SleeperZ

What a great idea! I agree with the tasks and priorities, but I would like to see VE normalization get a higher priority. I'd help, but I know absolutely nothing about exactly how you program this stuff.

Like I stated before, you need to research how these engines work. A turbo alone will not change the performance, because the ECU measures the air flow and fuels the engine appropriately, within the limits of the factory parts. The "upgraded" turbo by itself will not affect the wastegate setting or intake air temperature (significantly), so there will not be any significant performance differences from stock. Those differences will only become apparent when you increase the boost level, or add an intercooler.

I agree. My VW anecdote is an extreme example where VW actually says the initial fluid fill in the automatic is a lifetime fill, meaning no maintenance is "required". Because it's a POS and doesn't last, so don't eff it up by changing the fluid. I had it flushed at 80k with no issues, but I doubt I will do it again. I'd rather it fail on me, then I can install a manual instead because I find I hate automatics more than ever now.

I agree with the rationale for using the RX-7 brakes; the ability to use a vented rotor with minimal unsprung weight seems advantageous. The popular Toyota option seems inappropriate in several ways, one in that it is a much heavier caliper and two that it provides so much more clamping it is difficult to find an appropriately balanced rear disc option. That is the reason I am currently using the S130 front calipers with Z31 rotors, and plan to install the S130 master and Maxima rear calipers (with S130 rotors). I figure that will be easier to balance front to rear without radical differences in pad materials.

I agree with most of what you wrote, but I don't understand your claim of "hardly any weight transfer." When braking, weight transfers forward, whether in a turn or not.

I've been warned similarly with my VW automatic. But it's a notoriously fragile unit that reputedly only lasts 150k miles, and I am 200 miles away from that mark... I suspect flushing is likely to make it fail by dislodging any settled crap post the filter. Isn't the fluid flow reversed in a flush process?

If you want to get it running again, just put on the turbo, but there could be a bit of fabrication to make the t3/t4 fit. That alone is not an upgrade, but it will make your car drivable. If you want to improve the performance of the turbo engine, do some research. This site is an amazing resource, so decide what performance level you want, then figure out how to meet those goals within your technical capabilities and your budget. Good luck, it's a lot of fun.

It's metric, power in kW, torque in Nm.

Like it was yesterday. HILARIOUS!

A stock head and cam will struggle with that A/R. It will spool later in the rpm band and the stock head will top out after 5500 or so. But if you intend to do head work, that turbo may work for you.

It makes sense because weight and hp equals kinetic energy which must be dissipated in the brakes. The more power you have, the more speed you must drop to make the turn (or stop).

Once I lick my Megasquirt problem and get my rear discs on, coilovers are looking real good to me. I've got track fever for next year.

Sounds good, I sense an opportunity for you.

Wow, R200 is strong. Your post title made me think you had flipped all four rubber sides up, I'm glad that was not it.

Pretty sure stock rods in the L series are reliable at 400hp. Close inspection, balancing and de-stressing are good insurance however.

That's a pretty small tire. The 205 60 15 is the appropriate diameter (+1) and rides on the street much better.

Wonder how they managed to fit 17" tires ??

Wow, that is gorgeous.

I'm looking forward to more pictures. I LOVE that blue!

You have to be a donating member to list items for sale. GLWS, it's a nice car.

For autocross you should be good with good carbon-fiber pads on your stock calipers. What are you looking to gain from an "upgrade"?

I have that same bar, I really like it.

I can't seem to find any pictures right now, but since I am using MS, a lot of the accessories that clutter the intake are gone. I still have the brake booster line, manifold pressure taps for the fuel pressure regulator, the MAP sensor, the BOV, and the cold start throttle bypass. And I still have the PCV valve on the bottom and the valve cover still vents into the intake, pre-turbo.

I have a bolt-on Weber 60mm throttle body on my N42 intake. It uses all the stock linkage. Took a bit of grinding on the inlet of the manifold to match the inlet size but I've using it for years now, it works great.

I don't think there is anything atypical about the newer block that would keep you from building it up like any other L6. If you want 200+ N/A horsepower, you will need to focus on the head, I see no issues with using the turbo bottom end. Just use the appropriate head for the carburation and headers you want, or pick your head and figure out the best way to match the cannon intake and headers....wide open.