FricFrac

Copper tubing is for the A/C - it's stock. Yes the sensors are run on white wires. Actually those white wires are twisted pairs inside a shielded jacket and the jackets are numbered. Even if they weren't numbers you could simply put core markers with the name of the sensor on it but it's really unecessary since the cable simply plugs into the Mega Squirt on one end. Since the cable is formed and lies in place of the stock harness the connectors can only reach the sensor they plug into. The only ones that may be slightly different are the IAT depending on where it is located on your vehicle but its more than likely that it's the only one that has that style of connector. The power plugs into the stock fuseable link and the fuel pump, etc plugs into the stock body harness. It's really plug and play - that's the whole idea.

ARP head studs - 202-4206 $150

Oh yea and the analog dash harness did have a few different versions depending on your tri cluster guages and if you had auto or manual defrost....

2a - A Canadian analog 1979-1983 - we never had the silly 85MPH rule. They are KMH/MPH gauges.... I'm sure there are other foreign ones as well but the Canadian ones might be easier to get....

I'll second the dry ice trick. I used the block though - never thought of smashing it up. Rubber mallet and a slotted screw driver and it comes up in huge chunks. I don't want to be a downer but did you think of getting a shell from somewhere? You realize rust is like an iceberg in these cars.....

Cuervo the "group buy" is still on. Check the thread - you just need to contact Kim directly and tell him exactly what you want and he'll verify if they are in stock and where to send the money order. I had mine shipped to Seattle and sent by boat up to Victoria. Easy peasy.

I parted out an '81 with T-Tops, but had manual windows, manual climate control, 5sp and no A/C. I kept the plastic shroud that goes where the A/C evaporator should have been after the blower. It was a Canadian car. It's the only one I've seen without A/C.

For the MegaSquirt - You need to figure out how you are going to trigger your setup and what type of ignition system you want to run. If you are using a dizzy/single coil, wasted spark, COP/CNP, etc. - TPS is worth the minor effort to install. - Wideband O2 is recomended. For your FI conversion you bascially just need a EFI plenum that's populated as you stated above - injectors, FPR, fuel rail are all there. If you are going turbo you'll probably go to bigger injectors, different rail for o-ring injectors and a different FPR. Something to thing about instead of buying stuff twice. Turbo is the same thing - yes you need the manifold/turbo but are you going stock? If not will you need an external wastegate, BOV, intercooler, piping, etc, etc, etc. If you go stock you'll need at minimum a j-pipe but if you are going through all this effort it would be best to have some sort of intercooler setup.

The stock NA dizzy doesn't give the ECU enough information as to where the piston is in the four stroke cycles. It relies partially on the switching of the rotor and distribution of the spark through the cap. What you need is a crank angle sensor with a TDC reference or cam angle sensor. The '81 280ZX turbo had a CAS (ala crank style) on the front of the engine with a reluctor style wheel bolted to the back of the crank pully/dampner. The '82/'83 has an optical encoder wheel in the dizzy that has 360 slots on one ring and 6 on the second ring. MS doesn't know how to deal with the 360 slots (yet - future firmwares may support it) and there is no TDC reference (since it's a crank and the ECU doesn't if its on the suck/squeeze or bang/blow cycle whereas from the cam you would get all 720 degrees of information suck/squeeze/bang/blow all together). It might sound a little confusing but basically all you need is an '82/'83 dizzy and a diyautotune L28 optical encoder wheel. I would probably upgrade the MS to a MS3 and MS3X if you want to go sequential with your spark and at the same time you can go sequential with the fuel as well...

Yes I'm running MS3. I'm just waiting on my optical wheel and wiring in for the CNP setup. I've tested the CNP in test mode but need the optical wheel to run it... LSx coils make a nice hot spark

Should work - IIRC the 280ZX is 54mm - the 50mm would be for the KA dizzy, etc.

A large cap isn't good for filtering noise. I'm assuming you are using a stiffening cap for car audio? Those are typically for large current draw for transients. You want a 1uF or 0.1uF cap. I recomend a 630V poly cap.

