SleeperZ

They look like holes for mag lugs. If I recall correctly aluminum wheels need an angled steel seat if they use acorn lugs. Just like a valve in a cylinder head.

I ran a fuse for the ignition (single coil) and a fuse for each injector bank (batch firing 6 lowZ 440cc Supra injectors).

Good news! It's been a year, and because Colorado changed the laws regarding '76 - '81 cars, I have to get emissions tested to keep my classic car license plate, and it expires at the end of September. It sucks, but it is a kick in the rear for me to get this thing running. I swapped the head back to factory, retimed everything, had my injectors cleaned and flow tested, and I actually got this beast to idle at 14:1 mixture and 950 rpm with no sync loss. I checked the timing signal with an oscilloscope and it is actually fairly clean considering I am using the internal ignitor (BIP373) to drive my MSD coil. Just a little bit of high frequency noise at the high pulses of the DIY 12:1 distributor wheel. I still need to get it driving (my clutch master cylinder failed from lack of use) so I can tune it to drive and get it to emissions testing, but I think the big battle is won.

That is a very interesting suggestion. I originally planned it out to use an external ignitor, I have the stock L28ET coil and ignitor. Then when I built my MS3 box, I just decided to go with the internal high current driver even though there is no control over the ground current. But if I need to, it should be simple enough to rewire the ignition circuit to keep the ground return current from the coil out of the MS3 box.

I have definitely shielded my RPM wheel sensor cable and separated my bundles so the coil driver and injector drivers are not in proximity. I am not using idle PWM as I am just using a Nissan electric idle bypass, it closes after it warms up with straight 12V. I have also tried to take the high current ground side of the connector and use that only for chassis and the drivers, and use the other side of the ground section for sensors only. It should be as noise free as possible externally. I have an oscilloscope now, so I will be probing this stuff tonight.

Hehehe, my first set of Z wheels I bought were that exact design, 15x7, zero offset. I still have them; fitted with 225/50/15, they look mean with the low sidewall extending a bit outside the wheel wells. Edit: I looked at them in my garage last night, mine were made by Western Wheel. Just cheap knockoffs I got at a tire shop.

Thanks, I will look into that. I fired it up last night, and it's almost perfect with an occasional sync loss, but it is correcting and maintaining 13.5:1 at idle so I am almost there. I am thinking I can get access to an oscilloscope and look at the DIY wheel signal to verify noise.

Can you post some more detail on this? I am trying desperately to get my Z running this week so I can have a chance to pass an emissions test to keep my classic plates, and this is an issue I am experiencing. MS3, 440cc lowZ injectors, single coil, DIY trigger wheel.

I don't think so. I've bought and sold many parts here over the years, and the donation never held me back. This site deserves support, it has the most accurate and detailed information about Zs anywhere.

Bulky pig, lol!

You will have to change your fuel management if you run those injectors.

I'm thinking Wankel rotary

Nice job making a 280 look like a 240!

Removed and replaced the cylinder head on my L28ET with my spare head with factory camshaft. I need to get my MS3 up and running to pass Colorado emissions so I can renew my classic plates before the expiration at the end of September. The law recently changed that only allows me to keep my collector plates if I pass an emissions test - I have been exempt for 10 years now. It's a perfect storm. I changed too much too fast in my configuration, going to an unknown hot cam and MS3 at the same time. My car hasn't even run in over a year, now I have to get it going AND pass emissions in 6 weeks. I really want to keep my cheap classic plates, and it sucks I have to pass a sniff test where I did not before.

I was going to say most of that money is the carbs and manifold. I wouldn't place much value on the engine, especially if it was run for a while without any air filters, and it's far easier to botch a "port and polish" than to do a good job, so the head is perhaps not worth much either.

Got the new Earls bleeders. You are correct, my Russels leak air when loosened. Going slow with the rest of the rebuild as it's getting colder and putting the springs back in the cylinders is tricky; I had to modify a set of needle nose pliers to grip the spring clips. I am using a C clamp to compress it place, and there is not much wiggle room to install the clip.

Resurrecting an old question. I have similar observations with my Maxima rear calipers currently being rebuilt. The guide pins seem to be somewhat sloppy, so I bought some new ones, and they have a similar amount of slop. I do have enough parts lying around I can swap in, and some pins fit more snugly than others... The original question still stands.... Perhaps it's not the guide pins wearing, but the bracket bushings.

Love the vinyl picture, funny how it's so realistic your neighbor cannot even hear how it's just a picture. Loved your videos too, have a great winter.

Drool!

I finally got these broken loose. More heat directly on the bleeder, found a deep well 10mm socket in my tool box, pounded it on the deformed hex and used the 18" breaker. I was expecting to twist them off, but they both threaded out. On to rebuilding.

Everything else is in good shape. I have these babies stripped down. I doubt an EZ out would extract this if vise grips on the old body will not. I've had plenty of EZ outs break off though. Has anyone drilled out bleeders before, without destroying the seat?

That would be a deal, I was rebuilding these because remans from Rock Auto run about $90 each.

I got a set of rear calipers from an '86 Maxima (scrapyard) to rebuild for my rear disc conversion. I've got them cleaned and disasembled, with all the rebuild parts now ordered and in route, but I can't get the old bleeder nipples out of the calipers. I've been at it for 3 days now. I soaked them in biodiesel, and PB Blaster, alternating with heat from a propane torch. I haven't actually broken them off yet, but they seem like part of the caliper. What's next? Patience, more PB and heat? Drill them out, hopefully the seats are ok, and rethread? Toss the damn things and start over?

Sounds like a great turbo motor, but you might have to mod the head for fuel injection.

I got 82.7mph Just kidding. That calculates to 169 - scary fast.