SleeperZ

Don't strip it! That red turbo looks boss. Something Satan would drive

I suspect an LSD will bust your $500 budget. Better weld up the diff.

Thanks, that's a help. I can crimp bullets on a regular resistor, and plug it right in.

I know, old old thread back from the dead. But I am currently digging into the archives in preparation for Megasquirting my L28ET, and I was wiring my ignition this weekend. The 280Z has a resistor in series with the tachometer signal from the coil (-), and mine is missing. What is the value of that resistor? Does anyone have one they can spare?

What kind of racing will you be doing?

Total a Z because of a folded quarter panel? That's because the car is only worth $500 to an insurance company. I wouldn't even make a claim.

That looks absolutely terrifying! Um, yeah, I think it might be loud too.

Bump, still looking for a pump inlet and timing pointer hardware, although I can keep moving with my build with what I have. I am also looking for a turbo distributor harness connector - my dizzy has the 4 pin weathertight connector, and I sold my L28ET harness to someone who can put it to better use, but I don't want to hack up my distributor connector to hook up to Megasquirt. Any hacked up L28ET harnesses out there that don't need a distributor pigtail? Please?

Just to be perfectly clear, with 6 factory injectors (or any low impedance injector), the MS can drive 3 in each bank directly without current limiting, then apply PWM to keep them on. I'd rather not wire resistors in series with low impedance injectors. MS-3 without the expansion.

I wasn't sure if the rockers had grooved the lobes or not. Try running your fingernail across the lobe tips; if not smooth, you may have excessive wear where the cam needs replacement.

I work as an electrical engineer, and have done lots of shielding work. I haven't ruled out buying the harness, but I will be shielding the dizzy and TPS either way. Maybe the temperature sensors and ignition too. The wideband O2 I presume is already packaged.

I don't understand why the A/F ratio is so awful, or why your tuner cannot deal with SDS, it's a flexible engine management system that should have good control over the fueling. What I'm trying to say is there is no obvious reason why you should have to switch engine management. What you have should be tunable unless it's broken.

I definitely appreciate the comments, especially with regard to the connector wiring. And nice trick with the ignition bypass - I might do that. I am fairly solid with the ignition, at least for now to get it running. The ZXT stock coil and transistor driver can be driven directly by MS-III. On the off chance it doesn't have enough drive current, I can add the transistor to the MS PCB.

My throttle body has a bypass for setting the idle speed, and I have no engine accessories. For cold starting I have a factory fast idle air bypass that uses an electric element instead of coolant to close the bypass when warm. It works ok, and for the track it's all I need. I've heard the innovate LC-1 needs to be powered after the engine starts, so I thought it would be a good thing to have the MS control the power for it, maybe just a timer, or with coolant temperature, not sure... Has anyone implemented that yet? As long as I don't need to de-multiplex anything off the main 37 pin connector, I'm ok with wiring a power relay just for the LC-1.

I've got my engine repaired, and I am now setting it up for a MegaSquirt 3 install to control fuel and spark. I will use this post as my "build thread", and will update with questions and pictures as I progress. But for now I just want to make sure I am getting the right stuff as I need to control costs as much as possible. The engine: L28ET with cam, new damper, turbo distributor, 7MGTE injectors (low Z), stock ignition. Plan to run batch fuel injection and distributed spark (for now). I am also planning on speed density control using Zmanco's baseline tune ported from MS 2, I think the fuel and ignition maps will copy in, we'll see. I will be using GM air and coolant temperature sensors. I have adapted and installed a Hyundai TPS on my Weber 60mm throttle body. My boost controller will not change, it's a Greddy ProfecB that works with the stock wastegate. I also plan to get a wideband O2 controller, probably the LC-1. Initial questions: I am looking to get just this MS 3 kit from DIY. I am good with electrical assembly and soldering. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtiii-wpcb-v30-unassembled-kit-with-black-case-p-419.html Will it do what I need? I don't plan to go distributorless or sequential injection, but I do want it to control my electric radiator fan, fuel pump, and LC-1 wideband. I also do not plan to do anything with active startup and idle control other than factory equipment (it's a track car). I am having trouble finding out the details on exactly what the kit includes. Is there any advantage to getting the trigger wheel for the turbo distributor? I do have a Z31 wheel in it right now. I plan to build my own relay board where the old factory relays lived, in front of the battery, so I think I can run a single harness from the MS 3, and split it out in the engine compartment. Any input is appreciated, please let me know what your experiences and mistakes have been.

Instead of mucking with driveshafts, perhaps the input flanges can be swapped, like on a turbo/LSD R200 swap into a 280Z.

I could say the same thing about any vehicle without a diesel engine. I get 45mpg on 100% biodiesel.

Yes, I drive a New Beetle, and I think the new New Beetle is ugly.

I would like to get another part too. Anyone have a water inlet (off the timing cover) with a heater hose connection without the tap? It may be off a 240Z without a coolant return from the intake manifold. Thanks.

Searched around for the socket required to torque this lil' puppy on, it measures to be either 1-3/8" or 35 mm. Before I buy the impact socket so I have the ability to remove it, is this a metric bolt or SAE?

I got a Powerforce damper installed, and I can't use my old turbo timing indicator. I do have the other version that mounts on the alternator side of the timing cover, but it looks like I need a very long 6mm bolt and a thick spacer. Thanks. Let me know if there are any miscellaneous parts you need, we can trade, if not I will pay shipping plus any inconvenience charges.

Not with a 3.54 and the T5. With the 3.90, it would difficult without bogging, and that 5th gear shift right before the traps is a tough one.

If by "track" you mean the dragstrip, you will get more use out of a 3.54. I've run both, and with the 3.90 I get no boost in 1st and have to shift to 5th before the end of the 1/4. The 3.54 fixed both those issues and I run a faster 60' and ET as a result. On a road track, it probably won't make too much difference, but the higher ratio may keep you in the power band better than the lower. Unlikely you will need your top speed unless you have more than a 1/4 mile straight.

Wow, that's a nice flat, FAT torque curve. It's going to be a total blast on the track!

I've used the non-adjustable Tokikos for years on stock suspension (just Eibach 1" lowered springs), much smoother than KYBs or other low-budget inserts.