SleeperZ

Sounds cool, any plans to modify the steering angles on the S30?

Thanks Sam, that definitely helps. All I have is a regular dumb timing light. But I have already verified TDC, and I have a brand new Powerforce damper -- what sucks about it is the timing indicator is difficult to see being more than an inch away and at a bad angle on the cover. I tried to follow the instructions for MS3 ECU but they are only for full sequential and I had a hard time sorting out how applicable they are for my setup. Are you still triggering on the rising edge? Is that why your tooth angle is so far from the DIY recommended 345 degrees?

I am quoting a post from your thread, and some questions afterwards. Are you still using the rising edge edge trigger? You are using the 280ZXT distributor, correct? The 355 tooth angle is the number you enter in the TunerStudio trigger wizard? I ask as I just got this wheel, and I haven't figured out the trigger reference yet. I still cannot get my engine to idle although the trigger and tooth logs look really good. I drove the car around the block, and I know the ignition advance is not set correctly as it has no acceleration, and I can't build any boost. That's what I get for changing too many things at once, but I know my distributor is generally in the right position as I have not changed that since I was running the Z31 wheel and ECM. I had my trigger reference set to 60 and was getting number one spark timed to the mark, but that 60 number sounds like it's wrong -- I am thinking I have my ignition trigger nearly 180 out... Single coil, L28ET, MS3 (TunerStudio), 12-1 DIY wheel

The Z31 wheel has a cylinder ID, but I had issues getting MS3 to resolve it. I swapped to the 12-1 Nissan wheel and the trigger is very distinct.

I like T5s. I ran 12s for 3 years with mine, now I track it, it's in great shape. Shane ran low 11s with his for many years, it's now my spare. Nice shifter selection and strong.

Way cool project, good luck! I'm looking forward to updates.

If you are changing injector flow rate, the first step is an aftermarket fuel computer.

I've been having trouble with getting MegaSquirt to read the Z31 wheel in my '82 distributor. Everyone here who has used the DIY Nissan wheel has got it to work, so that's the direction I am headed. The turbo dizzy and oil shaft are bolt in to all the L28s, and it's got the wide rotor contact to deal with electronic ignition advance - it's the only way to go if you haven't switched to EDIS or coil on plug. Even still you can use it as a crank sensor for those systems too, and not even bother with spark distribution.

I've never been happy with platinum plugs, either in my Z or my Toyota 22RE. NGK standard plugs are what have always worked for me.

I can see that the Z31 wheel SHOULD give proper timing on the leading edge. Perhaps there is an error in the MS firmware, because when I set my trigger edge in TunerStudio, the trigger log looks the same no matter which edge I use. I get one tall one (the wide slot) followed by one short one. I am so sick of f-ing with this, if the DIY wheel does not work either, I am going to be really pi$$ed. I have checked all of the wires and plugs. Yes they are all resistor type (measured), factory NGK plugs I've never had any trouble with, and the wires are in good shape. I've had bad wires before, and I have invested in GOOD wires. I have wired MS as good as possible. The coil trigger is no where near the high voltage stuff, and the grounds are all together, heavy gauge, and tied right at the engine where the battery ground is attached. I think anyone would be impressed with the wiring - I will show it if I ever get this pig out to the track, I have 4 weeks to get this straight.

Figured out the tach reference, but MS is still dropping sparks, this time on cylinder 3. And my error in setting up the VR input was pointed out on MSExtra forums -- I did not re-adjust the trigger level via R56. So today I rewired back to the VR input with the R56 set properly, and no difference. As far as I can tell, the Z31 wheel is a stupid design -- the wide slot is centered on cylinder 1, not edge aligned. I've wasted enough time with it, it's time to go with what's proven to work, so I am ordering the DIY 12-1 distributor wheel.

Hopefully it can deal with more than the R200, as the selection of diff ratios and LSD should be quite good. I loved it when Scottie put the C5 vette rear subframe in his Z, that turned out well.

If you have fuel rail pressure before you crank, that's not it. My rail pressure drops to zero after I turn off the engine (aftermarket AEM regulator), and my car will start in just a couple of seconds after MS primes the rail when the ignition turns it on. Ignition timing may have more to do with it.

Yes, all visible now, thanks!

If you say so...that's some crazy dough.

It's be nice if you could make your other pictures visible.

Sounds amazing, good luck with the swapping!

That's good to know. I'm getting remarkably little feedback or intelligent discussion on the MSExtra forums. Opto is working for me too, but I still need to ensure I can set my distributor and ignition advance correctly before I get the car back on the road. Sorry if I jacked the thread.

I have updated my thread on the MSExtra forums and posted a tooth log. I don't really understand why all the instruction on tach input says use the VR input, but tribal knowledge is the opposite. From what I can see, all the edge triggers are happening at regular intervals, so I assume the edge is properly set up and the 6 wheel slots are being read at equal intervals. The waves in the tooth log are me trying to keep up the rpm with the throttle because it won't idle yet, there is too much spark advance. I appreciate any additional insight (thanks Dan for the suggestion on TunerStudio, I will try that tonight and see if I can get this beast idling properly).

I could be wrong, but since the 15/16" master was only used with discs front and rear, you shouldn't need to modify it at all.

Changed the tach input to opto, based on recommendation from MSExtra forums. The build instructions clearly sayy to use the VR input for nearly all tach inputs, but now I've changed it I have all my sparks. Timing is way off, 20 degrees advance indicated in TunerStudio is more like 40 degrees. I've run out of room turning the distributor. Calibrating the timing is not intuitive, and I've seen no instructions. The distributor gear has not changed since I ran it last with the old fuel management, and the advance was fine with that, so retarding a tooth does not seem like a viable solution. Tomorrow's another day.

Did you build your PCB? Given the build instructions, I don't know how anyone would know to jumper that as the tach input. Every sensor listed is recommended to use the VR input.

Well, my answer is I overthought the circuits. MS calls the it the "hall/opto" input because it is optically isolated. I looked at both schematics when I was building the kit (MS3, v3.0), simulated the VR input and found it simulated perfectly. So I used it. I cannot explain why it does not pick up the edge of the dizzy wheel very well, it should. From my experience, optocouplers are somewhat slow, so I thought why use the optical wheel back into another optical device. I am re-jumpering the board tonight, so I will post the results in my build thread. Edit: BTW, the instructions for building the V3.0 look like this: V3.0 board - VR Input with pullup for hall sensors, optical sensors or points There is no option given to hook up the opto input, and everyone on MSExtra forums swears its the way to do it, even though no one can say why. I've simulated both now, and they both should work.

Keep the S30, but keep in mind that would be the majority response on this site. Since you are asking, it sounds to me like you really want to keep the S30. ;)

That is as nice as it gets, I love it!