have run magnecore on my last three motors and noticed a difference everytime I installed them.

I would also clean all of your connectors with some di-electric grease. You can buy it at most auto parts store. Make sure you get the afm and the ecu connections real well.