SleeperZ

Maybe the Redline ATF is appropriate, but I referenced the Nissan service manual and it calls for 80/90 weight, so I just used the Redline synthetic substitute for that. You might want to look at the shifter 30 ounce is using, or the B&M for the T5, which I use - they both have more offset back than the Hurst, and you will need it unless you have long arms.....5th is still a little hard to hit for me as the shifter location is a bit forward as mounted in the S30.

You might want to state which head you are putting it in, as older head have external lobe oiling, and newer ones are internally oiled. Oiling aside, cockerstar's cam would probably be what you are looking for, if you can't find a factory installed unit in good shape.

That's what I use as well.

Thanks Matt, I'm finding out the answers to my questions, and I'm glad the firmware seems to be extremely flexible to input types. And I finally found the schematic suggestions and other informational pages, and I'm glad to see my grounding ideas are the recommended ones. I'm looking forward to receiving, building and wiring the kit to get this frankenstein monster back alive.

That's got one crazy looking muffler on it.

I have been searching this forum and the Megasquirt forums, and I still don't understand the distributor (camshaft) input to the MS. If I still had the ZXT distributor wheel, I would re-install it, since it has the 6 equal slots. But I have the Z31 wheel in it, and it has one slot wider than the rest. Will this cause timing issues for the MS? If the slot leading edge is the same angle as the rest it might not be a problem, but does anyone have this trigger setup working and can verify there aren't ignition timing issues? Perhaps I could flip the wheel over if the MS tach input uses the falling edge. Any other suggestions?

I got my MS-III kit on order. I've modified my exhaust so the LC-1 sensor will come up through the shifter. It seems like the best mounting location for the MS-III is under the passenger seat, so the O2 wiring should be all there. I understand the body is not suitable for grounding the unit. I am thinking the best place to ground it is on the engine where the battery negative connects. Is that typical? I am not sure the LC-1 should be grounded there, but rather close to the MS itself, so the O2 signal ground does not get the injector and ignition noise. I plan on taking some photos prior to wiring the harness. I've already started with mounting and wiring the relays in the stock location on the right fender. I have pigtails on all my sensors and injectors, just getting ready to run wiring to the relays and the MS.

Which MSA cam do you have?

Wow, nice find. Did it break the bank?

I loved the look from the first time I saw a 240Z. Then when I got into autocrossing in college, I met a fellow with a yellow 240 running a stroker with triple Mikunis in prepared or modified class, and fell in love with the sound and look all over again. As soon as I got a real job, I got my 280Z.

Love it, looks solid.

I agree. I fell in love with the Zcars at an autocross -- a bright yellow 240Z, 3.1 liter, triple Mikunis and 6-1 header, that sound was the siren's song.

Bump for timing hardware, coolant inlet, distributor pigtail......

Mcmaster.com has brass plugs in SAE taper, British taper, and straight threads. Not sure if there is a "Metric" pipe thread as I tapped my manifold to SAE. But maybe the British pipe threads are what the manifold is tapped with?

Yes, 260cc sounds right.

I have re-plumbed my intercooler and installed a type S flange. I found a cheap ($15 on ebay) blow off valve to fit the flange, just to see how bad they can be, and I was not disappointed. It won't hold vacuum, and the valve movement was limited by both a burr in the shaft and the diaphragm. I knew it was a POS when I got it, but it obviously won't even work. Anyone have a good used valve to fit that type S flange? I'm a bit nervous about buying a used unit off eBay as it would probably be a fake, and a new Greddy costs a bit too much, IMO.

Leon, the point of this thread is removing hardware to clean up the look without changing the performance of the vehicle. I've had none of the stuff I listed affect how my car drives, and until last year I had a factory Z31 EFI. On my daily driver, a VW TDI, I do everything I can to maximize fuel economy and make sure it passes emissions tests. On my Z none of that is relevant, I want simple and functional, and that's what I interpret the OP to have as a goal as well.

On a 30 year old car that has no emissions requirements, it certainly DOES NOT have "operational" consequences, and that's why I worded it that way. As a matter of fact, I had those systems deleted on my car even when it did need to meet emissions, and it passed every time.

Deleting the EGR and fuel vapor canister has no operational consequences. A custom fuel rail always makes the engine look cleaner, especially if you re-locate the pressure regulator. Most of the idle control stuff can be removed and compensated with a good air bypass on the throttle body. I've never had AC, so that came off immediately with no need for engine load idle compensation. If you want to go distributor-less for EDIS or COP, you will need an aftermarket EFI. Then if you control fueling with a MAP and temperature sensors, you no longer need a TPS or an air flow meter, making the intake much cleaner. And of course with speed-density you can vent your crankcase with a filter, although I am still routing mine back into the intake to cut down on smoke and smells.

It's a good question considering the eBay picture doesn't show an S130 install. I would certainly hope it would not require any modification if it was specifically fitted to a car.

No kidding, me too! Masterful fitment!

There is drag from the seals and low mass. I've never seen a turbo spin long after spun by hand.

That is a fine machine!

One more thing to keep in mind is the angle of the half shafts. The U-jointed ones stand up well if there is not much angle, like in a factory ride height. Lowered, you'd better change to CVs. I took my car to the strip for 3 years with 400ft-lbs and stock open R200, stock half shafts and original stubs and never broke anything. But I didn't have the best traction off the line although I occasionally pulled 1.9 second 60' times with BFG drag radials.

Yes, it looks terrible, but the radiator support looks intact, so fenders and hood took the brunt of it. Very rebuildable, I love that last picture, low wide 14" or 15" tires look so nice.