SleeperZ

Very nice!

I understand cast pistons will not be reliable over 7000 rpm.

That's not obsessiveness, that's attention to detail, and it will make a difference.

Looking very nice, and excellent numbers!

Not to change the subject, but is everyone using the schematic for wiring the distributor as outlined on the DIYAutotune site, with the white wire (harness green/black) pulled up with 1k ohms to 12V? And are you running the signal into the MS using the Hall/Opto input, not the VR? I am still having an issue with number 5 dropped spark using the Z31 wheel, and I may be looking to get the DIY wheel if I can't get the Z31 to work...the only thing I have found wrong is I wired my MS for the VR input, and the good people on MSExtra are telling me I need to connect it with the Hall/Opto input instead.

I'm using the Hankook RS-3 tires in a Miata size (225/45/15); the tire store had me sign a release for them to mount the tires because I said they were for a car with a higher GVWR than the Miata (my 280Z). They seem to work just fine.

Enough already.

If you can spare the 280ZXT distributor wheel, I am having trouble getting MS going with the Z31 wheel I have in my dizzy. I'd appreciate it if someone would sell me a spare optical wheel, I don't need anything else off the distributor but that. PM me. BTW, if anyone has the timing pointer spacer for a non-turbo, I could use that too.

Wow, nice runs! If you took video, I'd love to see it.

Sounds like you speak from experience..... I haven't been to 130 to verify, but since I installed the airdam I have not felt the front end get light like it did that one time at 120.

I have one, you can have it for shipping cost.

X2 with do not "bleed" the system. It's a self priming system, all the air is purged just by turning on the fuel pump. The air washes into the tank through the pressure regulator and return line.

I'm comitted to the distributor at this point. The DIY wheel is a good option, guaranteed to work if the Z31 will not. This may not be my issue, it is possible I have a bad cap.

I posted it in this thread on MsExtra forums, I can't upload it here. http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=45333&sid=b94092706aebec390ce5adea6fc0bbd7 This is just the falling edge trigger (I can get the other one tonight), but you can see there is one "tall" one I assume is cylinder 1, followed by a short one (cylinder 5). I am presuming if I capture the rising edge trigger this should make all of them the same? Is that what is required for MS to time the ignition events equally for all cylinders? If the opposite edge does not do it, I suppose I should just get the DIY wheel and be done with this BS?

What about the top of the strut tower? I installed a 5 point harness in mine, both shoulder straps come together with a single strap, and I mounted it to the top of the strut tower.

That's one sweet ride. What year is it? It's a 3.6 liter flat 6 right? Gonna get a twin turbo for it?

I'd hate to rely on thread sealer, the yellow teflon tape has always worked for me. I had this issue with the return end of the rail, and a new reducer bushing fixed that end. I think I will either install a pipe nipple and adapt the male thread to my AN fitting, or get a bushing without the hex end. Either should seat deeper into the rail. With regard to the miss I am convincing myself it is MegaSquirt. The firing order for the engine is 1-5-3-6-2-4. It's number 5 that is totally missing (no flashes from the light), which is after cylinder 1 that has the wider slot in the Z31 6 slot distributor wheel. I am thinking somehow a wider slot in the basic trigger input cause the next cylinder to not fire? Basic trigger may assume the slots need to be the same width, and when the edge is delayed, it cancels the firing event? I did try both rising and falling edge in the trigger setup, so I still have doubt.

You'd think they could at least burn biodiesel....

Guy doesn't help his argument with the generalizations and contempt for his own customers....even though he is right to a certain extent. Lowered cars don't have to suck, but I'm sure he gets the worst sort as his customers don't want to pay to fix the issues they cause.

Spent the last two weeks taking care of wiring and other details, like programming the maps into my laptop and verifying the sensors. Got a tach at cranking speed, so I installed the injector fuses and tried firing it up today. Actually fired right away, but couldn't get it to idle it's running so roughly. Looks like I'm missing spark on #5, and it's not the wire (swapped wires with #3). The plug is gapped and seems ok, so perhaps it's as simple as a bad distributor cap. If Megasquirt was pulling the spark because of a bad tach signal, I assume it would find a way to tell me, or would I have to make a datalog and check it? I am using a Z31 wheel in my '82 L28ET distributor, so one of the pulses is wider than the other 5. I did change the tach input from falling edge to rising edge and it made no difference -- cylinder 5 still dead. One other issue. I have a fuel leak on one end of my Pallnet fuel rail. Looks like the 3/8 NPTF tapered threads are cut too deeply and my 3/8 to 1/4 NPT reducer may be bottoming out. I replaced the bushing and got it as tight as I could without tearing anything up, but it still has a slight leak. maybe I'll replace my reducer with a pipe, and change the rest of the hardware to fit my 1/4 NPT to AN -6 fuel line connector. Won't be long now, but I hate these little annoyances....

I'm not sure if I understand exactly what the issue is, but the cam towers and valves are all in the same position across the entire line of L6 engines, so if your rockers don't line up with the cam lobe and the valve, maybe you put the cam in backwards?

SR20DET !!!

I made no modifications at all, in fact I used factory 280Z o-rings on the tip end. Because I've not actually run them yet, someone else may be able to make a claim as to how well they work; the tip design is different, and the depth into the runner may be different too.

I've just installed 440cc/min 7MGTE (Supra) injectors, o-ring type, drive them with MS3.

Make sure you get medical attention as well. If you have issues later, then you have recourse.