SleeperZ

You should not need to run more boost to get 300whp. I dynoed 313whp with 15-16 psi on a stock L28ET. If you are intercooled, you should be able to adjust mixture and spark advance to get close to that 300whp goal.

Definitely check the wiring for the TPS. The 240SX will work, I did not realize you retained that TPS with the throttle body. You will benefit greatly if you can use a multimeter to measure the TPS. With the TPS connector off, make sure the throttle shaft is partly open, then measure resistance from each pin to the rest. The pins that give the largest resistance measurement will be your +5 and ground pins, and I would think you have a black wire from the original connector to verify which is which. The remaining pin is the TPS input to the Megasquirt, from the wiring diagram I believe the blue is the TPS input and the grey is the 5V. Once you have power to it, you can measure the voltage on the TPS input and see if it increases from low to high as you increase throttle. The instruction for the 1K pullup is correct. I am not at all sure about how you are going to implement the ignition. Megasquirt 1 controls fuel only, as far as I know. You need a spark output that will control the advance and I don't see anything in your parts list that will do that. Either go to MS2 which has spark advance control and will use the turbo distributor, or go back to a NA distributor and shaft, and use the ignition module and factory coil and ballast resistor. There are a number of other options, but I have always used the ECU and turbo distributor and do not know anything about MSD boxes and NA distributors.

Sorry, that's sort of what I meant when I said "reservoir", I meant balance tube. Sounds like you need just enough volume to make the reading constant without affecting it's time response. I've said way too much, sorry for muddying the thread.

Wow. He asked me for $150 and I paid it. My first project is fixing some steel railing on my porch.

Did some driving around last night, and it feels like I've upgraded to people-based relationships from my old "donkey" of a Z31 ECU. My base maps I got from ZManCO are serving me well, Tunerstudio is making minor (less than 10%) changes to my VE tables, and it drives so nice without any idle control or acceleration enrichment programmed. I have to tighten up my BOV as I can only manage 4-5 psi boost with the controller off, and I am going to do a little more work on getting the idle perfect (timing, mixtures). I also snagged a charcoal canister for the tank evaporative system from the parts yard so I can pass the visual part of emissions testing. Wish me luck, going to try emissions testing Wednesday. It's running nicely, just keeping my fingers crossed.

Is the distributor tight? Maybe it has a worn out bushing, and you lose the signal at that rpm...

I have always thought about learning to weld, and a friend of mine is clearing out his garage, and I picked this up. It's a mig, correct? It came with the argon bottle, regulator, spare wire and tips, plus the cart. Personally I think he gave me a great deal, he said it works great, and it was upgraded from 90A to 120A. Any speculation on what it's worth?

I'd like to offer a suggestion on the fuel pump control. Get a Z31 wiring diagram and study how the fuel pump is wired. I used my old 280Z fuel pump relay, and rewired it so the Z31 ECU controls it. That way it primes while cranking and shuts off if the engine dies. It's safer that way. It's quite simple, and you can use the same wiring if you replace the Z31 ECU with a MegaSquirt.

Can't find a face-palm animation, this will have to do:

The large reservoir can hurt or help I suppose. But it seems like it can help smooth the vacuum better than the constant pulsing of the six venturis. If you are on the brake with the engine dropping the vacuum further, does it matter? Doesn't the booster get overwhelmed at that point? Probably the best implementation is a separate reservoir drawn from a different tap on the common source, but I'm just pressing keys behind a screen on the interwebz, I know nothing about ITBs, and I'm sure it shows.

I still like the 3.54 and T5 for street and strip. A road racing track is a different story, and depends on a lot more factors. A 3.36 / T5 would be great for very high speeds or optimizing fuel mileage at highway speeds. It's a highly desirable ratio, but I don't think it would work for me. I have a 2.88 in my Mercedes 240D.

That should take care of it.

That's pretty funny. I ran a Z31 ECU on a stock L28ET for years, but with a modified fuel system. It raced fine, but absolutely sucked for drivabililty. If you revved the engine from idle then released the throttle, it would not recover to idle but just die. Nothing else was a big problem, but it wasn't great, just good. I am hoping I can tune my MS3 this week. Then I will be able to be as certain as others about the comparison betwixt donkeys and people.

It's so cute!

If your MS goes away while cranking, you probably have your grounding wrong. To minimize the voltage drop while cranking, I connected my power grounds to the end of the negative battery cable where it bolts to the starter. You can't just hook your distributor in the tach input like a hall sensor or VR. Check the DIY site, they have a schematic for wiring the optical distributor. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_diyautotune_nissan_trigger_discs.htm Pin 24 will need a 1K pullup resistor to 12V to operate. Make sure to use shielded wire and connect the shield on one end only, at the MS connector ground (pin 2). You haven't said what TPS you are using. Don't hook up pin 26 to the distributor. The dizzy needs 12V to the red wire (pin 28), the 1k pullup to the white wire and the black wire to ground. I can't help with MSD, I am driving my coil directly with a high current driver. I though MS 1 only does fuel, not ignition. Everything else looks good.

You mean 240D, right? I have a 300D turbodiesel in my 240D, and it has such an exhaust link. I did not know the 240Ds had that flexible section too - I'm sure the turbo diesel part is different from the naturally aspirated 240D though.

I do not understand the concern. Obviously you have to be on the manifold size of the booster valve, but the booster is an excellent vacuum reference

A properly tuned and functioning L28 can be tuned to pass Federal emissions standards anywhere (for the model year). If you are in California, then you have to have a California model with the California emissions equipment. I am under the gun in Colorado; I have to test and pass by the end of September to keep my classic plate registration. I have not had to meet emissions for 10 years, but now I have to again. We shall see how well Megasquirt does.

The timing marks should be physical grooves, and can be repainted once you find them.

I accept that I may be wrong, but all the aluminum wheels I've ever seen for acorn type lugs have a steel insert to take the pressure of the cone. I would not trust an aluminum seating surface for lug pressures.

This is going to be unreal, thanks for updates.

That's a really nice ignition setup. The ignition switch output needs to power the main relay to switch on power to the MS as well as the fuel pump, ignition coils and injectors.

That is completely dependent on your setup, which turbo, which intercooler, which engine, which head, too many things. That is something you need to find out yourself by reviewing others' setups and testing your own.

You can use the original intake manifold. I use an N42.

Yes. It's a steep learning curve, but it is as very good and cost-effective solution. Reading and research is free, just be patient. Yes, you need an O2 sensor, and probably a number of other sensors too. There are a variety of ways to set up the tach input to Megasquirt, but the good thing about the turbo distributor is it can handle any amount of advance you will need with a turbo setup, and the internal wheel is easy to swap.