FricFrac

Correct - only on the '81. The '82 - '83 dizzy had the optical wheel inside the dizzy. If you pull the CAS of the front of the engine on the frond of the '81 engine don't forget the harmonic balancer that has the VR wheel built into it.....

You just need the pigtail that goes from the main harness in the passenger foot well to the gauge cluster. There is an analog harness and a digital harness. There is also some slight differences with the turbo harness and the tri cluster if you have a boost control, etc as well as some possible issues with the defrost switch (auto/manual). Speedo cable is the same. You will need to remove the dash - it's a pain the first time but it's not as bad as it sounds. While you're in there I use some open cell foam tape to fix all the decayed foam between all the piping for the vents...

First off make sure all your sensors, ground and connectors are in good shape. The AFM is a common problem plug that can cause mayhem. With the stock ECU you won't see a lot of bennefit from porting other than the turbo spooling faster - doubt it would cause problems unless you wreaked something in the process.... most likely a sensor/electrical problem...

You can use the air intake sensor on the AFM to start but getting rid of the AFM and putting in a GM (etc) thermal sensor will get rid of a lot of restriction in your air flow.

You need all the turbo stuff that your NA doesn't normally have. But seriously this isn't the forum to ask to be spoon fed - lots of people with some really good insight here but not putting in any effort researching a topic that has been covered litterally hundreds of times isn't going to put you in their good books. First off do some research and see if you want a high compression turbo setup - the L28E on compression is prone to knocking unless you do something to prevent detonation/pinging. It's doable and you'll get good response but there is a lot to be said on both sides of the fence on this whole topic. The S130 had a turbo option from the factory so it's probably the easiest to swap a stock system into (although you don't have as much room to play around with turbo/exhaust setups as the S30). You can run a stock turbo ECU or even a Z31 or Z32 ECU/MAF for a more modern setup. Take that a level further and get a Nistune setup with the Z31 or Z32 ECU. Personally I would recomend MegaSquirt as your best bang for the buck if you want to squeeze everything you can out of whatever set up you go with by tuning your car.

And SparkFun is a good place as well for Bluetooth modules Hopefully this is the first step to having TS on the Android devices. For now I'm using iDisplay to use my phone as a remote display from my laptop. That way I can mount it on the dash/windshield/gauge cluster and monitor whatever I want through my Android device.

Question about the L28ET injectors. Since they run stock at 35.3 PSI rather than the "standard" 43.5 PSI and they are rated at 259cc - is that at 35.3 PSI? Also would that mean that comparing them to most aftermarket injectors that are rated at 43.4PSI they would actually be 285cc injectors (@43.5PSI)? Also if you are installing 440cc injectors on a stock system they are actually running 402cc @35.3 PSI? So in MS you would need to configure them as 402cc injectors if you are running them on the stock regulator?

True I did think you had an S130 since you were posting in the S130 forum lol

I think you could improve the stock 280ZX a bit with some weather striping to get a better seal on the incoming NACA ducting

...or a turbo timer would give you WAY better results than you could ever squeeze out of convection... assuming you're not using a stock 280ZX turbo since they don't use water cooling....

Take look at the stock vent and how the heat shielding around the brake booster, etc works on the stock 280ZXT - it's actually very well thought out. It blows my mind why duct work on cars its completely overlooked in almost any modified turbo car I've looked at. Some simple ducting will greatly improve cooling. Instead people try and shove as large an intercooler as possible when one half the size with proper ducting will outperform and allow the radiator to still function. I'm a rank amature when it comes to cars but if you use two brain cells at a time and read and research this stuff should be a no brainer... Something to think about with regards to heat wraping. Thermal contraction will be slower AND the difference in temperature from the inside of the turbo to the outside air will also have a smaller difference - those are two things that PREVENT stress. Good point about the moisture as that is the main issue. I would recomend painting with a high temp like Por 20 (good up to 1400F) or something that can take substantial heat at the very least or ceramic coating if you want to shell out for it.

