SleeperZ

Charge your battery, remove the distributor, turn on the MS and turn the distributor. That will verify if your rpm signal is getting through.

Your hardware should be fine, a stock block and head can make those numbers with just a bit more boost. Just make sure your fuel mixture, ignition timing, and intake/head temperatures are all good and stable.

Sounds like a good plan.

I take it back. I hooked the scope up to the ignition last night, and every ignition dropout (quite visible on the scope) was accompanied with a sync loss. My dwell time is good, right on 3mS, and the discharge waveform looked to be about 2mS, so I changed that in the .MSQ (not that it affects the dropout). What I do see is a very fast edge on the discharge that spikes to 80-100V, so I pulled my condensor and will test it at work today. I suspect it's ok, so I think I will try to control the coil with the L28ET ignitor and try to get more of this ignition noise out of my MS3 box.

I agree. I would rewire both power and ground wires.

Ideally you would run the pressure where your injectors are rated to flow. Most are 300kPa, or about 43.5psi, some are 250kPa, or about 36 psi. Your pressure regulator should be referenced to your manifold pressure, so your pump needs to flow enough for all your injectors at rated pressure plus your boost pressure, so your pump need to flow 57 gallons/hour at about 60psi, assuming you have a 6 cylinder.

As someone who works in the industry, that is exactly right. Is your fuel pressure correct? If the return is blocked or the regulator is defective, your fuel pressure would be sky-high and cause the fuel pump current to get very high. Your pump will fail soon under those conditions.

Alright, here is a fairly recent .msq in a .zip. I have not changed anything but the firmware version and my trigger reference since I captured this. sleeper78z_10degreesoff.zip

Cost is a good point. I wanted to boost power on my stock L28ET, and I was on a tight budget. I got 370cc injectors, Z31 ECU, MAF and distributor wheel from a U-Pull-It yard and spliced the whole thing into the factory 280ZXT harness and my 280Z with L28ET. I modified the MAF element by installing it in a larger diameter housing, proportional to the increased flow of the fuel injectors, and it worked as well, better in some ways, than the original EFI. I was able to dyno 313hp to the wheels and drag raced it for two years that way. But it was a PITA. I had messed with the idle air circuit, and the engine would die if I closed the throttle too fast, it made staging inconvenient. Then I installed a turbo cam, and the fuel cut became annoying. It was worth it for the money, but now that I have MegaSquirt I do not miss the Z31 at all. It's so nice to be able to just have it work with whatever mods I decide to do. Bigger injectors, no problem. Vent the BOV to atmosphere, easy. Change turbos or cams, simple. It's a whole new dimension, and after the cost of all the compromises to accommodate the Z31 ECU, Megasquirt is only marginally more expensive and so much easier.

In the OP's defense, he does list a 1976 280Z in his signature.

All you have to do is turn your crank to TDC for number 1, and look at the cam gear notch in relation to the cam tower. It will be obvious if the notches do not line up. If you need to advance it, wedge the chain, remove the cam gear noting which number is pinned, rotate it to the next numbered hole and re-install it after rotating the cam slightly. Here is the proper tool for securing the chain: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic07/60-9921

I hear that's just a noisy pump, I don't know that adding another pump will reduce the noise that much, and it sounds like a PITA. Why not use a Bosch -044 pump? They are quiet and flow just as much. BTW, the wiring would probably support two pumps, but I rewired my fuel pump with AWG12 anyway, it was not difficult.

That looks exactly like my single lobe failure on my old Schneider turbo cam. I never did figure out what caused it, my oiling seems good, though the sump level was slightly low after the track day when it wiped.

When posting to the forums, I have options to upload files, but I cannot upload my Megasquirt configuration (.msq). What are the restrictions, do I need to zip it or something?

I thought I posted my tune file on MSExtra, but I don't see it anymore. http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=51553#p378559 I will probably repost on there, and make sure my current tune goes up too. I am now unsure whether I wired the cam signal in or not, I will look at that. I don't see the signal on the composite logger. My coil is wired to fire on rising edge, of course, as it is firing it directly. If I rewire to use the 280ZXT ignitor, I know I will need to change it to falling edge. I can also check the box for heat when I check to see if the cam signal is wired in. When I was checking the tooth logger, I never saw any dropouts. I also never saw any sync loss. Is there a log file I can run or check that would show if Megasquirt was deliberately dropping the ignition out? Edit: Tried to upload my .MSQ file, but I am not allowed? WTF?

Your compression doesn't sound that low, perhaps you have some wear in your timing chain. Check that timing and make sure your cam is not retarded, if it is, you may be able to advance it by removing the cam gear and putting it on the next highest setting.

