SleeperZ

Re the Merkur/SVO "brown top" injectors, I pull them out of the yards all the time. You can easily find a set of four on ebay. I've also been known to sell them in sets of 6, tested.

More precisely, the "brown tops" are 36lb, but they are rated at 3 bar fuel pressure (that is the stock Ford regulator). I have tested them at 37 psi (37 psi), and they flow about 370 cc/min. These injectors can be found on later model Mustang SVOs, turbo Thunderbirds, turbo Mercury Cougars, and all the Merkur XR4Tis. I can usually find a set every other week at the U-pull-its.

Yes. The IC cools the air, and makes it more dense. The end result is more power, even if you are measuring boost at the compressor, but if you are measuring it at the manifold, you have even more. At 9 psi I ran a 14.9 1/4, after with same 9 psi (at the manifold) I ran a 14.4 (same 2.1 sec 60').

I thought this discussion was focused on electric fans only. An electric fan will save HP, because you can turn it off at speeds over 35-40mph, depending on how big your intercooler is As far as electric cooling pumps go, there could be some savings to be realized there as well, because an electric pump can be run at a constant, and perhaps optimal rate, where a mechanical pump has to pump enough coolant at idle but still must work at high rpm, where the losses must increase dramatically. This is speculation on my part however, as I'm not a fluid dynamics expert, just a sparky!

I just got me some too. What size did you get? I am staying with a stock size tire to run on the street (215/60/14, to maintain the 'sleeperz' image). Let us know how they stick at the strip.

But the only reason we don't like Honda questions is we don't know jack about them - you know, they rotate the opposite direction, they drive the front wheels...

I've got a TEP bar on my '78. No fitment issues whatsoever.

I am dying to know what you are building where 6 injectors at 550cc is not enough!!! That injector setup could realize 550 hp!

I have the TEP strut bars installed in my S30. As delivered, the firewall triangle will not do much good, but I laid a strip of 1/8" thick steel in the channel across the top of the firewall and bolted it down in several places, including the tabs of the strut brace. It seems to be extremely rigid now, and I'm quite happy with it. BTW, I'd love to see that free-body diagram, it makes sense to me about the one big triangle being more effective than the two small triangles separated by the width of the flimsy firewall.

I'm using the V trim TO4B on my hybrid - the stock turbine. I am really happy with it. I don't think you need to consider clipping if you are going with a relatively stock motor, it will probably just delay your spool up.

The L28T conversions I know of do 12's easy and 11's with slicks. Andy's board may not be totally populated with L28ETs, but I'm running 13's with a stock motor and fuel system, Scotty MiZ ran 12's with a stock L28 motor, and Shane ran 11's on slicks with a stock L28 motor. The L28Ts, $ for $ can easily hold their own on the strip with the V8 conversions (the small blocks anyway ) All three folks I mentioned are now building stronger motors with forgies, ARP stuff, etc.., and are just starting to explore the limits of this under-rated powerplant.

It's called schizophrenic! My daily driver is a 4x4 Toyota pickup with a 2.4l, very slow. I drive like a granny until I get behind the Z wheel, and I transform to Mr. Hyde. I do obey the speed limits, no more than +15mph over, but only the crazies go faster. Moderate launches, sometimes with a bit of wheelspin - it's really strange, I get nobody that wants to race, but I love the feeling of blood rushing away from my eyeballs (visions of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, eh?)

The Zs do have a weight advantage...even my 280. Of course I stripped the AC, the bumpers and the spare (it's not a daily driver, but streetable and street legal), but I'm down to 2750 lbs with me and a full tank of gas in it.

There is a vacuum solenoid down on your left side of the engine compartment, below the coil, that controls the EGR. There's lots of little hose crap routed up from there to the EGR valve. I have the diagrams, but no scanner, however the diagrams are published in my Chilton's manual for the '70 - '89 Zcars (it has all the wiring diagrams too). It's an invaluable reference and it only cost me $15.

DAW, I'm no chemist (I'm a sparky, actually), but I'd think you'd want a fluid with the lowest possible specific heat for the quickest possible temperature change. I'm thinking the less heat energy the fluid can hold, the faster it's temperature will rise.

I want to add an additional $0.02 to this discussion. Water has the higher specific heat - adding ethylene glycol reduces the specific heat of the engine coolant. I run about 10/90 coolant to water, just to drop the surface tension and inhibit corrosion. Here is a table of specific heat vs. coolant ratio: Specific heat of aqueous propylene glycol Ethylene should be somewhat comparable to propylene. Can I whine about another thing too? I've heard the idea about coolant restriction aiding the engine cooling thing (because of coolant moving too fast in the radiator??), and I don't buy it. The faster you can move the stuff through the faster you can cool it - it is non-linear, and once you get past a certain flow rate, you have diminishing returns, but you can't cut 20% of your flow and dump more heat. Now I'M theorizing, so [flame suit ON].

I believe the base timing for the L28T is 20 degrees. That's what I've run, and it seems to work well enough without any detonation or hesitation. Of course I'm running a Z31 ECU and MAF, and 13psi intercooooooled boost.

Just because an IC has more volume (what I think of when I hear "bigger") it will not "lose boost". The aspect of an intercooler that creates a loss of boost (or more correctly, a pressure drop) is the 'charge area' or typically the area covered by the end tanks. This isn't the be-all/end-all, the type of construction and the width of the IC also have roles in pressure drop. The reason the NPRs are not the ultimate IC is because they are somewhat thin - unless you use the tallest unit, you will drop significant pressure across it. The only issues people generally have with larger intercoolers is a bit more spool-up (the larger volume takes a bit more time to pressurize), and less fresh air to the radiator, possibly creating cooling problems.

The injectors are connected to the + side of the battery (through fusible link and relay). The ECU will trigger them by applying a - to the other side of the injector bank (3 at a time, batch injection). To test the injector firing, put a test light to the side not connected to the +, and see if it pulses while cranking.

I think the main reason is because the cam turns half the speed of the crank. Also the eccentrics and keys are so close the axis of rotation, any inertial imbalances are almost negligible.

If you can get your intake charge to ambient, that is the definition of 100% efficiency (for an intercooler), which is very difficult to do on an air/air IC. Typically the ICs from Spearco will get efficiencies in the 80% range within the flow specs. I think 20 degrees over ambient is very good.

In this case, the cooling is just the intercooler doing it's job, and you see temperature variations from the changing boost level and changing flow. No fuel is mixed with the air yet - the air temperature is measured before the fuel injectors.

Pete - the problem with going to two small turbos is you divide the exhaust flow between the two. I believe the way the math works on this is the turbine acceleration is proportional to the square of the exhaust flow. By cutting the exhaust flow in half, you may actually increase the spool time, unless your turbines have less than half the mass of the original one. I'm not sure I completely understand this relationship, but most of high power folks go with one big turbo without seriously compromising spoolup.

I'll install a thermocouple in my IC outlet and report this weekend!

Good debate guys. But I'm not budging on my point about the manifold getting cooler thing - if your intake is getting cold from all that raw fuel evaporating inside it, it is cooling the intake air LESS because some of the heat absorbed by the fuel is coming from the manifold and NOT the air charge. This point I made was dependent on equal amounts of fuel and air between the carb'd seup and the EFI. This is decidedly not the case here though - the carb overfuels to deliver the right mixture in the cylinder, compensating for fuel dropping out of the mixture and not burning properly. I will concede the point that because the carb delivers more fuel it certainly can cool the air more. I guess you can tell which system I favor