SleeperZ

I posted a composite tooth log on MSExtra. Looks like my intermittent in the tach wiring is still there, as I lost sync over 100 times in a 4 minute drive. WTH!?!?! Time to strip out the #$%^@ tach wiring and re-do it.

Sounds great!

I think I am past the mechanical issues now. Took it out for a spin, and it needs some tuning work for sure. It does idle now, timing on 20 BTDC, cam dialed in according to the card, but still very low vacuum. I did a warm dry compression test and it's quite low but even. I got 85-90 across all cylinders where typically I get about 110-115 psi on a stock L28ET at this elevation. I attribute the low compression to the camshaft, I suspect it is not well suited to the low compression turbo engine although it has next to no overlap at 0.050" valve lift. It hesitates and misfires under light load. Of course my plugs are completely sooty, maybe I'm starting to foul them. I posted my configuration and datalog on the MS3 forums -- http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=46951 I'd appreciate any insights, I'm still on a huge learning curve with this.

Just about every time I take it out. I reciprocate as well. A couple months ago I saw a cherry 280Z, totally stock. I complimented the fellow on his nice car and told him about my own rat rod.

Point taken, but I'm just trying to point out the next weakest link, the stub axles, something a solid axle eliminates by definition.

The text you posted on the 8.8 axles, about the halfshafts getting stronger from one model year to the next tells me they are weak too. If you are looking to put even more power and shock into your driveline than you have now, screw the IRS, go get the Ford 9" and a 4 link.

You can re-use the rockers if you re-install the same cam, keep them on the same cam lobes as before, and you have not shimmed the towers. If you don't have the rockers numbered, consider resurfacing them before re-use.

Looks like your R200 is strong enough. Axle upgrade? Seriously though, maybe the Technotoy R230 with upgraded stub axles would be a good upgrade...

I could sell you one, postage across the pond could be a bit pricey though.

Good deal, glad it's running now.

To verify timing, put the crank at TDC and look at the notch through the cam gear on the cam tower. If all you did was change it from 1 to 2, the notch should still be partially lined up with the cam gear, only a bit ahead. If you are off a tooth, the notch will not be lined up at all.

Yes it is. You definitely have to modify the front cover to install it.

Modified the front cover to fit the pump. Chopped out the tip section, then smoothed the inside surface to clear the larger impeller.

I have a similar cam I bought used and just degreed according to the cam card. I've been struggling with getting it to work satisfactorily, and this weekend will be it's last chance. I will report on the results.

I used a drinking straw to find TDC, and later I verified it with a piston stop and a degree wheel. I was off by 2 degrees. Not bad.

I searched and cannot find any further details on installing the pump in a L28 front cover. Is the install of the pump as simple as placing the LD28 gasket up to the timing cover and removing the exposed material down to the bottom of the pump housing? By material, I mean the extended tip of the water guide, as deep as it extends to the back of the pump chamber? No mods to the LD28 pump itself....

Kind of hard to tell what the true duration is unless you give the openings/closings at 0.050" lift, as ramp up on the lobes can vary a lot. I am assuming your duration numbers are based on the cam lift alone, and look typical to what you read, 4k-7k rpm. Virtually identical to the cam I am installing/dialing right now.

I want to know where the spark plugs go, that head is all valves.

It's not yet where I want it. I still have very low vacuum, so I wrote Bill Gude again, and he was kind enough to email back with the cam card. He has made all of his valve lift checks at 0.025", not 0.050", so it's back to the dial indicator to see if I can get this adjusted right.

Injector seals sound unlikely, they just seal the manifold from air leaks -- all the fuel enters the injector body from the rail. Is it possible you accidentally shorted your injector harness? That could blow out the ECU injector driver. The fact that it is an entire bank tells me it's the ECU. What is the resistance of the old injectors? Are they high impedance? If they are, and your new ones are low impedance, you could have burned out the ECU without proper current limiting resistors.

Sounds like an injector driver in the ECU blew out, and is turning on 1 bank of injectors continuously. Unless you have a short in your injector harness.

Movement needs to be accommodated somewhere, and a hump coupler would work well in that location. If it's welded, you will have to allow for even more flexibility at the intercooler.

pleadingbark, I don't like stretching tires, but wow your car looks nice.

I was using a Z31 ECU and Mustang SVO injectors coupled with a modified MAF sensor. Boost set to 16 psi, with an intercooler, of course. I dynoed this setup to a corrected 313hp, 400ft-lb torque, and the AFR was solid at 13:1, leaner than what I would consider now with MegaSquirt. My car is also not light at 2700lbs. The best time was 12.87 @ 110, about a 1.9 60'.

That's the setup I have run for years, and I love it. Not gobs of power, but enough to hit the 12s with a stock engine, and it's very streetable.