SleeperZ

Considering that you keep breaking these beefy CV axles, take it as a compliment some are suggesting your IRS swap mounting may need more strength.

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Congratulations! Nice job, sounds great!

That sort of rail is a piece of cake to install. All you need to consider is where to mount your pressure regulator, as that must be relocated.

That Benz 617 engine is very heavy, and not a good candidate if you want to increase power beyond 150hp. Don't get me wrong, I installed a 617.952 (turbo 5 cyl) in my 240D and it's a great engine for what it is, but the car is definitely not a Z.

I daily drive a VW TDI. If you have the patience, and get good gearing, that would be a really nice swap. A tuned ECU and higher flow injectors could really wake that car up, plenty of room under the hood, and lots of technical support on TDIClub.com. What's not to like about 40+ mpg and potential to run 100% renewable fuel? I get 45mpg with an automatic on 100% biodiesel.

Wow. That's expensive. I found Corky Bell's book very accessible and has good guidelines for turbo builds without getting too bogged down with details that generally concern only the most hardcore racers.

I went through the same thing with mine, and let me tell you MS is NOT plug and play. I am still trying to figure out why my tach input periodically flips out and causes a sync loss. My latest idea is the distributor ground, missing, will cause static build up and periodic discharge that interrupts the signal. Double check what you have, with a factory ECU it's bound to be something simple you missed.

Technically, they don't suck, they blow.

1. Stock turbo pump is ok for 290cc stock injectors. I used a Bosch pump with my 370cc injectors, but I modified my MAF with a 30% larger ID. 2. Yes. 3. Yes, fuel pump, distributor, ignition and some sensors may need connector/wiring modifications.

You sound like you are hard on your driveline. I have a stock rear end, halfshafts, stubs, BW T5 manual, everything, and I ran countless 13 second passes (and some in the high 12s) with drag radials and never broke anything. Perhaps the wheel hop is what's killing yours.

Yeah, that makes no sense the ring gear is opposite, as the rotation would then be opposite as well.

Nice. It looks like the car was designed around right-hand drive, on the US versions the right side of the engine compartment is just too bare. Looks like a sweet project!

Not boggy at all. The taller gears present load to the engine, so if your turbo is moderately responsive, you get better response with taller gears. There is a reason the turbo ZX got a 3.54 and the N/A ZX got the 3.90.

Correct...amundo

Yes, you can be off by an 1/8" or so before it's a problem. And you need a return line if you want to regulate the pressure.

With a stock L28ET and my T5, 3.90 made 1st gear almost useless, and I had to shift into 5th to make to the end of the 1/4 mile. I like a 3.54 much better.

I've used teflon tape with some success, but after recent trouble I used a Permatex thread sealant and that worked better than anything else I've tried. One good piece of advice I got was make sure the threads are clean, and do not over-tighten them.

I've been able to seal these by sanding the washers smooth with emery cloth or very fine grit sand paper. Also do this for the brass fitting. You don't want to over-tighten it, just tight enough to form the washer.

Just curious, I've read a lot about the rear 240Z strut isolator/insulator being shorter than the 280Z counterpart. Is the front 240Z strut insulator shorter than the 280Z front as well?

I understand I made a generalized statement based on a different engine, that's why I'm curious to see the graphs. I don't detonate or lug my 22RE, if I need to accelerate more quickly I gear down; otherwise just cruising I can be in 4th at 30mph and 5th at 45mph (4.10 diff, 235/75/15 tires). If it was detonating I imagine that would probably result in poorer mileage, rather I am operating it nearer to it's torque limit at that RPM, and that equates to higher thermal efficiency on the BSFC chart.

Can you specify which manual you found this in? I'd like to look at that, as fuel consumption in general favors lower rpm operation as the applied torque is a greater percentage of available torque, lowering the BSFC. I've been driving my Toyota truck with a 22RE below 2000 rpm and am constantly rewarded with 30+ mpg on a tank by tank basis.

The last engine I built was back in 1992.

NGK BPR7ES11, brand new Beck-Arnley cap and rotor, brand new set Running some custom 8mm Accel wires, never had trouble with them before, clean and flexible Current have a MDS Blaster 2 coil wired, same inductance and resistance as the stock ZX coil, driving it with the MS coil driver I wired the grounds to the same spot as the battery negative on the block, of course all sensor grounds are wired to MS. Here's another straw to grasp -- I do not have the distributor wired to the body any more. There is no electrical connection from the optical pickup to ground, but there may be a charge buildup issue on the dizzy, and that's why the factory had that ground wire from the distributor to the left fender.

I used shielded wire grounded at MS. I wired the 1k ohm pullup resistor to 12V at the distributor connector, just the missing tooth part, left the cam position output open. When I was first troubleshooting this issue, I found a bad ground wire in the factory wiring at the optical sensor, so I replaced just that section of harness with some twisted wires and spade terminals. I will wire a new harness right up to that now, and run it straight back to the MS. I don't know how much better it will be, I hope I don't have a bad optical module, those are crazy expensive.