I'm running MS3 on my L28ET with the turbo distributor, the DIY 12-1 wheel, and a single coil fired with the MS3 BIP373. I have been experiencing intermittent misfires at idle with no sync loss, and I've looked at the distributor trigger input to MS3 with an oscilloscope and it it quite clean. I went through the entire ignition system from the plugs back to the coil, checked gaps and tightened connections as much as I could. The cap and rotor look good, and they should since they are a new, same brand, bought at the same time. I verified I located the distributor properly so I will get a spark to the proper plug from just before TDC to 40 degrees BTC. Then I tried to verify the trigger position with MS, and found it was off. With the base offset at 345, it was about 10 degrees retarded, but when I would add that much to the offset, the trigger would jump to 20 degrees more advanced. The Megasquirt forums informed me my MS3 firmware was out of date, so I updated Tuner Studio and the MS3 to the latest, and now I have been able to get the trigger on solid. So this brings me to my latest issue that my ignition is now momentarily and seemingly randomly dropping out. I replaced my plug wires with a brand new set that fits the cap terminals and the plugs much better, but the problem remains. I have configured the coil driver to a 3.0mS maximum dwell and a 1.2mS maximum spark duration. Are those appropriate values for a standard coil? I am using a MSD Blaster 2, which has the same characteristics as a factory L28ET coil. What are folks using in their MS systems? My coil does not get hot, so I don't think I am overdriving it, but it seems as though the MS3 coil driver may be thermally shutting off as the cars stars from cold well and does not start missing for a few minutes. And it's not just like a random misfire, it's like the whole ignition turns off, loses a few sparks in a row, then catches itself before the engine dies. And this also started with the new firmware update. I am thinking I need to wire the factory ignitor and coil in, and just drive it with a low current output from the MS3. But what is the experience level at HybridZ with the single coil ignition?

Ha! Had a firmware version with a bug in it. Updated it and problem solved. I have one more day to pass emissions to keep my classic plates, it should be up to it now.

Cleaned up all my plug wires after pulling the plugs and found 5 and 6 were leaner than the rest. I checked the gaps and re-installed them. Some wires were slightly loose, and noticed with a timing light that when the engine misfires I get a missed pulse. I found my timing reference was different than what I expected too, and posted this on the MSExtra forums. http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=51553 Has anyone here experienced this weirdness? I can get within 8-10 degrees with my trigger input, then when dial it in closer, it jumps to more than 10 degrees to the other side. I used both the trigger wizard and the reference on the ignition settings, they both behave the same.

If I have the chance to do some tweeking with an exhaust analyzer, timing would be good to investigate. I read on a different post here that someone determined that 20 degrees was a good idle timing, which is the factory setting for the L28ET. I was running 18, but I will play with that a bit this weekend in my quest for a cleaner idle.

LD28 block is taller, front cover as well, of course. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50542-long-stroke-l28-using-ld28/

It seems obvious to me, but maybe it needs clarification, the Nissan sensor must be used if you sense at the cylinder head. I wouldn't think the GM sensor is shaped properly to sense at the head as is not immersed in coolant there.

Took it in to emissions test with 5 gallons of 91 octane and 1.5 gallons of E85, but it didn't pass. High CO (1.49%) and high HCs. I thought it might be a bit too lean, so I reduced the mixture at idle from 14.2 to 13.8 and retested and all that happened was a worse fail on the CO (1.94%). Because my idle is not as smooth as it should be, speed varies from 850 to 1000, and the mixture moves a bit as well, I am thinking I must be having some slight misfiring. It drives very smoothly, but that's all I can think of. If I can't get the idle figured out this weekend, I may have a track-only car. Unless I can take it in to an exhaust shop and have a catalytic converter installed with flanges and a test pipe, that would definitely nail it.

I am still tuning my MS3, but my highest timing is approximately 38-40 degrees from 3000 rpm up, and I set my initial timing to 18. At the moment I have considerable retard built into the higher manifold pressures, so my timing is currently set to 29 degrees at maximum boost midrange rpm, and drop to only about 15-17 degrees at maximum boost up to 6000+ rpm.

I'm still trying to get in for an emissions test. I've driven the car a lot in the last few days, and the tune is starting to come together. But I am wondering about my idle tuning, the mixture is not that solid although it may be good enough to pass. Setup is: MS3, no MS3X L28ET F54/P90 head DIY CAS wheel Hyundai TPS, reports 2% at idle 7MGTE 440cc low Z injectors, batch fired in banks 1-3 and 4-6 GM air and coolant sensors MSD Blaster 2 coil, driven with MS3 BIP373 I have it set in the AFC map to 14.0 - 14.2, and my timing is 18 degrees. I set my coil to 3.0mS maximum dwell and 1.2mS maximum spark duration. I set up my injectors for 0.7mS dead time, PWM current limit 35%, time threshold 1.0mS and PWM period 50uS. Required fuel is calculated to 7.0 and set. My mixture at idle is fluctuating between 13.9 and 15 or so. Injector pulse width is running between 1.6 and 1.7 mS, And the rpm varies between 850 and 1000, so everything is somewhat stable, but it seems like something is not quite dialed in. If anyone is running a similar configuration, let me know how it runs and how its different from mine.