Lol - I'm a rank amature that reads a lot and loves learning. I believe Tony D's response to me regarding modding the manifold was basically it's not that complicatated just do it. I started out exactly the same way as you with the questions but all was forgiven once effort on my behalf was seen. HybridZ is kinda different in some ways than other forums. There is definately a little more intollerance for the questions that have been already answered HOWEVER there is a HUGE amount of knowledge regarding mods to the Z series of cars here and the first offense or two is often overlooked - don't sweat the small stuff Keep us posted on the project - another living Z is worth it all

northernautoparts.com has some great prices on parts. Complete gasket set from ITM for under $100. They also can order in the ITM hypereutectic pistons, rings and wrist pins for around $35 a piece (RY6140STD) including oversized pistons. These seem to be a very good value for the money especially for a street use engine.

Just need to remember that hundreds of people end up here asking silly questions without putting in any real effort (eg search). The people that litterally have put thousands of hours helping people out tend to get easily irrate about people that take advantage of (usually not knowing) of their help. Thus the response you got and why a snippy response isn't appreciated. Now you know and you'll find that due dilligence on your part will typically be responded to with equall effort by the experts. If you search around you'll find that the intake runners are 53% the cross sectional area of the intake runners (http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry630912) Another option. Take whatever manifold you have and port and polish it. Remove the back of the plenum and port and polish the back side as well then weld the back back on again. A die grinder, rasp bit and one inch flapper wheel works great. I used a cut off wheel to open the back of mine up and the guy I had weld the piece back in said the cast alluminum on these manifolds was really easy to work with without a lot of porosity. I de-webbed mine and modified my heat shield to keep the heat out of the manifold. Wrapping the turbo inducer side in heat shielding as well as the log manifold and downpipe will significantly reduce the temperature under the hood.

Easy fix - upgrade to Android lol.

Lol - I got it So is there an updated ETA on the wheels? I was thinking finding some stainless shim stock and sweet talking the guy at the water jet if it's going to be a while....

MSA downpipe doesn't work on the S130 chasis in case the OP tries to purchase and install one....

Nice install. Just curious why you didn't take the air filter through the stock inlet hole and in front of the radiatior instead of sucking hot air from the engine bay?

First off do the suspension. Who cares how much power your car has when it sways to and fro and sucks up bumps like a Caddy. A set of Tokico HP255 is going to give you the best bang for your buck and a decent drop. After that I would go with a turbo swap. A stock turbo setup will give you more than a cone filter, cams, and headers and exhaust on an NA and should be cheaper. Once you have a turbo setup it's easy to squeeze more power out of it. Since you don't have money/job you probably have time. Start digging in and reading. There is a mind boggling amount of information on these cars - including how to fix your cold start issue....

Getting a mandrel bent exhaust for the 280ZXT is a tough business. JeffP made a handful but they were too much bother. I've approached a few companies and they just weren't interested. I have yet to figure out how to get one done other than custom. It's too bad because you can get a decent 2.5" one from MSA but nothing for the turbos... not even a downpipe...

Are you trying to trigger your current sensing tach (stock on the earlier S30) with a voltage sensing tach output (S130)? This is how I got mine working on my 240Z with a MSD 6AL 6AL manual - info is on page 8 not 10....

Ok I know the Z31 uses a zirconia O2 sensor which from what I can tell is the 0-1V sensor. If that's the case does that mean that the S130 is a Titania sensor? If it's a Titania sensor does that mean that it's resistive? If it's resistive will it (a stock S130 ECU) work with a narrow band output from an LC1 wideband 02 system that puts out a 0-1V signal? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor[/url">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor I'm assuming that the Titania uses a pull up to 1V resistor to get a reference voltage across the Titania narrow band sensor for a 1V output. If that's the case could you remove the pull up resistor from the ECU and use the simulated 1V narrow band signal from the ECU?

Re #2 - althought the S13-15 came with the KA and SR four bangers the RB is a COMMON swap in the 240SX. There is a lot of info and it's fairly "straight forward" to swap in.... and re #3 - I've seen 240SX that they have tried to make look like a classic Z but never a classic Z trying to look like a 240SX.....

Agreed! I used my battery operatated one to unbolt my cam and it worked like a charm. Bought it as a kit with another drill and it sat in the drawer forever. Didn't realize what I had....

The ignitor transistor is expensive. Just do the four wire HEI install instead....