You might want to look into an '82 or '83 turbo dizzy. Then you can just slap in whatever wheel you want - easy peasy. IIRC MS2 will support wasted COP/CNP. I'm running MS3 and MS3X for full distributorless and/or sequential injection.... soon.... hopefully....

Talk to me bro - where in Canada are you? You said you picked the car up in Seattle so I'm guessing the Lower Mainland? If so I'm just over in Victoria. I've got my MS3 up and running and I've tested my setup for distributorless ignition for spark control - just waiting on my diyautotune optical encoder wheel to actually run it.

It's probably in the FSM at www.xenons130.com under the reference section.

Right I understand that but the outlet of a stock T3 is 2 1/8" so you would have a sharp edge from 2 1/8" to 2 7/8" or whatever your 3" inside diameter is. As far as I know a sharp step like that will cause significant turbulence which isn't good for getting rid of the exhaust at the exit of the turbo. Also the stock T3 doesn't use a V-Band flange. Also for the stock flange there is barely room to bolt it on to a 2 1/2" downpipe. I suppose if you were using a stock flange you could bump a 3" in where the bolts come out to allow it to be bolted on. Did your T3/T4 come with the v-band or did you need to modify it as well? Thanks for the pictures. Those are great! Do you have any pics of the downpipe back for the rest of your 3" exhaust?

Perfect. Don't under estimate the stock heat shields though. They do provide a significant thermal barrier. You can get a 3" but it's a challenge on a 280ZX.... here's an idea though....

Instead of making it look good while you've got it off make it work better. The stock runners are a major restriction - almost half of the area of the intake valve. Port them out and at least get rid of the casting ridges. A 1" 60 grit flapper wheel on a die grinder works well - even better if you have an extension. I recomend using some heat barrier on the heat shield if you have all that off. DEI makes a nice heat barrier blanket with mylar on one side to help reflect the heat back that you can put on the heat shield. A 3" downpipe isn't going to mate up to the stock turbo - the outlet is less than 2.5" - you'll have to taper/flare/grind, etc to get up to 3" smoothly

Check the AFM connector as well. CHTS is another important grief causing sensor. Get the FSM and measure your sensors to the ECU - simple resistance checks mostly. FSM is at www.xenons130.com

.... and the Z31 kits are now available. Any feedback from the Z31 owners would be greatly appreciated so we can tweek this to they way they want it.

Anything is possible... I guess you could reduce the fuel pressure so that the turbo injectors would deliver the equivalent fuel as the NA injectors. I'm just wondering why you would want to do that?

That would be great. If you can get some detailed pictures as well I'll see if I can source replacement pins for the connector itself.

I made a wiring harness repair kit for some of the guys on this and a couple of other Z car forums. The thread is over here. I had ordered in enough for 25 kits and they were all gone within a few weeks. I've had a few requests for Z31 harnesses so I bought some more connectors as well as the MAF sensor six pin connector. So what I've got so far for the kit is the MAF, TPS and 6 EV1 injector connectors. Is there any other connector you guys would like to have with the kit? I know the S130 uses three extra EV1 connectors for the Cold start/CHTS, etc but I'm not sure what additional connectors you would need for the Z31 so any input is appreciated!

"A" grind found in some P79 (NA) heads is a common "upgrade" for the P90 (Turbo) head...

You just need to download the FSM - those are the manuals for your car and they are already divided into sections. You'll have different vacuum lines for different systems so for the Emissions stuff you'll go to the EC section, etc, etc. You can use the air temp sensor in the AFM but I would get rid of that resistance - toss the AFM and put a piece of aluminum 3" piping in it's place then add an IAT before the air goes into the runners on the plenum or before the throttle body. Use the CHTS as it's more accurate than the sensors on the thermostat housing. I'm not using any of the idle adjustment valves on the top of the plenum - there is a lot of piping up there you can get rid of. You might want to use an idle control valve of some sort so you could use the ports on the stock manifold if you decide to go that route.