SleeperZ

I apologize. Nothing wrong with a bit of bragging, and I appreciate the chill discussion. Just rubbed me the wrong way.

Other enthusiast site members may make excuses for why they don't "run 8s no problem", but only on HybridZ do I see people that put up with your attitude and maintain civility. That's the difference between this site and the Supra forums for example. Fine, you are awesome at drag racing, yes it's not easy but why the unnecessary attitude? I'm glad I don't drag race anymore.

No way. I've run 15x7 with many 225/50/15 tires, and I am currently running 15x7 with 225/45/15 tires. You can put those 225s on wheels as narrow as 6".

Everyone's got to know where to draw the line between repair and recycle. These poor cars rust horribly, sometimes they cannot be saved without unreasonable effort.

The 260Z is a unibody construction. It's not a swap you are proposing, it's a ground-up fabrication.

I think it was 3/8" NPT

Keep the original temperature gauge sensor. It is separate from the CLT for the MS stuff.

Highly doubt it. I re-tapped my thermostat housing to the GM thread, which is good old regular pipe threads unlike the strange factory tapered thread.

Wow, sucks about that header, it's pretty low that someone would try to pass that off as new.

A whole forum just for RB swaps: http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/31-nissan-rb-forum/

I would be cautious about both of those cars. They are asking quite a bit, but either one could be hiding major rust issues. If the rust is minimal, the asking prices are reasonable, so thoroughly check underneath on the frame rails and the floors beneath the carpeting. When I bought my 1978 back in 1990, it was the only one I found with solid rails even though it had rust showing like the 1976 you posted. All the others I looked at actually looked like they had good fenders and rockers, but were crumbling underneath. And I'm in Colorado too.

Pretty sure you don't want to rely on the shock to limit suspension travel. Eibach springs just rattle around at full droop.

It's not as hard as you think, at least to make a good estimate. Figure out how much airflow you need based on your displacement and power goal. Use that flow and pressure ratio against the compressor map and make sure you stay within the higher efficiency areas at your power peak and midrange. You didn't say what engine you are using, but there are only a few options for turbines, so you can choose one that supports how your engine produces power. A stock L28 does well with 0.63 T3.

In my experience diesel fuel is not a particularly good solvent, and it has poor lubricating properties as well. Unless the oil is obviously not in good condition, I wouldn't bother putting anything else in the crankcase. If you thought there was the potential for oil sludge in the crankcase, biodiesel would be an excellent solvent, far better than diesel, but you do not want any left in it when you fire up the engine. Biodiesel lubricity is far better than diesel, but it has very poor film strength and dilutes motor oil so you would not want to leave any significant amount behind.

That's how my '78 sits. I like how that white Z sits, I just expect I won't get there without coilovers.

Sounds like he did that, and it's smooth. I'm not sure why the oil would not still be good if it never ran after the rebuild. I'd keep it unless there is evidence that water got into the engine. Just grease the cam lobes, make sure the oil pump is primed, and fire it up once you have ensured you have a clean fuel system.

Those symptoms exactly match what my '78 did when I bought it, back in 1990. Turned out that the PO had installed the wrong injectors, too small. When I replaced them with a new set, it ran like it should have. You need to get hooked up with some good tools to diagnose your potential lean condition. An exhaust analyzer and fuel pressure gauge will help you figure out where the issue is. Maybe you have a sticky injector, I doubt your fuel pressure is at fault, but you need a gauge to rule it out.

Make sure your ignition system is working well. Check your plug gap, ignition wires and connections, and verify the ignition timing is right. All you are doing when you plug the FPR return is boosting the fuel pressure beyond the setpoint of the regulator and making your engine run rich. Either you have too little ignition advance or possibly a plugged air filter. Or the air flow meter is not properly reporting the air flow. Does the engine ping when it's hesitating?

With MS any injector is hard wired to +12, and to fire them MS grounds the other side. But the key to low impedance injectors is to apply full voltage to them until they open, about 1mS, then it turn the voltage off and on rapidly to hold them open for the rest of the injection event. If they are held on solid they will draw too much current and get hot. That current can also stress the injector drivers in the MS box. You can operate low impedance injectors with dropping resistors instead of the "peak and hold", but the turn on is not as crisp and you may have a harder time tuning at light loads like idling and low rpm cruising. By adding dropping resistors you can use the low impedance injectors like high impedance ones, just turn them on with full voltage for the whole injection event.

MS2 should not have any trouble directly driving low impedance injectors like the L28ET units. You may be turning them on too long before the PWM voltage reduction. How have you set them up?

The barbed fuel rail can be used with your stock injectors, and there are a fair selection of injectors that will fit it when you upgrade to MS. The stock FPR works great at 300-350 hp. I got an AEM FPR but it will not keep the fuel rail pressurized when the pump is turned off, so it takes some cranking to fire it up on a cold start. You will definitely need a better clutch. You can get a good fuel pump like a bosch or walbro, either will support your hp goals. Other than turbo-specific parts, that's all I can think of you should really need.

Wow, I don't even recognize most of those parts, and I've been wrenching on my Z for 25 years.

These are currently in the Parts for Sale section.... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120585-american-racing-rims/

That's pretty hardcore. Love the 4 tires fastened to the top, the air snorkel and the extra grill to filter out the small animals.

If you have a mis-firing cylinder the first thing I would do is check the plug wires and the distributor cap and rotor. You must have a California car if you have (had) a cat, but since Arizona tests to Federal emissions levels, you should be fine without it. Before you get into the can of worms of troubleshooting the fuel system, make sure the ignition system is timed and completely functional.