preith

You can buy an adapter to enable to refill the small portables off a 20 pounder or similar to. I see them for sale occasionally. EDIT: I've also been itching to build something like this: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/me4.html I have a powerstroke diesel which uses over 3 gallons of oil at a change, I'd love to put it to some use!

Here's a cool Spitfire/S2000 conversion which was featured in Grassroots Motorsports a few years ago: http://britishv8.org/swaps/joesspit.htm

In my club (Midwest Council Sports Car Club) the officials always stress to find some way of disabling the ABS, and also stated that in just about anything other than an F1 car it's a detriment to your lap times.

Yeah, it's a real killer taking 5 min of ones time to cut the other one.

What's the difference between an LD28 drive spindle and a standard one which has had the shaft cut off just above the front cover bearing surface area?

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102293&highlight=distributor+oil+pump

You have to wonder sometimes... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Datsun-240Z-Lots-of-Potential-6-Cylinder_W0QQitemZ4587708146QQcategoryZ39405QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Unfortunately I don't have any pics, but I installed lexan into my stock steel hatch. The lexan is about 1/2 the weight of the glass, and without it, the steel one really isn't too heavy or awkward. I took it off the car and set it on a card table. I bought the lexan from Home Depot. Their stuff is pretty thin, something like .095", but IMO just about any thickness will require additional bracing. I used 90 deg angle alumuinum stock (.125"x.25"), also from there. I'd have reservations about using lexan on a street vehicle I also bought some 1/4 thick plexiglass, cut it into strips with my angle grinder, and sandwiched it between the lexan and lip of the hatch to help bring it up towards the surface. I was surprised how much more time consuming this was, probably 10 hrs completed, but the end result was worth it. On a side note, lexan seems to scratch easier than plexiglass, but it is much more resistant to cracking, even over the high impact stuff that Home Depot has sold in the past. It's not cheap though either, I seem to remember the sheet costing something around $75. I also found that it's very easy to bend into shapes without braking as well.

This has been discussed before, I wish I could remember where I posted it; may have been on another board. Anyways, I ran high strength threaded rod throught the original captured nuts and put a 1/8" plate on the top with nuts as well. It's held together well so far.

It seems like all the Zcar documentaries I've ever seen on tv have had excerpts of that commercial, still cool though. Cracks me up, "big disc brakes up front"... I just saw the Monterey historics on speedtv a few days ago. Morton led the Can-am race in the very rare 'McLeagle', a McClaren extensively modified by Dan Gurney's shop back in the day, way cool. He eventually had some kind of mechanical failure, oh well.

A Corvette wrecked at Putnam, a fence post went through the car, then through the drivers seat and broke his shoulder blade. Could've been much worse... There are pics about 1/2 way down. http://www.nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=6643 EDIT: oops, meant to put this in the non-tech board, can someone move it for me?

Be sure to check your sanctioning body's rulebook. The last time I read the SCCA GCR, it listed a minimum of .120 wall, 1.5" tubing, and .095 wall for 1.75", and I believe that may, or already has changed to .120 as well.

I posted something similar to this a few month back and didn't get too many responses. I google searched shipping companies, requested many, many free quotes, and wasn't able to find anything cheaper than $850 CA to WI. In my case I was looking to have an inoperative car shipped. It was a nice rust free one, good paint, etc, but it just doesn't seem worth it when the price of the car is less than the shipping. Rail shipping didn't seem to be any better in price either, and that was having to pick it up from the rail yard in Chicago.

It seems like age and heat cycling play a role. In my '73 AZ car, it was hard and brittle, and very easy to take off with a chisel alone. In my '77 WI car this wasn't the case. I ended up using heat gun and it peeled off pretty easily. I didn't occur to me to use dry ice and would have tried it. EDIT: Carburetor cleaner works VERY well for taking off any residual material left over. It did not affect the primer coat beneath it, not that it really mattered to me.

I was one of the unlucky ones who were ripped off by him as well, about 18 months ago. Fortunatley it wasn't too much, $50 for a pair of halfshafts. I contacted a few officers from the Triad club, which both replied. I can't seem to find the emails...but I know I saved them. I'll keep digging. Anyways, I seem to remember one of them mentioning that he had a relative who served in the W-S police department and that was his ticket out. Don't know if it's true or not though. I'd love to see this guy get nailed. I filed an official complaint with the IFCC, but nothing came of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955-Datsun-Classic-mini-Bentley-Rolls-Royce-Jaguar-car_W0QQitemZ4582674019QQcategoryZ6188QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I always use a DuPont etching primer for bare metal stuff, it's not cheap either. The local auto paint store carries it.

This has been discussed before. I did a little searching but was unable to come up with anything. I do remember another member mentioning that sand rail dune buggies have been using blow through set-ups for years and have many different emulsion tubes for tuning. There's a good website out there too.

Dude! In your last thread I replied with another thread which had my solution: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102562&highlight=radiator I tried the ZX lower hose as well and had the same issues. This is discussed in this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92323&highlight=lower+radiator+hose

Try searching. I found this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88136&highlight=fiberglass+bumpers

My front bar is from Saner, three hole variety. I bought it when he was just starting out on his own, the owner is, or was, a great guy. I had no problems reaching him and what not, but that was a few years ago, maybe things have changed. Lets not start on another rant, but Top End Performance sells them. I couldn't find them on their web site, but I seem to remember them tacking on an addtional charge to their bars and modifying them. A buddy of mine bought one from them about 5 years ago, no complaints.