SleeperZ

Truly a marvelous version of the S30. Looks and sounds great. I'd love to hear and see it under acceleration, that L28 growl is pure joy.

I am not following you. If you wired to the MS1 V3 diagram you should have battery voltage at your pump when the relay is on. The coil positive is connected to a different circuit, but should also have battery voltage. If you have 12V at your battery, that same voltage should be at your pump and coil. Now if you measure 5.6V at the pump when it runs, the pump is drawing too much current for the wiring or you have a bad relay. I am confused when you say the pump only runs with the coil connected. Where is the coil negative wired? I assume you have an electronic ignition unit, but maybe you are dropping battery voltage with a ballast resistor and a points type ignition? You are not saying you have a 5.6V battery? More information is needed.

Sounds like a wiring error. If you have 12V to the + of the coil, and it drops to 5.6 with the pump on, you have undersized the wires to the coil and the pump or you have a bad relay powering it. I am hoping you DO have this circuit switched by a relay. I do not think your pump should run just because you have 12V to the hot lead, ideally the pump is on a separate relay controlled by the computer, so it can prime the system with ignition on, and only run the pump continuously if you have the engine running.

The resistance measurements you listed look acceptable.

That would be AMAZING.

The coil does not conduct through the case. You should have 3 connections, the (+) and (-) and the high voltage tower. As long as those are connected, the coil should work.

One of the many qualities I love about the Z.

I wonder if that video is still around. I followed that "Ferrari" thread and several others and it looks like Youtube pulled it, maybe because it's a few years old now. Hilarious story and denials about the car being a genuine Ferrari...

Sounds great!

Wow, glad you made it through ok, shame about that gorgeous car. I'm happy to hear you plan to repair it.

That's unreal. Really nice!

Piping volume will not make a significant different to "lag" perception. Unless you are drag racing with the air/water, the extra plumbing needed is usually not worth the trouble or expense. How do you intend to drive, and what are your power goals?

What about the shallow steering angle of the Z? Modding the front suspension for greater angles is probably the biggest challenge.

I was confused. You were talking about changing required fuel, and I thought you had already leaned the map. Yes, 7 is approximately the correct required fuel, and you are now doing the right thing by modifying the map. You should be able to see actual pulse width on your laptop while idling, and I expect you are less than 2mS if you are now idling ok.

You have 440cc injectors running a 4mS pulsewidth at idle? I'm running a stock cam (which certainly pulls more vacuum) but with the same size injector I am running 1.7mS at idle. No wonder it's so rich. I know you can't run that low of a pulsewidth with the cam, but it seems like you have a lot of room yet to reduce fuel. 30 degrees also sounds like too much timing for idle. My old turbo cam, similar to what you describe, timed just like the stock one. 20 degrees of ignition timing was perfect.

Wow, what a deal. I would hope for that price you'd at least get the flat-plane crank...

They will flow unevenly, so the fuel will not atomize as well, and the result is more fuel is needed for the same power level.

I used to get 27-29 highway mpg, driving in Colorado about 70-75mph. I was running a stock turbo engine with the Z31 ECU, 205/60/15 tires, and no aero mods except an air dam. T5 transmission, 3.54 rear gears.

I have not tried a cap on H1 boot. Are you suggesting that somehow noise (presumably from the ignition or injector drivers) would be rebooting the MS3? I can't see in the schematic how that cap would hurt anything, maybe I will try that when I get my cabinets out of the garage. Since I still have the oscilloscope, I may just do some probing in the MS3 while the car is idling, that could give some insight into this issue.

My garage has been filled with kitchen cabinets for almost a month now, so nothing has happened with the car. Kitchen remodeling is a PITA even if you hire a contractor to do it.... I do not want to get fancy with the ignition circuits here, I am already running the crank signal (distributor, DIY wheel) through the opto interface in the MS3 and it is shielded. But the coil current is being sunk by the MS3 and returning into the ground point at the starter. I do not like that configuration and think it may be upsetting the sync, so I am about to modify the BIP373 circuit with an internal current-limiting pullup and connect it to the ignitor base (NPN bipolar) at the factory L28ET ignition coil. That way I can limit the current to about 100mA, filter it better and keep the ignition current out of the MS3. I appreciate the feedback, and if anyone has already done this I am interested in reviewing that work. If/when I fire up the car with the original configuration, I will log it.

You can remove it with no issues.

Yes, I was successful uploading the zip, just an extra step, not that big of a deal.

If a coil goes bad, it either shorts internally and the resistance drops, or it opens up completely and the resistance is unmeasurable. I am sure your coil is NOT defective.

I will say it again, and I am in Denver, same altitude. I don't blink an eye at those numbers, and I dynoed 313rwhp with a L28ET with the same compression numbers, between 105psi and 110psi. It runs well without burning a lot of oil, don't "fix" it.

I bet your coil is good. 1.1-1.2 is what you would see out of any normal multimeter measuring 0.6 ohms because of lead resistance. Calibrate your leads to 0, then subtract the result. I bet you are seeing 0.5 ohms lead resistance.