SleeperZ

Nice, that's one fast car.

I am in awe, that looks so nice!

BTW Z-ya, the head is resurfaced, nothing more, just a rebuild factory head with Schneider springs and a Felpro gasket. To put a cherry on this project, I looked at the cam specs I previously measured with the degree wheel and dial indicator, and finally giving it some thought, I verified my TDC pointer with a piston stop and hooked up the dial indicator. I referenced the old Schneider cam that has the intake opening at 0.050" at 8 degrees BTDC, then measured the current cam, and it was so advanced it had the 0.050" lift close to 30 degrees BTDC. I retarded it by two cam gear teeth (gotta get the adjustable cam gear....) and advanced the gear from 2 to 3. Rechecked the 0.050" intake event, and it's dead on 2 degrees BTDC, so it's close to the Schneider, and with its slightly shorter duration, I've windowed the new cam's duration within the old cam. I checked the index at TDC, and the cam is retarded by a bit more than the notch width from the factory reference. Oh well, the cam was definitely ground off the factory index. But I started the engine, and what do you know? Even cold it fired right up and idled. Now on to the MegaSquirt tuning....

The .96 AR on the hot side is not going to work well on the L28. You need a 0.63 for a mild L28ET, maybe go up to a 0.82 on a high rpm L28 turbo, but you may want a higher flowing compressor than the 50 trim at that point.

It's a good suggestion. Check all the vital connections to the ECU and AFM, clean them with electrical contact cleaner.

Factory engine? Turbo engine? Modifications? Sounds like you may have a plugged tank vent or carbon canister.

I'm saying the impeller is the larger one, and the casting is the LD28. Look at the impeller clearance to the casting, especially the short center section, the L28 has significant clearance where the diesel unit has minimal clearance. No doubt in my mind.

Only the shaft is larger, look at how the impeller OD fills the casting.

The impeller and housing are most definitely the LD28. Got mine on order.

If you've got the pressure at the rail, the only thing that would restrict the flow are the injectors.

If anyone can get a 2JZ out of the 11s, it will be you.

You can use L28ET injectors. Coil packs are not necessary if you can get a L28ET distributor and use the MS wheel from DIYAutotune. Single coil will work with a distributor. Add an oil cooler like the L28ET, or get an aftermarket kit, and factory oil pan.

Only other thing that comes to mind is the pressure regulator, but 50psi at boost is appropriate (for 8 psi boost). I can't see an untouched AFM causing it either. But the ECU has got to be getting an inaccurate air measurement, or it would fuel properly with that fuel pressure.

If your AFM checks out using the service manual specified tests, that doesn't mean it couldn't be out of adjustment. Perhaps the springs are too tight, that could give the symptoms you describe.

Holy turbo surge! Sounds good though.

JB Weld will eventually fail on parts that heat cycle. My first L28 engine had a chunk of the lower skirt glued in with JB Weld, unknown to me when I bought it. I drove it for 9 months including a trip to California, and then it started seeping oil out of the repaired area.

Yeah, I have tweeked the MegaSquirt so that my ignition timing is dead on, and although it is still running very rich, I am sure it's not the reason for the poor vacuum and idle. And I have a stock bottom end with dished pistons. I think I was brain dead when I initially timed the cam. I am certain the camshaft is ground retarded relative to TDC. It did not come with a cam card, but when I had my degree wheel attached with TDC set with the piston stop, I made my own cam card for it. I measured and documented the intake and exhaust lobes for opening, closing and duration, but did not pay much attention to the absolute timing. Here is my finding from looking back at what I measured: the lobe spacing and intake/exhaust durations are similar to my Schneider stage II, the exhaust duration at 0.05" is virtually identical, the intake duration at 0.05" is 220, 20 degrees less, but the intake doesn't open until 24 degrees AFTER TDC, where the Schneider intake at 0.05" is 8 degrees BEFORE TDC. It appears I need to advance the cam by at least 3 teeth !!! Yes, the cam is ground ok and should work, but relative to the index, it's way off.

So I now have attempted to operate this cam with my new MegaSquirt install. I'm glad I cam back to re-read this thread, as this "mystery" cam is acting retarded. After timing the thing nuts on the number 2 cam gear position, it won't idle as there is no vacuum. I advanced it a single tooth, and it was a little better but still crap. Before I give up on it completely, I may have some luck advancing it more than 1 tooth, say 2 or 3, so here goes.

My crank bolt is enormous, takes a 35mm socket. I couldn't seem to find a stock one when I needed it, but yours is the same suggestion Jeff Winter had when I mentioned my struggles at the track Saturday. BTW, Zmanco helped out a lot, and it seems as though the MS-3 is working great, but the engine is just not acting right. It had no vacuum, and would not idle as a result. I checked ignition timing, dead on and stable. I checked cam timing, dead on in stock cam gear position #2, just as the grinder recommends. I did end up advancing the cam one cam gear tooth, and it improved slightly, almost idles, about 2" Hg vacuum where my old Schneider grind would idle at 10". I am going to go over the two cam cards and see if I missed something, maybe advance the cam one more tooth just for "fun", and if I can't get anywhere I guess I'll go back to a factory stock cam that is known to be good. Gotta get this thing rolling !!

Pulled the front of the engine apart. Getting the damper off was tough, had to use my puller attached to my electric impact, with a hardened washer to protect the crank threads. I was afraid it would strip the puller threads. Now the cam is timed right, I have to still re-assemble this thing tonight. The front cover gasket is still in one piece although some of the oil pan gasket separated with the cover. Hopefully that will seal; the form-a-gasket will not fill very well, and silicone could break off and plug the oil pickup.

Should work well. But wow, those Nissan engines (RB, L, SR) with the turbos and downpipes so close to the master cylinder certainly makes one think about 1JZ, 2JZ a bit more....

I might give it a try. I can't remember what that thing looks like, whether there is a spring that could get crunched if I can pull that tensioner back....

I was planning to tow it out, it's just too far to rely on the Z to hold together, not that I anticipate a breakdown. I appreciate the offer of a front cover gasket, I might need it, hopefully not. I have used that very gasket compound for years, it works really well. I used it on my front cover years ago, and it's still dry. If the gasket holds together on removal, I'll just goo it up again. The only thing I dread is re-installing the damper, that thing is a PITA. I had the advantage of first installing it this past February when the garage was 20F and the damper was 150F. I will look into that delay table. I put my O2 sensor way downstream, it's actually mounted in the tranny tunnel past the end of my downpipe, near the shifter. I routed the cable up through the shifter hole. Hopefully I'll see you Saturday.

So now I've really stepped in it. I checked the cam timing and it was retarded by the width of the cam tower notch on cam gear position 2. I put in the wedge and advanced the chain one gear tooth, and my wedge wasn't secure enough and it popped out. So now my tensioner is mislocated. Never did this before, first time for everything. Looks like I get to remove my radiator, alternator, damper, and front cover to put this thing back together. Bright side, I'll know it's all lined up, and hopefully I can still get it all together so I can drag it to the track for tuning. No time to street tune it before Saturday I'm sure, but at least you folks will be there to help me out. Yes?....

Well, halfway there. I found TDC, and it is off a bit. My cam timing should still be good because I set that with the degree wheel and a piston stop, but I need to check that again. But when I set the crank at TDC, the distributor tang was straight up and down. I moved it back a tooth, and now the rotor is where it should be, just past number one spark terminal. I don't have any more time tonight to fire it up and get the logs so I can the MS referenced, and get the VE tables right.